C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Antifreeze/Coolant Question(s)

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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 10:19 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Corvette Kid
Or do the logical thing and install conventional antifreeze
and maintain it properly.
No, my vote is DO NOT SWITCH coolants.

If the car came with glycol, stick with glycol. If it has Dexcool, stick
with Dexcool. The two coolants are incompatible, numerous expensive
issues arising from mixing them are mattes of public record and lawsuits.

You can't flush Dexcool completely from a system, even if you succeeded
there would still be residue from the coolant that had seeped into gaskets
and hoses. People have suggested changing over after a total rebuild
- what about the heater, radiator, water pump and so on?

If still unconvinced, then at least search the archives here and on
the web before proceeding

As for the 'compatible with everything' coolants: sorry, I have no
confidence that I would ever be able to collect if they turned out to
be incompatible. I couldn't be convinced to trust and try.

.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 10:21 PM
  #22  
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Dexcool sucks. You're not gonna get any money if/when your engine fails from that either.

So why not use the newer coolant and eventually the Dexcool will be mostly gone.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 11:51 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Soft water = Calcium and magnesium ions are replaced with sodium ions to reduce fouling. The sodium ions will increase the water's conductivity and speed up galvanic corrosion.

Deionized water = Reverse Osmosis = Filtered to remove minerals, bacteria, etc. Used to desalinate water. Aggressive to metals.

Distilled water = Boiled to remove minerals and bacteria. Cleaner than Deionized, but more expensive. More aggressive to metals.

When deionized water or distilled water is used in a lab, the pipes are always plastic.


You can't win with water. It's a very nasty chemical, but it's damn good at cooling. (WATER IS NOT A CHEMICAL)


The antifreeze is there to do everything the water can't, in this order: Resist corrosion, lower freezing temps, and increase boiling temps.

From: http://www.counter-act.com/rustprocess.htm

FOR CORROSION TO OCCUR THREE REQUIREMENTS MUST BE MET:

1.The metal needs to be in contact with an electrolyte. (DEFINITION: ELECTROLYTES ARE SOLUTIONS WHICH CONDUCT ELECTRICAL CURRENT AND SUPPORT IONIZED PARTICLES.) Usually the electrolyte is water but other liquids as well as gases in some instances may serve as electrolytes as well.

2.The presence of dissolved substances in the electrolyte is necessary. These substances can be dissolved gases such as oxygen, chlorine or bromine gases or dissolved ions such as H+ (hydrogen ion) all of which serve as strong corrosive agents. Pure distilled water with no dissolved substances will not function as an electrolyte and metals subjected to it will not corrode.

3.The presence of a corrosion cell whereby two portions of the metal surfaces become electrically connected via an electrolyte, salt bridge etc. A portion of the metal surface then becomes anodic (corrodes) giving up metal ions and another portion becomes cathodic, gaining metal ions.

It appears that adding distilled water to a coolant with a rust inhibiter would be benificial to the longevity of a radiator. I would also change it every two years. Over time the distilled water will pick up minerals from engine parts. Change the coolant and flush the system to keep it clean.

Last edited by Kool88vette; Jun 9, 2007 at 12:30 AM.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 02:07 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Kool88vette
Pure distilled water with no dissolved substances will not function as an electrolyte and metals subjected to it will not corrode.
I didn't say it would corrode. Deionized water will actually dissolve the metal over time. There's a reason it's only piped in plastic pipes, and stored in glass containers.

As far as I know, distilling gets you more organic purity, but not as much ionic purity. So it's not as aggressive as deionized water. But it's also more conductive.

DI water is more for lab purity where dissolved metals can harm experiments. Distilled is more for drinking / sanitizing to remove bacteria.


You can have aggressive water, or you can have conductive water. Pick one. The water wants to have ions in it. If you remove them, it will get them from somewhere else. I would also avoid using websites that are hawking crap as a scientific reference.

Last edited by CentralCoaster; Jun 9, 2007 at 02:10 AM.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 02:15 AM
  #25  
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And if you won't take my word for it, then ask yourself how a battery works, and why you're supposed to put distilled water in it.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 07:52 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Slalom4me
No, my vote is DO NOT SWITCH coolants.

If the car came with glycol, stick with glycol. If it has Dexcool, stick
with Dexcool. The two coolants are incompatible, numerous expensive
issues arising from mixing them are mattes of public record and lawsuits.

You can't flush Dexcool completely from a system, even if you succeeded
there would still be residue from the coolant that had seeped into gaskets
and hoses. People have suggested changing over after a total rebuild
- what about the heater, radiator, water pump and so on?

If still unconvinced, then at least search the archives here and on
the web before proceeding

As for the 'compatible with everything' coolants: sorry, I have no
confidence that I would ever be able to collect if they turned out to
be incompatible. I couldn't be convinced to trust and try.

.
But here's where this argument is flawed. A trace of Dexcool will not contaminate conventional antifreeze but the reverse is not true. This is what I meant when I stated that ELCs in general are much more easily contaminated by adding even 10% of tap water or of course even a small amount an incompatible coolant. But this is not a death knell for ethylene glycol. It can much more easily be adjusted back with a proper mixture and adding SCAs if need be. After a proper flush there is no reason whatsoever that a car that came with Dexcool or another ELC cannot be changed over to conventional coolant. I've done this on uncounted vehicles of all types over the years with no adverse affects.

Like you, I also don't buy the "compatible with all" coolant BS either. It just doesn't add up with what I have learned about coolant types over the years.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 09:55 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
As far as I know, distilling gets you more organic purity, but not as much ionic purity. So it's not as aggressive as deionized water. But it's also more conductive.
Distilled water is not conductive. You can test this yourself with a multimeter. Tap water will have a reasonably low resistance. Distiller water will max out the device (as long as you are careful with the test, use something clean to put it in, don't touch the water, etc).

If you buy coolant that is pre-mixed, look at the bottle. It will say they mixed it with de-ionized water (distilled is expensive). I am not sure they'd do that if it weren't the appropriate way to mix coolant.

Originally Posted by Corvette Kid
The reason I don't like Dexcool (such as came in later C4s) and other extended life coolants is this. They are much more easily contaminated than conventional ethylene glycol. For instance, if you add 10% of system capacity of tap water to the system, you just destroyed it's chemical protective properties.
Dex-Cool is an ethylene glycol coolant just like the silicated green stuff. If you added 10% water to a 50/50 silicated mix, you'd also be compromising its protective ability. It's a bad idea to top your system off with straight water whatever the coolant (unless you run straight water as a coolant or something...)

I agree though, there's more to evaluating coolant than checking the ratio. If you have doubts about the coolant, drain it out and refill it. It's neither hard to do, nor particularly expensive, and a lot is riding on it doing its job. FWIW to the original poster, my car takes about 3 gallons of coolant, though we don't have the same engine.

Last edited by Aurora40; Jun 9, 2007 at 10:02 AM.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 10:06 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
And if you won't take my word for it, then ask yourself how a battery works, and why you're supposed to put distilled water in it.
You are actually supposed to put battery acid in it... But distilled water works because only the water itself generally evaporates out (or gets split into hydrogen and oxygen and gasses out). You use distilled water because it's pure. It won't crap up your battery with sediments, salts, etc. It'll replace the water that got removed and bring the system back to whatever acidity it was in originally. Only water escaped, only water should go back in.

If you have a brand new battery that is empty (marine/deep cycle batteries are sometimes sold this way), and you put nothing but distilled water in there, I doubt it would ever hold a charge. You fill it initially with battery acid. Then afterwards you can maintain it with distilled water.

Last edited by Aurora40; Jun 9, 2007 at 10:08 AM.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 01:50 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Aurora40
Distilled water is not conductive. You can test this yourself with a multimeter.
Because it has less dissolved solids. I don't know which is worse, DI, or distilled.


But it will dissolve the metals in your system, and become an electrolyte at the expense of your metals.
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 09:21 PM
  #30  
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....let me "shift gears" here a second.....after all was said and done (as in my 1st post on this thread), my temps are running 8*-10* WARMER!.

....all capacities, fans, burping, EVERYTHING etc was done properly.

....however, the ONLY difference from when i started to the end result was that i did NOT add a bottle of WATER WETTER......i am now curious as to if that could be the contributing factor as it says that the stuff lowers temps 10* +/-....any reasonable opinions?....
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