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Well the rear end on my 84 is leaking to the point that I need to fix it now. It is the stock D36 with 3.08 gears in it.
The drivers side seal is leaking pretty bad to the point that it is leaving 1-2" spots on the driveway.
I do not want to rebuild the whole rear end, but was wondering if I can remove the yokes on the sides and front and replace the outer seals without dissambeling the whole rear.
I know a guy that can rebuilt the rear for $400 but would rather just replace the seals.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
If I recall, you have to remove the entire diff, seperate it from the batwing cover, and remove the heavy duty C-clips inside to pull the yokes out for seal replacement.
And before you ask, there is no cover gasket, just RTV.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Yep, it's not difficult to change seals but the clips for the output shafts are indeed inside as CC stated. It's also advisable to consult the FSM for the proper procedure to R&R the input yoke. This is so you don't risk disturbing the pinion depth setting, as it is set with a crush sleeve.
If the $400 includes bearings and seals as well as setting the back lash correctly I would take it out and let him do it. I assume that is re-using your R&P. The 86 had snap rings that had to be removed to get the yokes out and let me tell you that was a PIA, very stout thick rings.
If the $400 includes bearings and seals as well as setting the back lash correctly I would take it out and let him do it. I assume that is re-using your R&P. The 86 had snap rings that had to be removed to get the yokes out and let me tell you that was a PIA, very stout thick rings.
That the snap rings are stout. I gave up using my craftsman snap ring plier, after breaking 7 or 8 of the replacable tips.
Sorry guys I didnt clairify, this is with the rear out and seperated from the batwing. The main concern I have is if there is any spacing backlash etc I need to worry about.
If there are any "settings" that need to be done, then I dont want to risk it.
And yes the $400 is using the old ring and pinion. I would hope they are still good. The car has 117K miles so Im not sure but I did not want to change the ratio.
To the best of my knowledge pinion depth on all Dana 36 & 44 rear axles is set with shims, not a crush sleeve. Consult the FSM for your year to verify, then replace the seals as suggested above, install a new pinion nut and torque to specifications.