C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Brake issues

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Old May 11, 2007 | 10:30 PM
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Default Brake issues

I changed my rotors and pads on my 94 corvette. I did not unhook the calipers. I did however loosen the bleeder so that I could get the piston pushed back in for the new pads. I didnt think that this would be an issue because I was going to flush the system with new fluid. I have bleed the brakes twice and it still doesn't seem right. The pedal is firm, but when I take it around the block it doesn't seem like is stops a quick as before. I have to be firm on the pedal to stop the car. Any ideas? I am using a hand vac pump to get the air out. I also have read many posts and have ordered the speed bleeders. The part that gets me is that the pedal is firm.
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Old May 11, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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Until you "bed" or "burnish" the pads and rotors, the braking effectiveness will be poor. Take the car up to 40/45 MPH and do 6 to 10 high pedal pressure stops to about 10 MPH, in rapid succesion. The brakes should start to smell, its OK. Let the brakes cool after you are done, BEFORE you actually come to a complete stop. This will cause the pad and rotor to wear parallel to each other, but more importantly, cause some of the pad material to EVENLY transfer to the rotor surface. Hope this helps, Mark PS:You may need to repeat this process again depending upon the pad material.
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Old May 11, 2007 | 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Zabman
Until you "bed" or "burnish" the pads and rotors, the braking effectiveness will be poor. Take the car up to 40/45 MPH and do 6 to 10 high pedal pressure stops to about 10 MPH, in rapid succesion. The brakes should start to smell, its OK. Let the brakes cool after you are done, BEFORE you actually come to a complete stop. This will cause the pad and rotor to wear parallel to each other, but more importantly, cause some of the pad material to EVENLY transfer to the rotor surface. Hope this helps, Mark PS:You may need to repeat this process again depending upon the pad material.
Thanks,
I will try this tomorrow. I have heard this before, but couldn't believe it can be this poor at first.
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Old May 12, 2007 | 12:51 AM
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hi guys, i have an 89 and went through this over a year ago. i put on new pads from auto zone and turned my back roators and took it for a drive. LOOK OUT... i almost had to put my foot out to drag. i took them off and put on very good pads from kragen. little better. the roators are polished and i have to drive carefull.i dont know what the answer is but i think it is going to be the pads.i know someone out there has the right answer. if you find it be sure and post it.
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Old May 12, 2007 | 01:14 AM
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Burnishing the pads is very important. the shop manual says to do about 30 times from 60 to 10. After about 10 or 15 times you can start to tell the difference. Don't come to a complete stop while doing this, just slow down.
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Old May 12, 2007 | 11:10 AM
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Usually the pad comes with bedding instructions to, some are different.
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Old May 12, 2007 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Arkybill
Burnishing the pads is very important. the shop manual says to do about 30 times from 60 to 10. After about 10 or 15 times you can start to tell the difference. Don't come to a complete stop while doing this, just slow down.
Went out this morning and did this 6 times. Definatly a big difference. the only place I can do this is on the interstate and then jump off at the next exit, hit brakes, get back on the interstate and repeat. Got tired of driving in circles, will do it a few more times later. Need to find me a road with no traffic............... in south FL this is impossible.
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