C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Check Your Intake Manifold Bolts!!!

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Old May 29, 2007 | 10:46 AM
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Default Check Your Intake Manifold Bolts!!!

While doing a bit of work on the car, just for the hell of it I decided to check the manifold bolts. The car is stock and has never been touched in that area. I have an oil leak issue there. They were all loose. Everyone of them were only torqued to 10 lbs or less. The only one I couldn't really get to was the one under the throttle connection on the TB. Any advice on that one? Hopefully this will at least slow the leak. I would suggest that anyone whose car is stock and hasn't been touched to check also.

The work I was doing was replacing the coil and ICM. Hoping that will fix the stumble and hesitation on acceleration and cutting out in the upper rpms when hot. Will report back on that. Drove the car twice since and no problem yet. It seemed to pull a lot smoother. I'll see this afternoon when the temp is around 90. I've got my fingers crossed.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 10:55 AM
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I worked on a 95 LT1 TA last summer that had the same problem. A few of the bolts you could spin by hand.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 12:11 PM
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i had a nice pume of oil smoke fill my cabin the other day when redlining it......turned out a few valve cover bolts were loose.

it's good practice to check all these from time to time.....
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Old May 29, 2007 | 12:21 PM
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Yeah, I think I'm going to make a checklist and start going through and checking nuts, bolts, and screws.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by vetteboy95
While doing a bit of work on the car, just for the hell of it I decided to check the manifold bolts. The car is stock and has never been touched in that area. I have an oil leak issue there. They were all loose. Everyone of them were only torqued to 10 lbs or less. The only one I couldn't really get to was the one under the throttle connection on the TB. Any advice on that one? Hopefully this will at least slow the leak. I would suggest that anyone whose car is stock and hasn't been touched to check also.

The work I was doing was replacing the coil and ICM. Hoping that will fix the stumble and hesitation on acceleration and cutting out in the upper rpms when hot. Will report back on that. Drove the car twice since and no problem yet. It seemed to pull a lot smoother. I'll see this afternoon when the temp is around 90. I've got my fingers crossed.
If I remember, is the intake bolts torque spec something like 19 ft/lbs ?

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Old May 29, 2007 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeC4
If I remember, is the intake bolts torque spec something like 19 ft/lbs ?

I think it's 35. I thought I read that at least. I hope I read that. Can someone say for sure?
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Old May 29, 2007 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by vetteboy95
I think it's 35. I thought I read that at least. I hope I read that. Can someone say for sure?

35 ftlbs is correct. Actually supposed to tighten in two passes 6ftlbs first pass and 35 for the final pass.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by vetteboy95
I think it's 35. I thought I read that at least. I hope I read that. Can someone say for sure?
Thanks vetteboy95 ! I must have been thinking about the torque on the bolt that screws my head in my ****!

I am going to check my '93 this weekend!

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Old May 29, 2007 | 02:34 PM
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Edelbrock says 11 ftlbs for its hi-flo base (like Accel's)
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../3000/3817.pdf

35 does seem like overkill for bolts of that size and for this function.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeC4
I am going to check my '93 this weekend!

I am too! Good info
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Old May 29, 2007 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Chatman
35 does seem like overkill for bolts of that size and for this function.
.........and 11 lb/ft seems underkill to me.

35 lb/ft is what the book calls for, and what I do.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by STL94LT1
.........and 11 lb/ft seems underkill to me.

35 lb/ft is what the book calls for, and what I do.
I dug up this old archived post from "FD2BLK" when I had a '95 :

The specs are below, it should be done in two passes and you need to do it the proper sequence. The crude drawing below is the sequence

-----12---11---4---1---5---6
Back--------------------------Front of intake/Motor
-----10----9---3---2---7---8


Intake Manifold Bolt/Stud FIRST PASS
6 Ft Lbs

Intake Manifold Bolt/Stud SECOND PASS
35
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Old May 29, 2007 | 04:13 PM
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Holly stealthram also says 11 ft/lbs
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/.../199R10343.pdf

Interesting.

I would like to see someone with more expertise than I have to step in and explain why we might see differences of this magnitude and the consequences of following the different instructions might be.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeC4
Thanks vetteboy95 ! I must have been thinking about the torque on the bolt that screws my head in my ****!

I am going to check my '93 this weekend!

That's a good one.

When you've checked them let us know what you find.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Chatman
Holly stealthram also says 11 ft/lbs
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/.../199R10343.pdf

Interesting.

I would like to see someone with more expertise than I have to step in and explain why we might see differences of this magnitude and the consequences of following the different instructions might be.
I don't have a technical answer since I didn't design the LT1 manifold. The difference could because the instructions you have are pertaining to the L98 and not the LT1. The LT1 has different heads too.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 06:58 PM
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Nope. Too easy. The 86 FSM says 25-45 ft.lbs.

A problem I have with people "checking" is that the bolts should be Loctited and some will have thread sealer. What happens to these when the owner gives them a turn?
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Old May 29, 2007 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Chatman
Nope. Too easy. The 86 FSM says 25-45 ft.lbs.

A problem I have with people "checking" is that the bolts should be Loctited and some will have thread sealer. What happens to these when the owner gives them a turn?
If the intake manifold bolts were locktit'ed by previous owner(s), then I would prefer to break the Locktite bond and torque to spec, as these bolts should NOT have been locktite'd in the first place. Locktite would not allow for re-torqueing after running engine a few days to adjust for RTV/Gasket settling.

...BTW, what's up with the large variance of 25-45lbs for the '86 !! That's seems crazy to me....


Last edited by MikeC4; May 29, 2007 at 07:55 PM.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 07:52 PM
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I can tell you right now 10 ft lbs. is very bad. I'm in the process of redoing my bolts as we speak. The first time I couldnt get one of the bolts to get more than 10 ft. lbs. on it cause it was stripped. Needless to say, I blew my intake gasket. The intake bolts are supposed to be between 20 and 25 ft. lbs.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 08:28 PM
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My GM Factory Service Manual says to use Loctite 1052624 or equivalent. Can't determine exactly what current Loctite product is equivalent but my CF search suggested a thread locker. Holly says use 242 Blue.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Chatman
My GM Factory Service Manual says to use Loctite 1052624 or equivalent. Can't determine exactly what current Loctite product is equivalent but my CF search suggested a thread locker. Holly says use 242 Blue.
Or you can go el cheapo and just use black RTV and it works just as good.
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