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I have a friend with a 84 model. I did all the usual tuning plus intake gaskets, but it bucks real hard once or twice every once in a while, usually on light acceleration around 55 mph. Otherwise it runs and idles fine. Check engine light usually comes on at cold start and goes out after a few minutes. Gives a code 34.(after clearing codes a day before)
One other thing, the fan is always on with the ignition on, but temp. goes as high as 230 at speed.
Any suggestions appreciated. (I'm a bodyman, so take the tech easy on me)
I have a friend with a 84 model. I did all the usual tuning plus intake gaskets, but it bucks real hard once or twice every once in a while, usually on light acceleration around 55 mph. Otherwise it runs and idles fine. Check engine light usually comes on at cold start and goes out after a few minutes. Gives a code 34.(after clearing codes a day before)
One other thing, the fan is always on with the ignition on, but temp. goes as high as 230 at speed.
Any suggestions appreciated. (I'm a bodyman, so take the tech easy on me)
Thanks, Mark
Not sure what you mean by "all the usual tuning", but the 84 is a different animal with the cross fire injection. Did you balance the TB's and set the TPS? If you changed intake gaskets I assume you also changed the "lid" gasket and re-torqued? this area is prone to vacuum leaks.
Sorry, the intake setup was done at a shop. (all topside gaskets) I doubt that the other stuff to the sensors and bodies was done. The intake gaskets were shot and leaking everywhere, idle was 1200. Now, even, idle is 600 to 700, smooth acceleration, everything is fine except the occasional buck,1 or 2 times in a 25 mile trip.
That idle rules out a vacuum leak and the need to synchronize the TBs, and and make the minimum air adjustment. Since it only takes a few seconds, there is no reason not to check the TPS adjustment while the DVM is out. The first thing is to trouble shoot you MAP code. It may need a new MAP and maybe not. Don't throw money and parts at it. Trouble shoot it. If he is keeping the car and one of you will be working on it, repairs will be quicker and cheaper if he orders the factory service manual (FSM).
With information from the manual he/you should be able to fix the hacked wiring for fan, which shouldn't come on until approx 235°, and **** off at approx 225°. And also perform the "deferred maintenance" on the cooling system. "At speed" the engine should be in the 200° - 215° range.
I have a friend that happened to. It was the lockup conveter. Needed to replace some type of sensor or something in the tranny, it was cheap. good luck
The car belongs to an older man who bought it for his grandson and has spent about all he can on it. I'll tell him about the manual.
hopefully it can make 500 miles to grandsons house.
Thanks for info.
By the way, what's deferred maintenance on the cooling system?
By the way, what's deferred maintenance on the cooling system?
Mark
Deferred maintenance is normal, periodic maintenance, that has been deferred, overlooked, neglected, ignored, and otherwise, simply not done. Besides a very thorough flush of the system and coolant change, the radiator should be removed and the debris removed from in front of the radiator, between the radiator and condenser.