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ok i have temp problems, i got up to 240 just the other day, i have had the 160* stat put in like 4 years ago but nothing else. i have new coolant and my engine is fine, but the temps are soo high for me, i here about people taking the shroud off but to me seems really hard and confusing, is there a way i can crawl under my car with a shop vac and suck out the garbage. i looked inbetween the little gap on the passengers side and saw a leaf, i got it out but i here u have to REALLY CLEAN them to make a differance, and would getting a new radiator make a differance, and if it would can anyone sugjest a good one?
To thoroughly clean the fins of the radiator, you really do need to remove it. In that case, if you can afford a new one, you're better off to simply replace it. You'll spend hours trying to clean the old one, and you still won't get it completely clean. And when you put it back in, you'll still have an old radiator that has an unknown amount of scale and restriction in its inner passages, etc.
You can get a new OEM radiator for less than $200. Or you can go with an aftermarket unit, such as a DeWitt, which will cost quite a bit more (but will be more durable, and will cool the engine better). The DeWitt unit will require some minor mods to install, but nothing too difficult.
I cleaned mine over the weekend. The core was completely plugged with road crap.
Before: in traffic with A/C on, it would continue to get hotter until I broke down and turned the heater on full blast. The first time (just got the car) the check gauges light came on at 255 before I noticed there was an issue.
After: she runs at 200 degrees. Always. Any road conditions, any outside temp, any speed, a/c on or off, 200 degrees.
This cost me nothing but a saturday afternoon. Not that hard to do, around a dozen screws to take off.
I would suggest that if the cooling system has been properly maintained over the life of the car, it's clean on the inside, and undamaged on the outside, replacing the rad is an unnessesary expense.
I cleaned mine out with a shop vac and blew compressed air though it from the back side and also flushed the cooling system. This was all a waste of time. For $134 and one hours work I replaced the radiator and that is the first time this car has cooled properly ever. It even ran hot when new!
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Originally Posted by JimMel
I would suggest that if the cooling system has been properly maintained over the life of the car, it's clean on the inside, and undamaged on the outside, replacing the rad is an unnecessary expense.
But that's the $64 question though. If the internal cores are clogged from coolant neglect, nothing will fix it. If you find a lot of crap, as you likely will when you remove the upper shroud, then give it a shot. The problem is, is that even with the radiator out, you're unable to see even a glimpse of the cores internally. And plastic/aluminum radiators cannot be boiled out as could the old copper and brass ones. They can be recored but it's hardly worth the bother when new ones can be found for $150 or so. No matter what though, a good external cleaning is likely to make a major difference unless the radiator is totally fubar.....
Pull the old radiator and clean between the radiator and condenser. If the radiator doesn't flow well, take it to a radiator shop and have it flow tested. They may be able to clean it if necessary. IF you decide to buy a new radiator, make sure you get one with an aluminum core. My radiator core is the original, 23 yeas old, and my car stays cool.
Originally Posted by derekguzz
will the OEM be better than the stock one i have in? its old and never been cleaned or replaced
haha good advice for OEM,,,im a idiot. ok well im gunna tackle this job cause the heat is killing me,,,it was 99 and humid yesterday and my car said no thanks...but we will see and pray its easy,,all i have to do is take out those screws and i will see alot of **** in there? then vacum? can i hose it down?
Clcik the link in my post #4, there's some pics there showing what needs to come off, and the trickier parts of how. There's a link in that post to some more specific directions on getting the shroud off.
As far as cleaning the darned thing, mine was DISGUSTING. It took 2 hours with a hose, an air hose, a shop vac, some 409, even a leaf blower. It took all I had to keep the pressure washer under the workbench, it woulda destroyed that core.
It did eventually come clean, and it works real good now.
ok well im gunna tackle this job cause the heat is killing me,,,it was 99 and humid yesterday and my car said no thanks...
Humidity makes you and me miserable, but it has no effect on the cooling system of your car.
Originally Posted by derekguzz
but we will see and pray its easy,,all i have to do is take out those screws and i will see alot of **** in there? then vacum? can i hose it down?
First, thoroughly flush the whole cooling system. When you think it is perfectly clean, do it again. You will do a better job if you pull the block drain plugs. Keep filling, flushing, draining, bringing up to temp and flushing. Then remove all the upper shroud bolts, the upper and lower radiator hoses and the transmission cooler lines. Then simply lift, pull up, on the radiator, and it is out. Now, you can get in there to clean all the debris and gunk that was lodged between the radiator and the condenser. This is the time to take the rad to a pro if you want his input.
I cleaned mine out with a shop vac and blew compressed air though it from the back side and also flushed the cooling system. This was all a waste of time. For $134 and one hours work I replaced the radiator and that is the first time this car has cooled properly ever. It even ran hot when new!
I bought a brand new OEM radiator from Fred Beans (a forum sponsor that rarely gets any attention here - great prices and service - check them out!!!!!!) for less than $150. Relatively cheap insurance. That and my old radiator was leaking.....
ok i cleaned it with a hose and a shop vac, didnt take it out but got the cover off..covered my engine with towels and plastic so i dont get anything wet...soo much **** came out...my engine does get hotter than 209 now sitting in traffic with the ac on...wow it helped alot, and now my heat works and spits out HOTT air...it didnt before, but NOW i have a elak in my power steering pump lines and leaking all over, going to the local chevy dealership sat morning....thanks alot guys, it was pretty easy but took about 1-2 hours to take off. 20 mins to put on....later guys
ok i cleaned it with a hose and a shop vac, didnt take it out but got the cover off..covered my engine with towels and plastic so i dont get anything wet...soo much **** came out...my engine does get hotter than 209 now sitting in traffic with the ac on...wow it helped alot, and now my heat works and spits out HOTT air...it didnt before, but NOW i have a elak in my power steering pump lines and leaking all over, going to the local chevy dealership sat morning....thanks alot guys, it was pretty easy but took about 1-2 hours to take off. 20 mins to put on....later guys
.......uh, the way you have it written up here is that the car is GETTING HOTTER(?) ......
but NOW i have a elak in my power steering pump lines and leaking all over, going to the local chevy dealership sat morning
What is going on at the "chevy dealership"? Are they having a drawing or something? Certainly you aren't going to overpay them to tighten a power steering fitting or replace a hose?
What is going on at the "chevy dealership"? Are they having a drawing or something? Certainly you aren't going to overpay them to tighten a power steering fitting or replace a hose?
ok guys,,i dont have a lift nor know what to look for, i opened the hood and looked to see if i can track and lines and see where the leak is, but i cant find it, i cant get underneath it...if u guys have advice let me know, its not getting warmer, i just get hotter air when i turn the air on..
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