How hot is too hot
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 16,838
Likes: 341
From: Database Error Indiana
Personally I consider 235*F too hot. You might find some good information on these websites. I installed a Dewitt's radiator and did some mods to make the fan come on earlier. It helped a great deal.
http://gmtips.com/3rd-degree/dox/tips/cool/cool.htm
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/redtech3.htm
http://gmtips.com/3rd-degree/dox/tips/cool/cool.htm
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/redtech3.htm
I tried the links. The first one has some good avice. I have done some of the things there. I also tried the water wetter. Did not make 1 degree difference.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,934
Likes: 3
From: Citrus Heights California
I've heard the same thing but I thought the website had some good info. I tried 20% coolant 80% distilled water and a can of water wetter. It seems to run a little cooler on that mixture. I think an oversized radiator like a Dewitt's might help. It has twice the capacity of stock.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,934
Likes: 3
From: Citrus Heights California
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 2
From: port charlotte fl
Compared to most vehicles you have to admit it's a wonder theres any air flow at all. Then idiots(like me) put ground effects on there and decrease the air flow even more.As for the rest of it I don't really know.I had a very respected Jag mechanic who swore by water wetter. I used it but in combination with a cat elimination and temps dropped but due to what i don't know.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,291
Likes: 33
From: Chicago IL
If not, then it is something else. Maybe a partially clogged radiator?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 16,838
Likes: 341
From: Database Error Indiana
[QUOTE=pushrod-v8;1560990694]You have cooling system issues. Is your lower radiator hose original? Is the oem inner spring bad? Start the car with the cooling system at air temp. Have the radiator cap off. When the dash hit the thermostat temp., squeeze the lower passenger radiator hose and watch the coolant level in the radiator. If it drops, you have air in the system and possible a bad lower radiator hose.
If not, then it is something else. Maybe a partially clogged radiator?
The bottom hose is 3 years old. I jacked up the right front and took the cap off the radiator to get air out. It was cooling fine before I did a major rebuild. I feel it needs help, I just want some input before I spend a lot of time and $$$ on it.
If not, then it is something else. Maybe a partially clogged radiator?
The bottom hose is 3 years old. I jacked up the right front and took the cap off the radiator to get air out. It was cooling fine before I did a major rebuild. I feel it needs help, I just want some input before I spend a lot of time and $$$ on it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,679
Likes: 1
From: South Amboy NJ
Good topic...I have a similar situation. I have a 396 LT1 with the Dewitt's radiator, 160* thermostat, all new hoses, and fans adjusted accordingly. On the highway the car runs in the mid 190's coolant wise and 230ish oil. Bumper to bumper traffic puts the coolant at 235 and the oil at 260-270. I have only put 200 miles on it so far. 
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 16,838
Likes: 341
From: Database Error Indiana
Good topic...I have a similar situation. I have a 396 LT1 with the Dewitt's radiator, 160* thermostat, all new hoses, and fans adjusted accordingly. On the highway the car runs in the mid 190's coolant wise and 230ish oil. Bumper to bumper traffic puts the coolant at 235 and the oil at 260-270. I have only put 200 miles on it so far. 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Ever wonder why most cars don't have digital readouts for temps and pressures??
My thinking is because it causes such concerns among the car owners and as this Forum constantly sees in posts, specifically about oil pressure/temps and coolant temps.
Give 'em a number and the majoriity become REALLY concerned and begin accumulating grey hair. Give 'em an "idiot" light or a gage with NO numbers, they drive off into the sunset fat, dumb and happy.
Don't give a passing thought to 220F on either the coolant or the oil.
Jake
My thinking is because it causes such concerns among the car owners and as this Forum constantly sees in posts, specifically about oil pressure/temps and coolant temps.
Give 'em a number and the majoriity become REALLY concerned and begin accumulating grey hair. Give 'em an "idiot" light or a gage with NO numbers, they drive off into the sunset fat, dumb and happy.
Don't give a passing thought to 220F on either the coolant or the oil.
Jake
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 2
Spankyellow,
somewhere in the post you wrote that you used a laser thermometer. I once used one, industrial grade, very interesting device.
Having this equipment at hand would you coonsider the digital temperature reading on the car to be accurate or is it off?
It would be interesting to take a reading with a thermometer into the cold coolant and then use the laser thermometer.
And take the temperature with the laser termometer at the coolant reservoir when the car is hot. And compare those temps to the digital readings from the car. Just to see how inaccurate it really is.
After all, if the reading of temperature on the car is as accurate as the gasoline meter reading I am safe to say that temperature reading on the car does not matter at all!
Thanks
Roberto
somewhere in the post you wrote that you used a laser thermometer. I once used one, industrial grade, very interesting device.
Having this equipment at hand would you coonsider the digital temperature reading on the car to be accurate or is it off?
It would be interesting to take a reading with a thermometer into the cold coolant and then use the laser thermometer.
And take the temperature with the laser termometer at the coolant reservoir when the car is hot. And compare those temps to the digital readings from the car. Just to see how inaccurate it really is.
After all, if the reading of temperature on the car is as accurate as the gasoline meter reading I am safe to say that temperature reading on the car does not matter at all!
Thanks
Roberto
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 16,838
Likes: 341
From: Database Error Indiana
Spankyellow,
somewhere in the post you wrote that you used a laser thermometer. I once used one, industrial grade, very interesting device.
Having this equipment at hand would you coonsider the digital temperature reading on the car to be accurate or is it off?
It would be interesting to take a reading with a thermometer into the cold coolant and then use the laser thermometer.
And take the temperature with the laser termometer at the coolant reservoir when the car is hot. And compare those temps to the digital readings from the car. Just to see how inaccurate it really is.
After all, if the reading of temperature on the car is as accurate as the gasoline meter reading I am safe to say that temperature reading on the car does not matter at all!
Thanks
Roberto
somewhere in the post you wrote that you used a laser thermometer. I once used one, industrial grade, very interesting device.
Having this equipment at hand would you coonsider the digital temperature reading on the car to be accurate or is it off?
It would be interesting to take a reading with a thermometer into the cold coolant and then use the laser thermometer.
And take the temperature with the laser termometer at the coolant reservoir when the car is hot. And compare those temps to the digital readings from the car. Just to see how inaccurate it really is.
After all, if the reading of temperature on the car is as accurate as the gasoline meter reading I am safe to say that temperature reading on the car does not matter at all!
Thanks
Roberto
Racer
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 325
Likes: 2
From: Chattanooga TN
not trying to cause truble here..however my understanding is that a thermostat is pretty important..
it keeps coolant in the radiator long enuff to let it cool off..if you have no thermostat it free flows and water cant stay in the radiator long enuff to cool down..
thus leading to overheating.
it keeps coolant in the radiator long enuff to let it cool off..if you have no thermostat it free flows and water cant stay in the radiator long enuff to cool down..
thus leading to overheating.
whatever that temp may be....
but the saying about the coolant not remaining in the radiator long enough to loose sufficient heat is nothing more than an urban myth...
even if higher flow rates through the radiator do result in less temperature drop, the increased volume of coolant exposed will discard as much, if not more total heat (BTU`s)...
plus, the higher coolant circulation rate means more uniform temps across the block and heads, and also tends to raise the detonation threshold...
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 16,838
Likes: 341
From: Database Error Indiana
After driving the car a few days, I believe the increased compression has increased combustion temps to cause this, and since it does not overheat when cruising, a second cooling fan should put enough air through the radiator at low speeds, to cool it down. I will give it a try this weekend and see what happens.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Arizona
Phoenix here, I run a 195* thermostat, 50% coolant, 50% distilled water fans are programed to come on at 195* main and 210 2nd fan. Weekly I look between the radiator and condensor to see what "Kirby" has picked up this week. Did the TB bypass last month, and burped it again. Our weather has been 110* and above for 13 days, with some temps 116-117* although today temps between 103-105*.
The car temps are between 210* driving and 230-235* setting in traffic on the freeway (big parking lot). I can say this from experience if the temps ever get up to 240-245*I would shut the car off and wait, I have had head gaskets blow at 245-250* I would prefer temperatures to run 200* or lower if at all possible.
Hope this helps
The car temps are between 210* driving and 230-235* setting in traffic on the freeway (big parking lot). I can say this from experience if the temps ever get up to 240-245*I would shut the car off and wait, I have had head gaskets blow at 245-250* I would prefer temperatures to run 200* or lower if at all possible.
Hope this helps
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 16,838
Likes: 341
From: Database Error Indiana
Phoenix here, I run a 195* thermostat, 50% coolant, 50% distilled water fans are programed to come on at 195* main and 210 2nd fan. Weekly I look between the radiator and condensor to see what "Kirby" has picked up this week. Did the TB bypass last month, and burped it again. Our weather has been 110* and above for 13 days, with some temps 116-117* although today temps between 103-105*.
The car temps are between 210* driving and 230-235* setting in traffic on the freeway (big parking lot). I can say this from experience if the temps ever get up to 240-245*I would shut the car off and wait, I have had head gaskets blow at 245-250* I would prefer temperatures to run 200* or lower if at all possible.
Hope this helps
The car temps are between 210* driving and 230-235* setting in traffic on the freeway (big parking lot). I can say this from experience if the temps ever get up to 240-245*I would shut the car off and wait, I have had head gaskets blow at 245-250* I would prefer temperatures to run 200* or lower if at all possible.
Hope this helps
Bingo, thats exactly the info I have been waiting for. This tells me, anything over 235* is asking for real trouble.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
If the fan can't hold it under 230F, then it's struggling. The auxiliary fan should really never come on.
The coolant temp will spike well above that after shutdown though, because the motor is still dumping heat while there's no cooling going on.