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The Old Step Backwards! Wrong C Beam!

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Old May 15, 2007 | 10:39 PM
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Default The Old Step Backwards! Wrong C Beam!

Well I finally found some time tonight to continue with my D44 installation. I figured with a good night tonight, I'd be done the next chance I got to work on her again.

I already have the rear hanging in the car and changed the speedo gear the last time out.

This time I installed the U joints on rhe driveshaft and installed it.

I put the bolts in the C beam at the rear, and they were a hole off at the tranny. So I removed the bolts from the rear and started the one bolt thru the tranny...

See how far this hole is off!!!
I tried prying for a bit before I came to the realization that the idiot (oops I mean guy) who sold me the rear, sold me the wrong C beam and probably the wrong driveshaft.

Now the driveshaft needs to come out, then the rear in order to remove the f*?n C beam!!!

Tomorow I get to talk to Idiot and try to solve this crap...

Anyhow, heres some more pics of the project. Sorry for the low res cell phone...


Muddy Fenders

The D36

Rebuilt Knuckle

The Old Bearings

Those Lovely Torx Bolts

Thank God For Lifts
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Old May 15, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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that's a scary image!!!

One helluva project, I will say that!

Good luck. It sucks the guy sold you the wrong parts... I hope the D44 is as advertized!!!!
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Old May 15, 2007 | 11:01 PM
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I have a spare c-beam for a d44 I was going to put up for sale soon, let me know if your interested.
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Old May 15, 2007 | 11:03 PM
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BTW- that looks like my project minus the lift
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Old May 15, 2007 | 11:09 PM
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The rear ends and the C-beams are a matched set. How could the guy sell you a D44 rear and a D36 beam? Is he a dismantler or something?
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Old May 15, 2007 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by _twisted_
I have a spare c-beam for a d44 I was going to put up for sale soon, let me know if your interested.

Let me talk to Idiot tomorrow and then I'll get back to you...
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Old May 15, 2007 | 11:12 PM
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I wont do anything with it till I hear from you
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Old May 15, 2007 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Is he a dismantler or something?
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Old May 15, 2007 | 11:35 PM
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That just sucks Hope this guy makes good on it.

BTW - _twisted_ is a great person to deal with if you go that route.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by _twisted_
I wont do anything with it till I hear from you
If severe-1 does not need the beam please send me a PM with the price shipped to 33426, thanks.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 11:10 AM
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Spoke to Idiot this morning, and he said he'll exchange it for me.

He also said that he can't figure out how it happened since the yoke on the stick trans is much larger than the auto making it easy to recognise.

Anyhow..

I'm going to send back my original C beam and driveshaft that I pulled off my car just to save the time of removing everything to get this ball rolling forwards again...

What are the odds of me removing the new u-joints and reinstalling them in the shorter driveshaft?
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Old May 16, 2007 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by severe-1
What are the odds of me removing the new u-joints and reinstalling them in the shorter driveshaft?
It won't be a problem. Just try to not break the cap seals when pressing them back out. The plastic seals on the spicers are crap, IMO.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 01:20 PM
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I've had the C-beam out of my car at least a dozen times for one reason or another. The pic you posted of how far off the holes are does not look that far off. I don't know why it does it but mine has been off by more than that some times and It's lined right up some times. If you find out the parts are the right ones I know you can raise and lower the back of the engine to change how the holes line up.
Dave
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Old May 16, 2007 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by opel
I've had the C-beam out of my car at least a dozen times for one reason or another. The pic you posted of how far off the holes are does not look that far off. I don't know why it does it but mine has been off by more than that some times and It's lined right up some times.
You might make sure you REALLY have the wrong parts before you invest in needless freight charges. Lay the new conversion parts on the floor next to your old parts. Center to center of the u joints should be just a hair under an inch different. The same with the distance between the pair of bolt holes for the C beam. Also, you shouldn't have to remove your differential to remove the C beam.

RACE ON!!!
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Old May 16, 2007 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
You might make sure you REALLY have the wrong parts before you invest in needless freight charges. Lay the new conversion parts on the floor next to your old parts. Center to center of the u joints should be just a hair under an inch different. The same with the distance between the pair of bolt holes for the C beam. Also, you shouldn't have to remove your differential to remove the C beam.

RACE ON!!!
Not to hijack the thread but if you have some tips for removing the beam with the differential installed I'm all ears
I tried when removing the A4 extension housing to replace my speedometer driven gear and I couldn't get it out. I managed to pry it over far enough to remove the extension housing but couldn't remove the beam. Thanks for any suggestions.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 05:41 PM
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I placed the driveshafts next to each other before I started cleaning things up and replacing the U-joints. The new shaft was about an 1/8 of an inch shorter than my original. I remember thinking "what a waste" to replace it for an 1/8 of an inch!

Why I didn't check the C beam is beyond me. I did place my original up against the new one instaled in the car now, and the bolts slid right thru from one to the other.

Believe me I raised and lowered the motor/tranny many times as well as loosen the bolts that hang the batwing to the frame thinking that my new poly bushings were holding me forward. After driving a tapered punch in with a sledge hammer and still not getting it to line up, a light bulb finally went on in my head.

I have the parts ready for shipping, and wouldn't you know we threw out a box yesterday that was big enough to ship them? Guess I'll wait till tomorow...
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Old May 16, 2007 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by toptechx6
Not to hijack the thread but if you have some tips for removing the beam with the differential installed I'm all ears
I tried when removing the A4 extension housing to replace my speedometer driven gear and I couldn't get it out. I managed to pry it over far enough to remove the extension housing but couldn't remove the beam. Thanks for any suggestions.
I have to admit, honestly, I have never removed the C beam. Maybe I am wrong. It just seemed to me that it should be relatively easy. I stand corrected. I apologize for the false info and the false alarm.

RACE ON!!!
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Old May 16, 2007 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by severe-1
I placed the driveshafts next to each other before I started cleaning things up and replacing the U-joints. The new shaft was about an 1/8 of an inch shorter than my original. I remember thinking "what a waste" to replace it for an 1/8 of an inch!
For an eighth of an inch, I WOULDN'T change it. Some people have got by perfectly fine with the real 15/16" difference. Where did you do your comparing to get that 1/8"? The location of the end of the slip yoke has little meaning. Compare at the u joint centers. They should be that 15/16" if they are different. I would call anything within an eighth inch, the correct part, regardless of what transmission it was behind.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 07:08 PM
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Not a problem, I agree the damned thing seems like it should come out but I wasn't able to do it, thought you might have have a magic wand in your toolbox I never bought
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Old May 16, 2007 | 07:19 PM
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I wish! I can't believe Aamco is dropping the rear end to ovehaul a transmission. I wonder what the trans shops do? Pete K?

RACE ON!!!
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