The information about milling a 'flat pad' for the bolts is definitely what I needed to hear. It will help simplify things.

I'm not really concerned about the HP as much as the MPG because I plan on using it as a daily driver. I can probably get a flywheel from a junk yard pretty cheap.

Getting it up and running is the top priority. Making it 'go fast' will come later. Probably much later.

Thanks.

 

Good info. Thanks.

 

I used a 95 block in my 383 build for my 84. The flexplate will need to be changed for a newer style for a one piece main seal. 84s had two piece main seals. The bolt pattern is different. I purchased a Scat flexplate with 153 teeth at a local speed shop. The cost was $40. Other than that it was a standard SBC swap. I also used Trickflow heads so I did not need to contend with the manifold issue. Any L98 headers will work - just tell whoever you have a 85-86 Vette and you should be good to go. If you tell them you have a 84 they will freak out. Ask me how I know.

 

on the 'freak out'.

I just got some more info on the engine from the guy I'm buying it from.

It seems that for my $200, I am getting the long block, intake, exhaust, alternator, starter, water pump,flex plate and belts.

All on an engine with only 31,000 miles!

He had wrecked the truck and pulled the engine with everything still attached!

I'm picking it up sunday afternoon. Can't wait.

 

It isn't so much the engine as it is the application. All C4s have a 153 tooth flywheel or flexplate. The 168 tooth wheels were used in heavy duty applications, like trucks and with heavier transmissions like the TH400. Due to the applications for the LT engines, I doubt any were ever produced with 168 tooth 'wheels, just the 153. Of course a Gen I 350 with a one piece rear seal (1986 and up) would work. The 153 and 168 'wheels take different starters. The 153 toother takes the straight across bolt pattern and the 168 toother takes the staggered bolt pattern starter mount.

RACE ON!!!

 

sounds like you got a good deal there might be worth your while to shop around for a diff motor that will be more suited to what you want and then basically selling the $200 motor for what ya need to get the better suited one. try checking local reputable shops maybe ya can swing getting your long block and heads rebuilt with the $ you made from selling the motor maybe a tad more. if thats the motor you want to go with fine im just pointing out other possabilities or options. either way that motor sounds like its worth $200 bucks all day long. youll have an easy time making some $ on that deal.

 

oh yeah keystring i am also from ny. are you far from utica?

 

All you will want to use is the long block, the block, heads, pan, valve covers, and timing cover. If the truck engine has V belt driven accessories, you will want to use your 1984 water pump. The V belt driven pump turns in the opposite direction of the serpentine belt driven pump. Use all the accessories and accessory brackets from the Corvette engine. Also, check the diameter of the truck engine damper. If it is too large you will want to reuse your old one to prevent interference with the frame cross member.

There is a ton of misleading, erroneous, and just plain wrong "help" in this thread. You have been given lots to worry about where there is no worry. Forget flat top or dished pistons and compression ratios. Don't worry about exhaust manifolds. Your old manifolds will fit the new engine and the car. If both your car and the truck are autos, and the truck flexplate has 153 teeth, the truck flexplate is the answer. Otherwise some research will have to be done. We will need to know manual or auto for the 'wheels and the tooth count from the truck unit if both have the same type of trans. The 1994 truck engine is NOT a vortec, so none of the vortec differences apply here. Reread my first post and the one from Tom400CFI. Follow his advice on using your manifold with the later heads. My two posts and Tom400CFI are all you need to read for your swap. Many of the other post have you concerned about things that don't apply here. This is a relatively simple swap.

RACE ON!!!

 

From a "swap" point of view, it does not get any easier than this.

 

If you want to use the truck engine, elongate the bolt holes in the manifold, and keep going. the throttle body cam will work fine.
IMHO,
all you need to do really, is take your 84 engine out, disassemble it, and buy a rebuild kit from Northern Autoparts .com, and fix your old engine. The engine kit will set you back less than $200, and they have higher cost options that you can use, like cam changes, and so forth.
They even throw in the pistons. I bought one of their kits, and the only problem was I didn't need the pistons, and have been dreaming up engine combos to use them in.
You will have to address worn heads, but if all you want to do is daily driver stuff, a local machineshop can do a simple 3 angle valve job on them, or you can find some low cost heads somewhere
If you use your original engine, when it comes time to either restore it, or sell it, you can be one step ahead of the process in retaining all of your car's original parts, and maintain it's value to either a collector, or your satisfaction that you have a numbers matching car.

 

I live in Canandaigua. (The town. Not the City)

 

I'll know better what I'm dealing with when I pick the engine up on sunday.

From what I understand, the truck was an automatic, and so is my vette. I'm hoping the flex plate is the correct one. If not, then I'll shop around for the right one.

I had already figured on using most of the parts, that are still good, from the vette. The alternator on the vette either needs a rebuild or needs to be replaced because it was 'stuck' when I first got it. I freed it up, but I just know the insides are probably rusted to heck.

I did manage to get the starter working again by taking it out and cleaning it up, but I just don't trust it. I'll probably use the one that comes with the truck motor.

I figured I probably needed to change the water pump. I found a lot of useful information here on the forum and did a lot of reading because I wanted to be as familiar with the vette as I could before I got into it.

I plan on using Tom400cfi's suggestion and have the intake milled flat where the center bolts go.

Once I get the old motor out I'm going 'test fit' it in the vette and then I'll start swapping whatever I need.

The reason I'm going this route is because (1) the old engine has 122,000 miles on it and I don't know the condition of the valves,cam, lifters, bearing etc. And (2) for $200 I can save myself a lot of money for now and still have a running car.

Like I said earlier, I really don't have a lot money and I've always wanted a vette. When this one came up cheap, I just jumped on it blindly.

There is still the concern of the transmission as well because it was 'water logged' too. I'm hoping I can flush it out and get it working again.

I really appreciate the information that you and Tom400cfi have given me, as well as the suggestions from others. It helped me to make the decision to buy the engine.

I know it's going to be a long process to get it going again, but I can do all the work myself.

Thanks again.

 

I plan on keeping the original motor, and if finances permit, rebuild it and if I sell the vette (which I doubt) offer it to the new buyer for free.

At my age (which I'm not going to tell. ) this is probably going to be a one time shot for me.

Luckily I have a son-in-law that's a fairly competent mechanic and he's offered to help.

 

Best sentence in this whole thread! I love it, and I feel that I can relate.

There is the first time you know you'll own a 'Vette. There is the day you finally get one....then there is all the time in between.

For me, the "time in between" was about 30 day-dream filled years.

 

If the engine comes with a flexplate and it has 153 teeth, it IS the right one. That also means that the starter, if included will work, and interchange with the '84, also.


If the truck alternator will fit the '84 brackets, you will be able to use it.


If the truck had V belt driven accessories (I think it did) then you will HAVE to use the '84 water pump as explained above.


You can touch it up with a hand grinder. There is no need to have it milled.


No need for a "test fit". They are two peas in a pod. It will be easier to swap parts from one to the other while on a stand.




When you get finished, you will wonder what it was that you were worried about. If I can help along the way, just shout.

RACE ON!!!

 

I fell in love with vettes when I got to drive a 1964 when I was sixteen.

That was in 1966...Ooops! (hope I didn't give my age away)

 

Thanks again for all the helpful information. It sure eases my mind and gets me enthused about the outcome.

I may not get everything fixed on the car this summer, but at least I'll be headed in the right direction. But, who knows. There's still at least 4 months, if you count September, to get it done.

Gotta run to the bank. Sunday is just two days away and I want to have the cash on hand!

 

F'n kids!

RACE ON!!!

 

Thanks for that info. I only wish the Forum has notified me of your response because, as you might now guess, I ordered the wrong one!

Now I have t return it and order a 153 toother.

Thanks again,

Jake

 

Well, I picked up the engine on Sunday.

Today is tuesday, and it's going back.

Turns out the engine is a 305 NOT a 350.

The person I bought it from said it came from his buddy's truck and the emblems on the truck said 5.7 liter. Well, in my search for a gasket set I ran across a website talking about 'casting numbers'.

Soooo, I went out and looked and came up with the number 14102058.

I looked it up, and sure enough, it's a 305 made between the years 1987 and 1991. Now I don't know if his 'buddy' had his engine replaced on his '94 truck. But if he did, and it originally was a 350, the I'd say he may have been taken to the cleaners by a rather shady shop.

Either that. Or he lied! But, I'll give him the benefit of the doubt.

Either way. I called and told him I was bringing the engine back and wanted a refund. He said ok. So maybe it was an honest mistake.

At any rate. I learned something I didn't know before about 'casting numbers' on chevy blocks.

Now I'm debating just pulling my engine and going over it anyway, or try to find another 'deal'.

I guess the old adage 'If it seems too good to be true, it probably is' should have been my first clue.

BTW. I even talked him down to $160!!