Harmonic Damper Install
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 2
From: Elgin Il
Harmonic Damper Install
Finally coming to the end of my timing chain gear set install and pan repair.
Tried installing the Harmonic Damper last night. I am using the correct installation tool, and a fairly large adjustable wrench (the nut on the tool must be a 1").
This thing seems to be a little rough to put on. I got about 1/4 inch more to go, and it looks like I'm going to have to jam a screwdriver or something in the flywheel to keep the engine from turning. I think I am seeing some metal shaving dust coming off the tool as I crank on it.
The wrench has a 10-12 inch handle, and I'm pulling on it pretty good.
Are these things this tough to install, or is something wrong? When I have had to put this kind of effort into something in the past, It usually broke. Just looking for someone to tell me "Yes, you are a wimp"
Thanks.
Tried installing the Harmonic Damper last night. I am using the correct installation tool, and a fairly large adjustable wrench (the nut on the tool must be a 1").
This thing seems to be a little rough to put on. I got about 1/4 inch more to go, and it looks like I'm going to have to jam a screwdriver or something in the flywheel to keep the engine from turning. I think I am seeing some metal shaving dust coming off the tool as I crank on it.
The wrench has a 10-12 inch handle, and I'm pulling on it pretty good.
Are these things this tough to install, or is something wrong? When I have had to put this kind of effort into something in the past, It usually broke. Just looking for someone to tell me "Yes, you are a wimp"
Thanks.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
From: edmonton alberta
take it off again inspect the hub for damage if its OK ,just put a bit of lube on the hub and make sure when your pressing it on its going on strait and even.it takes a bit of muscle but should go on nice and smooth with out binding you should have to stop the crank from spinning when installing it thats normal
Last edited by etown brawler; Jul 12, 2007 at 08:44 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by etown brawler
if its a new balancer it should be honed to fit, dont force it on .any engine shop should do it for a few bucks
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, hone the bore of a vibration damper. It is the tight press fit that allows the vibrations to be transmitted from the crank to the damper and allows the dampening to take place.
Make sure you have no metal shavings or dust coming from the crank or damper; from the tool, is OK. It can help if you boil the damper to heat it and expand the bore, slightly. Don't use a torch or other means to get it hotter, because you can damage the rubber elastomer that bonds the ring to the hub. I've never tried it but an ice pack on the snout of the crank for a while couldn't hurt, either.
RACE ON!!!
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
From: edmonton alberta
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, hone the bore of a vibration damper. It is the tight press fit that allows the vibrations to be transmitted from the crank to the damper and allows the dampening to take place.
Make sure you have no metal shavings or dust coming from the crank or damper; from the tool, is OK. It can help if you boil the damper to heat it and expand the bore, slightly. Don't use a torch or other means to get it hotter, because you can damage the rubber elastomer that bonds the ring to the hub. I've never tried it but an ice pack on the snout of the crank for a while couldn't hurt, either.
RACE ON!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
I just installed a ATI Super Damper (274) a few weeks ago on my new 388 LT1 engine and that sucka was a TIGHT fit, and I mean TIGHT!
My EAGLE crank has double Woodruff keys when increased the resistance even more.
I had to use a big pipe wrench and plenty of muscle, but it went on smoothly, but only a little at a time.
And, yes, I had to wedge a big, flat blade screwdriver in the rear (using flexplate bolts, screwed into the crank, to wedge it) to keep the engine from turning.
Jake
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Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
From: edmonton alberta
Yes, unless it's the aluminum one. ATI says not to hone those.
I just installed a ATI Super Damper (274) a few weeks ago on my new 388 LT1 engine and that sucka was a TIGHT fit, and I mean TIGHT!
My EAGLE crank has double Woodruff keys when increased the resistance even more.
I had to use a big pipe wrench and plenty of muscle, but it went on smoothly, but only a little at a time.
And, yes, I had to wedge a big, flat blade screwdriver in the rear (using flexplate bolts, screwed into the crank, to wedge it) to keep the engine from turning.
Jake
I just installed a ATI Super Damper (274) a few weeks ago on my new 388 LT1 engine and that sucka was a TIGHT fit, and I mean TIGHT!
My EAGLE crank has double Woodruff keys when increased the resistance even more.
I had to use a big pipe wrench and plenty of muscle, but it went on smoothly, but only a little at a time.
And, yes, I had to wedge a big, flat blade screwdriver in the rear (using flexplate bolts, screwed into the crank, to wedge it) to keep the engine from turning.
Jake
Last edited by etown brawler; Jul 12, 2007 at 02:07 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 1
From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
Frank,
Agree with you on that. Having installed two new ATI super dampers on 2 different cranks, I found about .004 " under on the steel hub requiring honing to get the .002 " press fit as directed in the ATI instructions. I have seen the results of a .004 to .005 " press fit on a crank that a friend attempted and it wasn't pretty. Metal shavings and gouges in both crank and damper. It would be wise to always measure the crank and new damper before install to determine proper press fit when using new parts whether OEM or Aftermarket. I have also seen new and used crank hubs vary as much as .002" on the O.D.
Rick
Agree with you on that. Having installed two new ATI super dampers on 2 different cranks, I found about .004 " under on the steel hub requiring honing to get the .002 " press fit as directed in the ATI instructions. I have seen the results of a .004 to .005 " press fit on a crank that a friend attempted and it wasn't pretty. Metal shavings and gouges in both crank and damper. It would be wise to always measure the crank and new damper before install to determine proper press fit when using new parts whether OEM or Aftermarket. I have also seen new and used crank hubs vary as much as .002" on the O.D.
Rick
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
From: edmonton alberta
Frank,
Agree with you on that. Having installed two new ATI super dampers on 2 different cranks, I found about .004 " under on the steel hub requiring honing to get the .002 " press fit as directed in the ATI instructions. I have seen the results of a .004 to .005 " press fit on a crank that a friend attempted and it wasn't pretty. Metal shavings and gouges in both crank and damper. It would be wise to always measure the crank and new damper before install to determine proper press fit when using new parts whether OEM or Aftermarket. I have also seen new and used crank hubs vary as much as .002" on the O.D.
Rick
Agree with you on that. Having installed two new ATI super dampers on 2 different cranks, I found about .004 " under on the steel hub requiring honing to get the .002 " press fit as directed in the ATI instructions. I have seen the results of a .004 to .005 " press fit on a crank that a friend attempted and it wasn't pretty. Metal shavings and gouges in both crank and damper. It would be wise to always measure the crank and new damper before install to determine proper press fit when using new parts whether OEM or Aftermarket. I have also seen new and used crank hubs vary as much as .002" on the O.D.
Rick
Last edited by etown brawler; Jul 13, 2007 at 12:26 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
If you're really having to crank down hard on the hub tool, stop. You run the risk of snapping the tool's threaded bolt end inside the crank snout, or stripping the threads. The inner bolt's head ot the tool is taking up all the rearward pressure. Pull the balancer off, and clean the crank snout/balancer hole with fine grit sand paper. It should go on relatively easy.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 2
From: Elgin Il
Once I secured the engine with a screwdriver jammed betwen the flywheel and the ground, the balancer went on using the same effort the rest of the way. It was tougher then I expected, but lubing the tool threads and compression ring seemed to help.
Got the dampner on and the car is running smoother then I can remember.
We'll give it the full test drive into work tomorrow, but looks like I passed through this aweful job with plenty of help from CF.
Thanks again guys!
Got the dampner on and the car is running smoother then I can remember.
We'll give it the full test drive into work tomorrow, but looks like I passed through this aweful job with plenty of help from CF.Thanks again guys!
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
From: edmonton alberta
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, hone the bore of a vibration damper. It is the tight press fit that allows the vibrations to be transmitted from the crank to the damper and allows the dampening to take place.
Make sure you have no metal shavings or dust coming from the crank or damper; from the tool, is OK. It can help if you boil the damper to heat it and expand the bore, slightly. Don't use a torch or other means to get it hotter, because you can damage the rubber elastomer that bonds the ring to the hub. I've never tried it but an ice pack on the snout of the crank for a while couldn't hurt, either.
RACE ON!!!
You've both got zero in my book.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by etown brawler
read post 8,9,13 you should always check the press fit on a balancer even a stock replacement balancer might need to be honed to get the .002 thous press fit.you NEVER NEVER NEVER force a balancer on to the crank snout,measure the fit and if it needs, hone for a .002 press fit.you cant say NEVER NEVER NEVER hone the damper bore .that is not true and could cause serious damage to balancer and crank.me 2 other guy 0
Originally Posted by etown brawler
.me 2 other guy 0
RACE ON!!!