C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Intake Manifold Leak

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Old May 23, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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Default Intake Manifold Leak

How do you test to see if you have a leak in the intake on an L98?
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Old May 23, 2007 | 10:05 PM
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pressure test....add dye and see where it comes out
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Old May 23, 2007 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by vinnies87
pressure test....add dye and see where it comes out
please explain
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Old May 23, 2007 | 10:11 PM
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If you meant to say a vacuum leak then a propane torch with the gas on (do not light ) with the car running. It will raise the rpms if you find a leak. Just move it around the suspected area.

Last edited by TOMS93; May 23, 2007 at 10:15 PM.
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Old May 23, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by TOMS93
If you meant to say a vacuum leak then a propane torch with the gas on (do not light ) with the car running. It will raise the rpms if you find leak. Just move it around the suspected area.
I dont have a propane torch, and I have absolutely no idea where it might be leaking. I dont see any fluids and dont hear any hissing, but the dye test sounds like it might work.
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Old May 23, 2007 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Ever21
I dont have a propane torch, and I have absolutely no idea where it might be leaking. I dont see any fluids and dont hear any hissing, but the dye test sounds like it might work.
Sorry, how do you know if you have a leak then? The dye is for coolant. Do you suspect a leak in your cooling system?
I'm not a mind reader here, give us some details....
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Old May 23, 2007 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TOMS93
Sorry, how do you know if you have a leak then? The dye is for coolant. Do you suspect a leak in your cooling system?
I'm not a mind reader here, give us some details....
LOL, I know your not a mind reader. I just put new heads on it roughly a month ago. I followed all the directions for putting the intake manifold, runners, and plenum back on. Torque settings are correct. It ran fine for about 2 weeks and then I got a leak in the fuel rail where the cold start valve connects. I replaced the O-ring and all is well again, runs just fine. The next day, it runs like crap, idle is "hunting" and will eventually stall out unless you keep giving it gas, even then it stalls out sometimes. When I put it in drive, it stumbles on acceleration, but is good once I get going. I cant even make it out of the driveway now though.

I've checked all the obvious like vacuum lines, fuel lines, and electrical connections. I've also checked the timing, cap and rotor, coil, IAC, MAF, 02 sensor, and fuel pressure. Their all good. I mean it HAS to be a leak somewhere in the intake right?
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Old May 23, 2007 | 10:50 PM
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If it's hunting then the IAC is doing it's job trying to correct an A/F issue.
Go buy a torch. Every garage should have one any way. Home Depot has them for like $18. It beats trying to fart in those tight areas . If you have a vacuum leak, it will help you find it.

Other than that it could also be a O2 sensor, but I see you tested that too.


Last edited by TOMS93; May 23, 2007 at 11:15 PM.
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Old May 23, 2007 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by TOMS93
If it's hunting then the IAC is doing it's job trying to correct an A/F issue.
Go buy a torch. Every garage should have one any way. Home Depot has the for like $18. It beats trying to fart in those tight areas . If you have a vacuum leak, it will help you find it.

Other than that it could also be a O2 sensor, but I see you tested that too.

Well about the O2 sensor, the sensor itself is fine, but i'm not so sure about the wiring. It was lying on the exhaust pipe when my dad was getting on the gas, put it this way, the wire was smoking, lol. I looked at the wire and didnt see any damage, but you know it could be. So if I unplug the O2 sensor, would that test it? lol, sorry i'm not good with electrical stuff.
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Old May 23, 2007 | 11:14 PM
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This might help with the O2 test.
http://www.forparts.com/o-21.htm

I usually bench test it in a vice and a good quality Fluke multi meter. But the in car method is a more accurate test, INMO. Taking it out allows me to inspect it.
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Old May 23, 2007 | 11:55 PM
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If u have small small leak than its waaay hard to detect that, find out whose mechanic shop has a smoke detector machine, they will remove ur MAF and in pace they will block this, and than from brake booster hose mahine will through smoke, if u have any leak smoke will come out from there, 1/2 an hr job probably 20-30 bucs at the most he might charge u, in this way u can find vacum leaks too.
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Old May 24, 2007 | 09:07 AM
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If I do have a leak, that means taking the whole manifold off again right? Cant just put RTV around the edge? I know i'm lazy but if it works then I dont care.
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Old May 24, 2007 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 4Ever21
LOL, I know your not a mind reader. I just put new heads on it roughly a month ago. I followed all the directions for putting the intake manifold, runners, and plenum back on. Torque settings are correct. It ran fine for about 2 weeks and then I got a leak in the fuel rail where the cold start valve connects. I replaced the O-ring and all is well again, runs just fine. The next day, it runs like crap, idle is "hunting" and will eventually stall out unless you keep giving it gas, even then it stalls out sometimes. When I put it in drive, it stumbles on acceleration, but is good once I get going. I cant even make it out of the driveway now though.

I've checked all the obvious like vacuum lines, fuel lines, and electrical connections. I've also checked the timing, cap and rotor, coil, IAC, MAF, 02 sensor, and fuel pressure. Their all good. I mean it HAS to be a leak somewhere in the intake right?

This happens immediately on startup? Well then you can rule out 02.

Your first leak, it was a fuel leak then eh? Maybe you have another one you cannot see. Get a small fuel pressure gauge, about $25 and put it on the rail. See if you leak down after you turn the key off.

Next, check for vac leaks. Forget the propane. Instead, get a $3 can of throttle body cleaner. Hose each bank, and every component down a little at a time. If you find a vac leak, you WILL hear it. the car will stumble, race, etc.

Check your valve lash. I don't like the way any book describes how to set valve lash. Especially older tired motors with roller lifters. You should do a running valve adjustment. Get it HOT, back each rockr off until it ticks (thats the lash), Then tighten until it stops ticking and you FEEL a little preload, then go 1/4 turn. (1/4 turn on a 3/8" x 16 stud = about .050" preload).

Check your plugs! How do they look? Oil fouled? Water? Fuel? Lean? (white and blistered).

-- Joe
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Old May 24, 2007 | 09:36 AM
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I was looking for a vaccum leak last year, I had my dad blow smoke into the intake since he smokes. It worked pretty well.
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Old May 24, 2007 | 09:59 AM
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+1 on the smoke technique.

Get some tubing ($3 for a 10' roll from Lowes/ Home Depot), some duct tape and a smoker.

Remove the snorkle from the MAF to the throttle body and put the tube in the throttle body and tape it up real good with the duct tape.

Have the smoker exhale into the tube for a few minutes. It will take a while for the engine to fill up with smoke.

Once the engine is full any vacuum leakes will apear as smoke will come out with each exhale.

Use a flashlight and exhale speed to pinpoint the leak.
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Old May 24, 2007 | 10:25 AM
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Aye good write up. I did that during the day and had to look sideways across the engine because of the sun. Having it darker with a light would make it much quicker. It was easy to do. I had a small leak under the plenum, the MAT sensor, this was a long time ago now. The smoke even came out downward there, I had to watch as he exhaled into the tube though, it was such a small leak.
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Old May 24, 2007 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by anesthes
This happens immediately on startup? Well then you can rule out 02.

Your first leak, it was a fuel leak then eh? Maybe you have another one you cannot see. Get a small fuel pressure gauge, about $25 and put it on the rail. See if you leak down after you turn the key off.

Next, check for vac leaks. Forget the propane. Instead, get a $3 can of throttle body cleaner. Hose each bank, and every component down a little at a time. If you find a vac leak, you WILL hear it. the car will stumble, race, etc.

Check your valve lash. I don't like the way any book describes how to set valve lash. Especially older tired motors with roller lifters. You should do a running valve adjustment. Get it HOT, back each rockr off until it ticks (thats the lash), Then tighten until it stops ticking and you FEEL a little preload, then go 1/4 turn. (1/4 turn on a 3/8" x 16 stud = about .050" preload).

Check your plugs! How do they look? Oil fouled? Water? Fuel? Lean? (white and blistered).

-- Joe
Nothing wrong with propane . I like the smoke idea better though. It sounds a lot safer than propane or throttle body cleaner .
I doubt it's his valve lash since it worked good for 2 weeks. Unless little tiny gremlin's with wrenches came in after midnight and did their own tweaking.

I agree with 02 as well, however he didn't give us that info. So I offered that as a possibility.
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Old May 24, 2007 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by TOMS93
Nothing wrong with propane . I like the smoke idea better though. It sounds a lot safer than propane or throttle body cleaner .
I doubt it's his valve lash since it worked good for 2 weeks. Unless little tiny gremlin's with wrenches came in after midnight and did their own tweaking.
gremlins? blah. Are they polylocks or locknuts? if they are poly locks did he tighten the allen enough? did he set the valves too tight and burn out the seats and the guides?

I've seen all sorts of scenarios. I don't rule anything out anymore.

-- Joe
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Old May 24, 2007 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by anesthes
gremlins? blah. Are they polylocks or locknuts? if they are poly locks did he tighten the allen enough? did he set the valves too tight and burn out the seats and the guides?

I've seen all sorts of scenarios. I don't rule anything out anymore.

-- Joe
Good point .
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Old May 24, 2007 | 02:57 PM
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yeah, especially if he has only removed the heads, intake, and the like only once, but if ALL was well BEFORE the backyard fix, (the way i do em anywayz) i would bet on the intake vacume leak!!
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