Oil Pump Intermediate Rod Question
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Oil Pump Intermediate Rod Question
I'm still trying to get a handle on the LT1/4 engine.
I found that it uses a short stub shaft which indexes with the camshaft to operate the oil pump, but does it also use an intermediate rod/shaft -like the L98, BBs?
If it does, is there something 'Special' about it - length, diameter, etc? I did a Google search but came up empty.
Thanks for any help.
Jake
I found that it uses a short stub shaft which indexes with the camshaft to operate the oil pump, but does it also use an intermediate rod/shaft -like the L98, BBs?
If it does, is there something 'Special' about it - length, diameter, etc? I did a Google search but came up empty.
Thanks for any help.
Jake
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
Would appear same as regular SBC.
The housing you refer to supports a stub shaft with the cam drive gear in the same position as usual.
http://shbox.com/ci/oil_pump_drive.jpg
http://shbox.com/ci/ci270-1.jpg
Then a intermediate shaft runs the pump
http://shbox.com/1/op_shaft.jpg
From the Golen site;
do not forget to install the oil pump drive connector, this connects the oil pump to the cam gear
The housing you refer to supports a stub shaft with the cam drive gear in the same position as usual.
http://shbox.com/ci/oil_pump_drive.jpg
http://shbox.com/ci/ci270-1.jpg
Then a intermediate shaft runs the pump
http://shbox.com/1/op_shaft.jpg
From the Golen site;
do not forget to install the oil pump drive connector, this connects the oil pump to the cam gear
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 65,811
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
It is. The pump drive on the LTx engines is configured in this respect just like the lower half of the conventional SBC distributor. Jake, pick up a hardened shaft from Melling, Moroso or anyone else who makes them. They come with a steel coupler on them that replaces the OEM plastic type. These are very inexpensive and cheap insurance. I think I paid about $8 for my Melling one.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Thanks for the info. Yet another part I have to add to my shopping list.
I'll include it in the order I make next week for valve springs, retainers, locks, adjustable pushrod length checker, etc.
Jake
I'll include it in the order I make next week for valve springs, retainers, locks, adjustable pushrod length checker, etc.
Jake
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 65,811
Likes: 71
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
And while I'm not trying to deplete your bank account further, how old is your pump drive? I've removed more than one of these from LTx engines that were cracked. I use a special retainer on top of mine that was sold by More Performance, but they're out of business now. It's called an "oil pressure saver" and it keeps the drive in place should the mounting ear break. I've never seen them offered anywhere else. But regardless, if your pump drive is original I'd highly recommend replacing it. The composite material it's body is made from gets brittle with age. If someone makes an upgraded one out of all metal, I'd like to buy one. When reinstalling it, use Loctite on the bolt and torque only to 14 lbs.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Let me try to clear the air so that we're all on the same page.
I'm building a LT1 stroker engine and my goal is NOT to canabalize the parts from my exisiting 350 LT1. So, as much as I can, I'm buying new parts for the new engine, or, failing that, parts from other Forum members who have for sale the parts I need.
When I pull my existing engine from my 96 Vette, I plan it to remain in tact, without having removed the intake manifold and/or the oil pan. See what I mean?
In that regard, I will not be re-using my oil pump, pick up or intermediate rod. I plan to use only the sensors from my current 350 engine.
I have already bought and installed a new oil pump (Melling 155HV) and pickup, and, just today, I bought and installed a new intermediate shaft/rod (Melling 155E).
I also bought a new LT4 oil pan, new rear main seal housing, new camshaft retention plate, new timing chain assembly, not T/C cover, etc., etc.
Now I'm in the process opf tracking down a new water pump and new hub/balancer.
Thanks for all the input.
Jake
I'm building a LT1 stroker engine and my goal is NOT to canabalize the parts from my exisiting 350 LT1. So, as much as I can, I'm buying new parts for the new engine, or, failing that, parts from other Forum members who have for sale the parts I need.
When I pull my existing engine from my 96 Vette, I plan it to remain in tact, without having removed the intake manifold and/or the oil pan. See what I mean?
In that regard, I will not be re-using my oil pump, pick up or intermediate rod. I plan to use only the sensors from my current 350 engine.
I have already bought and installed a new oil pump (Melling 155HV) and pickup, and, just today, I bought and installed a new intermediate shaft/rod (Melling 155E).
I also bought a new LT4 oil pan, new rear main seal housing, new camshaft retention plate, new timing chain assembly, not T/C cover, etc., etc.
Now I'm in the process opf tracking down a new water pump and new hub/balancer.
Thanks for all the input.
Jake
