Rebuild Starter for 89 coupe
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 417
Likes: 0
From: Audubon PA
Rebuild Starter for 89 coupe
Every 30 or 40 starts I hear that sound like either the starter isn't engaging or I'm missing a tooth on the flywheel. I'd rather it be the starter so can some of the forum master techs walk me through taking the starter out on an 89 coupe and rebuilding it. I heard it's not that bad a job..jzvette 
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Chesterfield VA
Getting it out is very easy. Well if yours is stock anyway.
Remove the torque converter/flexplate sheild (4 bolts). Remove the two bolts holding the starting on, and let it lay on the exhaust. Then remove the electrical connections from the top. It will come out through the place where the shield was.
Ohhhhh,,,, remove the NEGATIVE connection from the battery first. Took me about 15 min to remove and replace my starter, I didn't rebuild it.
Remove the torque converter/flexplate sheild (4 bolts). Remove the two bolts holding the starting on, and let it lay on the exhaust. Then remove the electrical connections from the top. It will come out through the place where the shield was.
Ohhhhh,,,, remove the NEGATIVE connection from the battery first. Took me about 15 min to remove and replace my starter, I didn't rebuild it.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
Every 30 or 40 starts I hear that sound like either the starter isn't engaging or I'm missing a tooth on the flywheel. I'd rather it be the starter so can some of the forum master techs walk me through taking the starter out on an 89 coupe and rebuilding it. I heard it's not that bad a job..jzvette
......check your pm's...
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 234
Likes: 1
From: Wesley Chapel FL
Same problem
I would appreciate a heads up when you fix the problem. My 87 is doing the same thing, but won't get to it for several weeks. I heard that it could be a starter shim problem (gear not engaging corectly), but if it was OK at one time, then I would think that is not the problem.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 6,694
Likes: 3
From: Less Talk, More WOT | Houston TX
Getting it out is very easy. Well if yours is stock anyway.
Remove the torque converter/flexplate sheild (4 bolts). Remove the two bolts holding the starting on, and let it lay on the exhaust. Then remove the electrical connections from the top. It will come out through the place where the shield was.
Ohhhhh,,,, remove the NEGATIVE connection from the battery first. Took me about 15 min to remove and replace my starter, I didn't rebuild it.
Remove the torque converter/flexplate sheild (4 bolts). Remove the two bolts holding the starting on, and let it lay on the exhaust. Then remove the electrical connections from the top. It will come out through the place where the shield was.
Ohhhhh,,,, remove the NEGATIVE connection from the battery first. Took me about 15 min to remove and replace my starter, I didn't rebuild it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 417
Likes: 0
From: Audubon PA
I may tackle the job next weekend, I will let everyone know how it goes. I know there is someone out there who has done this exact job, I hope they will respond. Can I do it with ramps???
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Advanced
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Chesterfield VA
You don't need to remove the torque converter shield to remove the starter
So JZVETTE, if it will come out without removing the shield, you don't have to. LOL
I know there is someone out there who has done this exact job, I hope they will respond. Can I do it with ramps?
BTW wheelman, nice vette, same color as my 89.
Last edited by 74f100; Jun 27, 2007 at 03:58 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 6,694
Likes: 3
From: Less Talk, More WOT | Houston TX
Mine didn't have enough clearance without removing it. That is much easier to remove than the exhaust.
So JZVETTE, if it will come out without removing the shield, you don't have to. LOL
I have rebuilt starters in the past, just didn't with my 89 vette. I bought one from NAPA because I didn't feel like cleaning the old one. It is really a very easy thing to do, the vette has a mini-starter that is much smaller and lighter than the older GM starters that used to always go out in the dead of winter. I just jacked the passenger side of the car up enough to get under it, but ramps would give more belly clearance.
BTW wheelman, nice vette, same color as my 89.
So JZVETTE, if it will come out without removing the shield, you don't have to. LOL
I have rebuilt starters in the past, just didn't with my 89 vette. I bought one from NAPA because I didn't feel like cleaning the old one. It is really a very easy thing to do, the vette has a mini-starter that is much smaller and lighter than the older GM starters that used to always go out in the dead of winter. I just jacked the passenger side of the car up enough to get under it, but ramps would give more belly clearance.
BTW wheelman, nice vette, same color as my 89.
I always forget that when I bought my car it had the aftermarket front Y pipe without pre-cats. Maybe thats why I am able to slide it out so easy. I agree, the flexplate cover is much easier to get off than the exhaust. Mine actually got more difficult to do after the header installation. Go figure. 
You might consider just getting a reman starter from one of the parts houses. I bought one from O'rielly, with a lifetime warranty.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,624
Likes: 2
From: Canandaigua New York
If there is too much wear where the brushes make contact (the copper area on the bottom), then you're better off replacing the starter.
If it looks ok, then it's a simple matter of cleaning it up and replacing the brushes.
But your problem actually sounds like a bad solenoid.
Replacing it is fairly easy.
Last edited by Keystring; Jun 27, 2007 at 09:12 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 417
Likes: 0
From: Audubon PA
Keystring,
can you give me more info on solenoid?? If I have the starter out should I just replace the whole thing. I thought it might be cool to rebuild it, it doesn't sound to difficult.
Can anyone tell me how I can tell if it's the original 1989 starter.
can you give me more info on solenoid?? If I have the starter out should I just replace the whole thing. I thought it might be cool to rebuild it, it doesn't sound to difficult.
Can anyone tell me how I can tell if it's the original 1989 starter.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,624
Likes: 2
From: Canandaigua New York
The starter motor has brushes on each side of the armature that will need to be replaced.
If the armature is ok and not worn down from the brushes, then just clean it up and install new ones.
Just make sure the tensioning springs (look like bent washers) on each end of the armature shaft are ok. Make sure you lubricate the ends. I usually use lithium grease.
I'm not sure how you could tell if the starter is the original.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Yorkville IL
I used to have a 406 with 12.5:1 that had an appetite for starters. I rebuilt it MANY times, and ended up swapping in some junkyard parts to help it live, including an iron nose off a truck starter... This was a conventional direct dsrive starter, yours will be physically slightly different. But anyway...
I do have a few tips that will help.
Replace the bendix and the solenoid, and ONLY use genuine AC Delco parts from the dealer. The autoparts store stuff is pure CRAP and will not last.
You can clean the commutator on the armature with a pencil eraser. If it's real nasty use a scotchbrite pad.
Inspect the ring gear on the flywheel, all the way around. Any bad or worn teeth, it will have to be replaced.
Dummy the starter onto the block without the solenoid on to check the gear engagement. That way you can work the bendix by hand, just pull out the part that fits into the solenoid to engage the gears. Check at least 4 spots around the flywheel. Use the tightest spot to shim.
At the tightest spot, you want just a schosh of clearance. Shim the whole starter (under both bolts) to make it looser, and only the outer bolt to make it tighter.
Once you've determined what shims you need, pull the starter, glue the shims to it, put the solenoid back on, and git-er-done.
I do have a few tips that will help.
Replace the bendix and the solenoid, and ONLY use genuine AC Delco parts from the dealer. The autoparts store stuff is pure CRAP and will not last.
You can clean the commutator on the armature with a pencil eraser. If it's real nasty use a scotchbrite pad.
Inspect the ring gear on the flywheel, all the way around. Any bad or worn teeth, it will have to be replaced.
Dummy the starter onto the block without the solenoid on to check the gear engagement. That way you can work the bendix by hand, just pull out the part that fits into the solenoid to engage the gears. Check at least 4 spots around the flywheel. Use the tightest spot to shim.
At the tightest spot, you want just a schosh of clearance. Shim the whole starter (under both bolts) to make it looser, and only the outer bolt to make it tighter.
Once you've determined what shims you need, pull the starter, glue the shims to it, put the solenoid back on, and git-er-done.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Yorkville IL
Ya never know where parts come from these days, and what the quality really is. If nothing else, I KNOW auto parts store rebuilts are junk. I can at least hope that a new GM Delco starter is a quality piece.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 417
Likes: 0
From: Audubon PA
I decided to buy a GM rebulild starter, but no luck, they are scarce or unavailable from the dealer. So I will have to rebuild, does the dealer sell rebuild kits of just the solenoid?? jzvette
