Hey guy's,

Summer is approaching Florida - and my AC is still broken. I want to convert the system over to r134. Currently, nothing works lol. The system barely blows any air whatsoever. The plug on the compressor is broken so cooling is impossible. I know for sure that the compressor must be replaced as the plug can't be repaired. What all will I need to purchase to make this swap complete.

The lines look rough, so they are on the list along with a new compressor. Anything else I will need?

Thank you!

 

New accumulator, orifice tube, seal kit, something to flush the evaporator and condenser to get out all the old R-12 compatible oil, R-134a compatible oil (PAG or Ester. PAG 150 recommended by GM) a vacuum pump to evacuate the system. Also a gauge set is handy to facilitate and monitor the vacuum and recharge process.

I'm sure I'm forgetting something but that's a start. I'm sure more will chime in with additional info shortly.

Good Luck!

 

Join up and do some reading and posting questions over here.

http://www.autoacforum.com/categories.cfm?catid=2

I'd stick with the R-12 unless you just want to save a few bucks.
If you want to be able to legally purchase R-12 refrigerant you'll have to get certified.
Go to http://macsw.org/certification.php
and get certified for $15. Online, open book test! Print out your certification online when you pass and they also mail you a wallet card and wall size certificate.

Shops do still recharge and auto parts stores carry R-12 refrigerant. Most auto parts stores carry the 12 or 14 oz. small cans and sometimes the 30# cylinders.
Your best bet if you do it yourself is find the R-12 on eBay. Most of the time you can get it for $20-$25 can max.
Full retail at Auto Zone and O'Riley's auto parts here in Houston is $36-$38 for a 12 oz. can.
Just don't use any Freeze 12 or mixture/add in type refrigerants. They are not SNAP approved by the EPA even though they are sold all over the place. The Freeze 12 is a mixture and is NOT good for your system.

Read up on the details from here:
http://www.macsw.org/pdf/CertmanualENG.pdf

From the
Certification Training Manual
Refrigerant Recycling & Service Procedures
For Automotive Air Conditioning Technicians
*approved by US EPA for technician training requirements under section 609 of the Clean Air Act.

Download the manual here:
http://www.macsw.org/pdf/CertmanualENG.pdf

Page 26 of manual quote:

System Changes
Changes were required for HFC-134a systems to assure performance equal to systems using CFC-12.
Changes include new hose and seal materials which are compatible with the new refrigerant and lubricant. This includes new hose construction to reduce hose leakage, and a new desiccant material in the accumulator or receiver/dryer for reduction of moisture level in the system.
The most noticeable change, however, is the increased condenser capacity, or increased air flow, to reduce system pressures at low speed operation and city traffic conditions. In general, condenser performance has been increased by approximately 30%, which results in comparable performance for HFC-134a systems as experienced in CFC-12 systems.

http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/609/609.html

And for the best auto AC forum:

http://www.autoacforum.com/categories.cfm?catid=2




Good luck with your project!

 

Don't convert a system designed for R-12 over to R-134a. It will never work as well as what it was designed for and R-12 is not THAT difficult to get ahold of.

 

Not if it's properly converted. And r-134a is simple to get a hold of.

 

Quote from my post above:
"The most noticeable change, however, is the increased condenser capacity, or increased air flow, to reduce system pressures at low speed operation and city traffic conditions. In general, condenser performance has been increased by approximately 30%, which results in comparable performance for HFC-134a systems as experienced in CFC-12 systems."

So if you do change the dryer, compressor-one designed for 134a with a high pressure cutoff installed on it, proper oil, change out the orifice tube, hoses, then drain/flush evaporator core and find yourself a later model condenser that is designed for R134a operation you might be good.

It is just better to stick with the OEM/GM put in the car and what the whole system was designed around. R-12 refrigerant.