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I have been reading posts regarding clearance work for 383/396 blocks and am wondering when block filler is required. Also, there was a reference to oil pans and the need to dimple the oil pan or use a Canton race pan. Can anyone explain why the oil pan should be dimpled? Does a Canton race pan have the same ground clearance as a stock pan? Any interference issues with the Canton oil pan and oil filter, starter, etc.?
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
The Canton pan fits very well and has no less clearance than stock. It really has caused no problems with my Stainless Works headers and I'd think this would be the case with most if not all of the better C4 headers. I even had adequate room to run 2 #10 Aeroquip hoses up over the left side kick-out from the special oil filter housing forward to the right side of the DeWitts radiator in which there is a built-in engine oil cooler. Oil filter and starter clearance offered no problems to speak of either. I even still had plenty of room for a heat shield on the starter. I never tried a stock pan on my 3.80" crank stroker. But there were no interference problems from the rods bolts with the Canton pan. This may or may not be the case with all rods, I can only speak for mine. They are 6" Eagle forged H-beam lightweights w/ ARP bolts.
A crank that I have is 3.875" with 6" H-beam rods. The ARP capscrew rod bolts just catch the stock oil pan.
I had a canton road race oil pan and it had plenty of clearance.
I was curious to see how the stock pan would fit, so I mocked it up.
Only 4 of the rod bolts would catch the lip of the pan.
As a project, I am going to try to notch the stock pan. Doesn't look easy.
The blok-fill I added to strengthen the block down there.
It was the short fill and it's level comes up to about where the piston skirts are(at BDC).
I anticipate no temperature increases.