Slave Cylinder Bleeding a PITA
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,771
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From: MANDEVILLE, LA La
Slave Cylinder Bleeding a PITA
Started bleeding the clutch slave on the 84' last night boy what a pain.
My FSM states it must be held on a 45 degree plain with the bleeder directly on top.
Anyone have trouble with this? After about an hour of bleeding I only have about half a pedal.Any Tricks?
My FSM states it must be held on a 45 degree plain with the bleeder directly on top.
Anyone have trouble with this? After about an hour of bleeding I only have about half a pedal.Any Tricks?
Last edited by CAJUN C4; Jul 10, 2007 at 03:04 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 27
From: Minneapolis MN
I remember bleeding the slave on my '86 was somewhat difficult. I think I ended up bleeding it off the car with a trick someone here posted that ended up working ... try searching the archives.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
After working it with the pedal, put a rag under the master cylinder.
Get underneath and hold the slave with the hose fitting at the highest point.
Push the slave rod/piston in by hand to force the fluid and air up to the master cylinder. This may cause the master to overflow.
Get into the car and slowly pump the pedal up again to extend the slave piston until there is resistance. Watch the reservoir, it will drop fast, make sure you don't draw it dry.
Now pedal bleed it again.
If it's not rock hard, repeat.
You should get 3/4" of travel at the fork end when all is said and done.
I don't bleed clutches with the slave installed if I don't have to. It makes it hard to tell if there's air in the lines or just the pressure plate moving.
Get underneath and hold the slave with the hose fitting at the highest point.
Push the slave rod/piston in by hand to force the fluid and air up to the master cylinder. This may cause the master to overflow.
Get into the car and slowly pump the pedal up again to extend the slave piston until there is resistance. Watch the reservoir, it will drop fast, make sure you don't draw it dry.
Now pedal bleed it again.
If it's not rock hard, repeat.
You should get 3/4" of travel at the fork end when all is said and done.
I don't bleed clutches with the slave installed if I don't have to. It makes it hard to tell if there's air in the lines or just the pressure plate moving.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,771
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From: MANDEVILLE, LA La
We were successfull drawing fluid out with a Mighty Vac Pump. The pedal was hard as a rock not installed.However, when we test drove it the pedal became softer & softer until I couldn't shift it.It's my 9 month old Master cylinder that is the culprit. I screwed up assuming it was the 4 year old slave.You'd think after 58 years one would know better.
Oh well,1 year warranth at Advance.Anyone have trouble with Advance Auto's Cylinder products?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 6,252
Likes: 2
From: Silicon Valley Kalifornia
Master Cylinder - If its the ~$80 cheapie then YES. Mine lasted about 20 miles. The internal valve was failing....pumping into the reservoir. Get the GM "reproduction" which is about ~$140. I've been very happy with it. It installs better too.
Last edited by GRX; Jul 11, 2007 at 12:45 PM.
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notice the two different hole sizes in the rod...the first time I did one I never noticed until it was in the car!!!
I wasn't so lucky ,the one I got was solid.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,771
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From: MANDEVILLE, LA La
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 0
From: MANDEVILLE, LA La
GRX...Where did you get the Better GM Repro From?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Scottsdale AZ
