C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1989 Headlight Woes

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Old Jun 23, 2007 | 10:37 PM
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Default 1989 Headlight Woes

trying to replace the bushing in my 1989 vette headlights, but running into to glitch

Here's where I'm stuck - How do I proceed?

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Old Jun 23, 2007 | 11:14 PM
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Great picture you posted, that is it. What I did was use two small flat blade screw drivers and slowly worked the gear off the drive. I know its spooky but it will work just dont get in a hurry.

Let us know how it went Sam
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Old Jun 24, 2007 | 12:00 AM
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I just stuck a screwdriver through the hole in the shaft and pulled it out. It will be hard to pull off because of a lip on the gear. It does pop out.
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Old Jun 24, 2007 | 12:31 AM
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Did you knock the pin out?
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Old Jun 24, 2007 | 07:57 AM
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Scott,

There isn't a hole the in the shaft (at least the end I'm looking at) - I didn't remove the headlight motor from the headlight frame
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Old Jun 24, 2007 | 09:21 AM
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The big gear is driven by the spiral gear on the armature shaft. The correct method is to remove the armature first.
Take the motor off from the gearbox housing. When this is done...the spring loaded brushes that contact the armature will snap in. I used some bailing wire to hold them in their slots for reassembly. Just push the brushes up in the slots...bend a small "L" on the wire and loop that over the motor case. Re-install the armature and then pull the bailing wire "retainers" out, you should hear a snap as the spring loaded brushes snap in against the armature. Let me know how you do.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 08:24 AM
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Check the C4 TechTips Section on this Forum. There are several good articles there that will tell you how to do it. Here's another.

http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/33098/

I would avoid removing the screws that keep the motor housing to the gearbox. While the motor can be reassembled, it isn’t a fun job and should be avoided at all costs.

By placing a small screwdriver in the hole where the cotter pin resided, you can pull up on the gear assembly and remove it from the housing. It will be tight because of the worm gear, but it will come out.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 06:56 AM
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I really did not have a difficult time re-assembling the motor to the gearbox, and actually found it to be pretty simple once I figured out how to keep the springs compressed. The "secret" is bending a wire (paper clips may be too thick) to hold the spring loaded carbon brushes in their channels. This is accomplished by bending a very short "L" on the end, pressing the spring loaded carbon brush up into the channel slide, and bending the remaining wire over the motor housing..(there are slots on the housing for the wire clearance. By the way, I used bailing wire because it is so soft and easy to pull out after you've assembled the motor back onto the gearbox. It is the correct way to disassemble and repair the gearbox.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jimmyu2
I really did not have a difficult time re-assembling the motor to the gearbox, and actually found it to be pretty simple once I figured out how to keep the springs compressed. The "secret" is bending a wire (paper clips may be too thick) to hold the spring loaded carbon brushes in their channels. This is accomplished by bending a very short "L" on the end, pressing the spring loaded carbon brush up into the channel slide, and bending the remaining wire over the motor housing..(there are slots on the housing for the wire clearance. By the way, I used bailing wire because it is so soft and easy to pull out after you've assembled the motor back onto the gearbox. It is the correct way to disassemble and repair the gearbox.
That is at it may be, Jimmy, but I refute your statement "it is the correct way to disassemble and repair the headlight motor."

At best, it is ONE WAY to repair it and one that a newbie to the task is bound to find frustratingly unnecessary.

Why? For one thing, the tiny screws that secure the motor casing to the housing are prone to rust and break off.

Two, you are introducing additional steps into the process that are not required to remove the main motor gear.

As I and others who have successfully replaced the bushings have stated, all you have to do is place a small screwdriver in the hole where the cotter pin resided.

You pull up on the gear assembly and remove it from the housing. It will be tight because of the worm gear, but it will come out.

There are a lot of things you won't find in the FSM. Headlight bushing repair is one of them.

Again, I salute you for finding a way to fix your headlight motors, but I think you're doing the OP and others facing this problem a disservice by stating yours is the correct way to disassemble and repair a headlight motor.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 06:44 AM
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I have not seen rusted bolts on my headlight activating motors. Also I have been a machine mechanic for over 35 years, I know how to take mechanical assemblys and sub assemblys apart and reassemble them to original status. When you pry the large gear off, you are focing it past the worm gear. This could (possible) damage the worm gear, and/or the large helix gear.
The right way is to remove the motor from the gearbox. If you break a screw, there are ways to fix that too. But if rust is a problem soak it in penatrating oil for 24 hrs.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 06:46 AM
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Oh I forgot..the motor pictured looks to be in good condition...I don't think rust is a problem here.
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