Clutch activation switch bypass?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: Indianapolis IN
Clutch activation switch bypass?
Well, you know how you have to fully bottom out the clutch pedal to get the ignition to fire?
There is a switch up in the dash by the pivot mechanism and it has two black wires that comes down to a connection with a mating connector that has a Yellow and Green/White (?) wires,,
is there any harm electrically in bypassing this or joining the two wires?
I added a clutch pedal travel stop and the pedal baaarely makes the switch, thus allowing the ignition to work.
I'm no electrical guru, and I don't want to burn,fry melt any wires or blow any fuses.
There is a switch up in the dash by the pivot mechanism and it has two black wires that comes down to a connection with a mating connector that has a Yellow and Green/White (?) wires,,
is there any harm electrically in bypassing this or joining the two wires?
I added a clutch pedal travel stop and the pedal baaarely makes the switch, thus allowing the ignition to work.
I'm no electrical guru, and I don't want to burn,fry melt any wires or blow any fuses.
Last edited by LD85; Jun 3, 2007 at 08:31 PM. Reason: Wire color
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: Indianapolis IN
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Fountain Colorado
Did you push the switch into the holder all the way after installing your limiter. I am by no means implying you are not that intelligent. But you did not state if you pushed it in all the way. Good luck and save the wave.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: Indianapolis IN
I installed a clutch stroke travel to limit the stroke to the floor board
The switch I am talking about is the switch that acknowledges that the fully has been fully depressed to the floor board.
It does not have a holder ,,, but it does have a linkage connected to an arm that is attached to it.
The switch in the holder that I think you are talking about at the top/retracted is OK.
Thread Starter
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From: Indianapolis IN
Yeah, the slip on TOB can travel too far and the piston will travel past the O-ring seal and blow all the fluid out.
The McLeod will not do this but the Howe slip on will as well as the RAM will do this according to someone that stated this on a post on my last thread.
The McLeod will not do this but the Howe slip on will as well as the RAM will do this according to someone that stated this on a post on my last thread.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Bypassing is fine, It just passes 12V to the antitheft relay and on to the starter. I just was wondering why the need to limit clutch movement (and if I should consider it)
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: Indianapolis IN
The Howe Racing TOB that I bought has a piston that needs to travel at least .375-.412 to release the PP,, 3/* travel is what everyone claims is the magic number for PP / disc release,, so if you factor in free play of .050 - .100 for disc wear an clearance, then you need to achieve .412 + freeplay.
The Howe TOB I bought has a maximum stroke of .569", and the Wilwood Clutch Master that I have is 3/4 bore and 1.400 stroke so it will force enuff fluid into the TOB so that the piston travels past the o-ring seal and the fluid drains out,,,, UNLESS I use the pedal travel stop.
If ther ws more clearnce
Team Owner
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
In other words you spent a bunch of money on a clutch master cylinder that is too big. This will increase your pedal effort too.
I never bought the McLeod tob. Everyone was saying to use it, because they were regirgitating someone else's post that turned out to be incomplete/wrong. And Red's apparent alzheimer's regarding my tech questions didn't help either.
Also don't forget that when you get clutch wear, you'll need that TOB to start thinner and end thinner than it does now. So make sure it's got a little freeplay to account for that.
My 85 clutch PP spring went 2.0" behind the clutch surface with it all bolted up, and I expect this would vary out of the box.
Red said the Dodge dakota pressure plate was the same setup but was 1.6" from clutch to PP spring. But I really didn't want to buy 2 clutch sets in addition to his $400 bearing.
I never bought the McLeod tob. Everyone was saying to use it, because they were regirgitating someone else's post that turned out to be incomplete/wrong. And Red's apparent alzheimer's regarding my tech questions didn't help either.
Also don't forget that when you get clutch wear, you'll need that TOB to start thinner and end thinner than it does now. So make sure it's got a little freeplay to account for that.
My 85 clutch PP spring went 2.0" behind the clutch surface with it all bolted up, and I expect this would vary out of the box.
Red said the Dodge dakota pressure plate was the same setup but was 1.6" from clutch to PP spring. But I really didn't want to buy 2 clutch sets in addition to his $400 bearing.
Thread Starter
Race Director
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From: Indianapolis IN
But if you got to the Howe web site you'll find that 3/4" bore is what they specify.
The bad part is that the stock Master would not push the TOB far enuff, the stock master would only go .400" and that was border line and would not accommodate the free play.
The new pedal is more stiff for sure, but this is the best my clutch has felt since it was the 4+3 setup
485-500 HP is not fazing this setup at all
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2006
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Hi All,
I have an '87 with a 4+3. and trying to diagnose a no-crank issue.
Can anyone tell me exactly where the switch that acknowledges a fully depressed clutch pedal is located? A picture would be excellent but a good description would also do the job. Also what's the purpose of the switch that acknowledges a fully released clutch? Lastly anyone know where I can get a full wiring schematic for this car?
Cheers
I have an '87 with a 4+3. and trying to diagnose a no-crank issue.
Can anyone tell me exactly where the switch that acknowledges a fully depressed clutch pedal is located? A picture would be excellent but a good description would also do the job. Also what's the purpose of the switch that acknowledges a fully released clutch? Lastly anyone know where I can get a full wiring schematic for this car?
Cheers
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by crashnburninc87
Hi All,
Lastly anyone know where I can get a full wiring schematic for this car?
Cheers
Lastly anyone know where I can get a full wiring schematic for this car?
Cheers
RACE ON!!!
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Follow the clutch pedal arm up and you'll see it way up there.
The purpose is to prevent people from starting the car while in gear with the clutch engaged. This can burn up the starter or move the car unexpectedly and cause a collision.
The purpose is to prevent people from starting the car while in gear with the clutch engaged. This can burn up the starter or move the car unexpectedly and cause a collision.
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2006
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"Follow the clutch pedal arm up and you'll see it way up there.
The purpose is to prevent people from starting the car while in gear with the clutch engaged. This can burn up the starter or move the car unexpectedly and cause a collision."
Are you refering to the switch that acknowledges a fully released clutch pedal? or the switch the acknowledges a fully depressed clutch pedal? Or is there actually only one switch?
I can clearly see the one that acknowledges a fully released clutch pedal but not the one that acknowledges a fully depressed clutch pedal if there even is one.
The purpose is to prevent people from starting the car while in gear with the clutch engaged. This can burn up the starter or move the car unexpectedly and cause a collision."
Are you refering to the switch that acknowledges a fully released clutch pedal? or the switch the acknowledges a fully depressed clutch pedal? Or is there actually only one switch?
I can clearly see the one that acknowledges a fully released clutch pedal but not the one that acknowledges a fully depressed clutch pedal if there even is one.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: Indianapolis IN
[/QUOTE]I can clearly see the one that acknowledges a fully released clutch pedal but not the one that acknowledges a fully depressed clutch pedal if there even is one.[/QUOTE]
It is up at the top of the clutch pedal arm with two large black wires coming off it, waay up there
It is up at the top of the clutch pedal arm with two large black wires coming off it, waay up there
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Fully released pedal = clutch engaged.
Fully depressed pedal = clutch disengaged.
The clutch safety switch closes when the pedal is fully depressed, unless your name is LD85.
There is no other switch.
Fully depressed pedal = clutch disengaged.
The clutch safety switch closes when the pedal is fully depressed, unless your name is LD85.
There is no other switch.
Race Director
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by crashnburninc87
Are you refering to the switch that acknowledges a fully released clutch pedal? or the switch the acknowledges a fully depressed clutch pedal? Or is there actually only one switch?
RACE ON!!!
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: Indianapolis IN
When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch is disengaged. One normally doesn't refer to releasing the pedal, however, when one releases the pedal it is said they are engaging the clutch. The clutch is released when the pedal is depressed. There is one pedal and one switch. When the clutch pedal is fully depressed and the clutch is released, disengaged, the starter interlock switch is closed to enable starter operation. There is no "switch that acknowledges a fully released clutch pedal". The clutch interlock switch is the manual transmission's equivalent to the neutral safety switch used on automatics.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
