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I've been wanting long tube headers for my '95 Vette for a while and finally found some. The problem I'm having is there is only one fitting for a O2 senser and that's it. I don't know how important everything else is. If they need hooked up or not. The second problem is these headers is going to extend past the cats. It's not my intention to run without cats but space is limited. Has anyone else had long tube headers installed on their car? If so, please help. Thanks!
There are a ton of post on headers, installation, etc on the forum... use the search function on top, click advanced, and in the search section, click archive post and go for it... you'll find a ton of post... enjoy and they will answer your questions...
On a 95 you only need two 02 sensors, the third can be eliminated (I bought an 02 eliminator for my install)
I used bullet cats on mine they were small enough to easily fit in the tunnel.
TJ Wong used to have some really cool exhuast pics.
MIke
Yeah the O2s on the 95 are heated, so just whack the fittings down at the final collectors, one on each side. There is 2 on the right hand side, but as ABoatGuy said you only need the primary.
Here is a couple pics, im not sure if they will show you much though.
You can just see the cats on mine in these 3 pics:
Not sure what youll get out of this pic, but ill post it for you anyway (my headers are Tri-Y):
Its back there now!!! The headers were custom made for this car before i got it, none of the off the shelf long tubes will fit it that i know of cause its right hand drive, so the steering column shaft goes down the right hand side, and as you know, the engine is slightly offset to the right, space is limited (tons of room on the left now though).
Is that a small piece of wood holding up your car in the final pic?
OP, like they said there's a lot of information here about header installs, however it's very scattered out and there's a lot of little things that are involved that people don't think to mention. If you're doing all the work yourself you'll run into this.
I'm in the middle of a header install myself. I bought Hooker 2151 longtubes and had an exhaust shop weld the bung on the primary shut and put two new bungs put on the collectors. Getting the exhaust off with the car on ramps has tested my patience more than anything I have ever done with a car. There are bolts that are not only practically welded in place due to the exhaust heat, but that you can't even reach with tools. Some of that can be solved by loosening the exhaust and repositioning it, or by removing non-exhaust parts to get them out of the way... but other bolts are a complete mystery as to how the engineers reached them and how you're intended to get them out. The bolts holding the cats and pipe to the cat hangers are a fine example of this.
My exhaust is dropped now but unfortunately I did not give myself enough ground clearance with the ramps to feed the new headers in from the bottom. Next step for me is to jack the car up off the ramps and onto some taller jack stands.
Last edited by LouisvilleLT4; May 28, 2007 at 12:07 PM.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by LouisvilleLT4
OP, like they said there's a lot of information here about header installs, however it's very scattered out and there's a lot of little things that are involved that people don't think to mention. If you're doing all the work yourself you'll run into this.
I'm in the middle of a header install myself. I bought Hooker 2151 longtubes and had an exhaust shop weld the bung on the primary shut and put two new bungs put on the collectors. Getting the exhaust off with the car on ramps has tested my patience more than anything I have ever done with a car. There are bolts that are not only practically welded in place due to the exhaust heat, but that you can't even reach with tools. Some of that can be solved by loosening the exhaust and repositioning it, or by removing non-exhaust parts to get them out of the way... but other bolts are a complete mystery as to how the engineers reached them and how you're intended to get them out. The bolts holding the cats and pipe to the cat hangers are a fine example of this.
That stock LT1/4 stuff can be a major PITA to remove, particularly when rusted. Trust me it's even worse on an automatic car. I cheated and used the old "Blue Flame Wrench" since I have one. Thankfully that crap is all gone forever.
To plug an unneeded O2 hole, simply use a replacement-type 18 x 1.50mm oil pan plug. Available from most any parts store for 2 or 3 bucks. It fits and seals perfectly. You can also use an old style, large based 18mm spark plug, but that would look a little ghetto....