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Uss GM replacement parts for such items. They are slightly more than the cheap stuff if you buy them at a discount from GM Parts Direct or Superior Chevy.
Follow-up question. Is there such a thing as an electronic spark control module? Or would it be called something else? My Service engine soon light comes on and my mechanic tells me I need an ignition module and an electronic spark control module.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by carlton_fritz
Follow-up question. Is there such a thing as an electronic spark control module? Or would it be called something else? My Service engine soon light comes on and my mechanic tells me I need an ignition module and an electronic spark control module.
Yes, there is such a thing as an ESC module. I don't remember the model year it got up-integrated into the ECM (soldered onto the memcal), rather than mounted on the right side fenderwell, but I believe yours is. (Knowledgeable types are encouraged to correct me if I am wrong.)
I don't understand your vehicle problem. The ignition module and ESC module are two distinctly different pieces, with no electrical connections between them. These are both very robust pieces, and the chances of both of them failing simultaneously is near zero. Is your mechanic trying to "shotgun" the repair, or does he know for certain that these parts are defective? It's your money, but it makes no sense to me.
Yes, there is such a thing as an ESC module. I don't remember the model year it got up-integrated into the ECM (soldered onto the memcal), rather than mounted on the right side fenderwell, but I believe yours is. (Knowledgeable types are encouraged to correct me if I am wrong.)
I don't understand your vehicle problem. The ignition module and ESC module are two distinctly different pieces, with no electrical connections between them. These are both very robust pieces, and the chances of both of them failing simultaneously is near zero. Is your mechanic trying to "shotgun" the repair, or does he know for certain that these parts are defective? It's your money, but it makes no sense to me.
I have no reason to not trust him, so I guess he knows for certain. He has been a friend for many years that happens to be a mechanic. He said something about the code being either those or a false signal from "knock" something, but since the car doesn't knock or ping he ruled out the anti-knock or whatever. I really need to get more info from him so I know about what I am speaking/typing.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by carlton_fritz
I have no reason to not trust him, so I guess he knows for certain. He has been a friend for many years that happens to be a mechanic. He said something about the code being either those or a false signal from "knock" something, but since the car doesn't knock or ping he ruled out the anti-knock or whatever. I really need to get more info from him so I know about what I am speaking/typing.
I'm not sure I understand any of the above. Nevertheless, my advice is to label the old parts and keep them in your spare parts drawer. It may be interesting to do some A-B comparison tests later on.
I'm not sure I understand any of the above. Nevertheless, my advice is to label the old parts and keep them in your spare parts drawer. It may be interesting to do some A-B comparison tests later on.
ps: My compliments on your avatar.
My mechanic says I need those parts. Since he has been a friend for years that happens to be a mechanic, I believe him. He has never done me wrong before. He actually gives me lower prices. In some cases he won't take payment until I have driven the car for a while.
As for the code, He hooked up his scanner to see what code was registering. He said something about a possible false code from a knock sensor (?). I can't remember exactly what he said. But since the car doesn't knock or ping, he says I need to replace both ignition and ESC modules.
Last edited by carlton_fritz; Jun 8, 2007 at 07:20 AM.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by carlton_fritz
My mechanic says........... But since the car doesn't knock or ping, he says I need to replace both ignition and ESC modules.
I assume that when you determined that the engine doesn't knock or ping, the engine was running and driveable at the time. What diagnostic data makes you suspect the ignition module wasn't doing its job? And, if the engine isn't knocking, there is nothing for the ESC unit to detect. Like I said earlier, it's your money to spend, but I honestly don't understand, given the information you provided, what parts aren't doing their intended task.
I assume that when you determined that the engine doesn't knock or ping, the engine was running and driveable at the time. What diagnostic data makes you suspect the ignition module wasn't doing its job? And, if the engine isn't knocking, there is nothing for the ESC unit to detect. Like I said earlier, it's your money to spend, but I honestly don't understand, given the information you provided, what parts aren't doing their intended task.
I'm going to quiz him this afternoon. The light comes on intermittently. The car starts first try in the morning. Every time after, it's hard to start. The car feels 25hp~ weaker when the service engine light comes on. I have gone a week without the SES light coming on. It hasn't been on at all today.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by carlton_fritz
Update. My mechanic said the computer is throwing a code for one or the other module. He's going to go through a process of elimination. He says it's one of the 2 modules. Not sure which until he tries new modules. Normally the customer gets their own parts, but in this case he will get the part since he doesn't know which needs replacing. He has one of each he can try.
Even if it seems pointless to post this, I figure that some other noob out there can learn something from it.
I'm in no way trying to be impolite, but how is a noobie going to learn anything from this thread? The only facts I can discern from this is that your mechanic wants (originally) to replace two electrically independent parts. Nobody learns anything from shotgunning a problem. Make sure he gives you definitive data or reasons for the parts swap. Only if there is accurate information will anyone learn anything from this experience. It's almost like you're paying the tuition, but nobody is teaching anything.
Sorry. Just my way of looking at things automotive.
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