Looks like the engine for my 1991 is shot after 199,200 miles. Although, I never got an indication from the gauges, it appears I lost oil pressure while traveling 70 MPH on the freeway and the engine locked up. I'm trying to find out what my options are. I checked with GM and it appears the factory stock engine is no longer available. Can anyone verify that? Also, can anyone let me know what year model Corvette engines will work in the car? Also, can my current engine be saved and perhaps rebuilt? Any suggestions? Thanks.

 

are you for sure its locked up.. if your oil pressure goes below 15psi the fuel pump turns off.. could be a bad or unplugged oil pressure sender.

 

Chances are very good that your engine can be rebuilt. It would have to be disassembled and checked that nothing too expensive, like the block, suffered irreparable damage. Corvette L98s, 1986-1991 are direct replacements and will take your injection system and all accessories and just bolt in. That is also true of certain other engines. Any non-vortec, Gen I, engine can easily be adapted.

RACE ON!!!

 

That is absolutely, unequivocally, 100 percent, FALSE. It is time for you to spend some quality time with your FSM, before you spread more old wives tales.

RACE ON!!!

 

You may want to look at a crate engine. Go to www.golenengineservices.com They have a good reputation and resonable prices. You can reuse your TPI if you prefer. Also www.crateenginedepot.com

 

 

What should oil pressure be around anyway? My car idles at 700RPM at 180*F Coolant Temp, 190*F Oil Temp,...

The oil pressure runs from as low as 20PSI to 25PSI

DG

 

I saw replacement L98 short blocks on sale at Route 66 and SDPC for like $800. Let me see if I can find a link...

 

OK, it's gone up to $1100...I must have seen it on sale.
http://www.sdparts.com/product/12510...eAssembly.aspx

 

My 86 has about 65 psi of oil pressure cold and about 25-30 psi hot. That is a false statement about low oil pressure shutting the fuel pump off.

 

Thanks everyone. danziger thanks for the link especially. Also, do you know if the 1991 came with a 2 bolt main or 4 bolt main?

 

Two bolt mains.

 

NP!

 

One other question, someone told me I can put a 400 cid in the car. Any thoughts on that?

 

You have alot of options when it comes to engines; you may want to consider all of them before droping big bucks on a new motor. First off, a good rule of thumb... take whatever you intend to spend on replacing or rebuilding the engine and double it.

As for your choices in engine. For Lack of space you want to stay away from Big Blocks although I am pretty sure you could squeeze one in. The LS1/LS2 is a very popular swap right now... they make amazing power stock, and fantastic gas mileage to boot. The LT1 is a cheaper option... and then of course there is your standard Gen I 350. I read an article somewhere where a shop was taking out L98's in C4's and swapping in 5.3L LS motors, that might be another option.

DG

 

you have a ton of options, but I can sell you a late 89 early 90 engine complete for $1800 plus shipping, with new main and rod bearings. Shipping would be about $350. umm for another hundred, I would put in a dual roller timing chain.
also, your engine should be 4 bolt main, with a unique baffle system for your pan. be sure you get it and the studs that hold the main bearing caps on your present engine if you don't buy a genuine corvete engine. It's part of a baffling system that other engines don't have because the corvette pan is shallower than other pans. And you should use the original pan or a genuine corvette pan for ground clearance.
It is possible that your timing chain gear wore out, and that there are valves that have smacked the pistons, and is stopping the rotation of your crankshaft.
or you ran it out of oil, or there could be a sheared distributor drive gear pin (not likely) that would stop the ignition, stop the oil pump and the engine all at once.
But I would go for the timing chain scenario. I had to replace the heads on my daughter's car after 230,000 miles when the chain jumped timing, and the bent valves kept the engine from rotating because they would not go back on their seats, and the pistons were in contact with the valves.

 

Thanks will keep you all posted. coupeguy2001, I hear you on the 89-90 engine and I will seriously consider it. If I did go with an entirely different engine say a LS1, how does that affect the electronics (sensors, computers, etc) in the car?

 

It appears GM's oil pressure switch was simply a fault circuit if the relay fails, to keep motorists from having to be towed back for a relay repair. Lame..

-- Joe

 

Pace Performance had inventory of p/n #12510735 this spring but they
now list it as no longer available. Ditto for GMPartsDirect.

I credit CF member mrc24x for finding them - he bought one from Pace
returned it because of an issue and built up the replacement with
good results. I bought one, too. Discussion about it appears here

- 1990 L98 Engine Block

You could try contacting forum GM parts distributers to see if they
can locate one somewhere in the system. Chris May at Superior Chev
always does a great job at finding discontinued items if they're available.

Alternatively, there is the L31 fitted short block. I have written about
these and the partial engines in several threads. To my knowledge,
no one has purchased one for use in their car but it is what I intended
to do until I learned there were still some L98's available. One
example p/n #12556121 appears in the thread above - if it is something
you might be interested in, I will post links to the other L31 threads.

Domestic shipping is frequently included in the price for the GM partial.
Based on my experience, I'd question frt costing much more than $200.

.