C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

CCM codes help?!

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Old Jul 14, 2007 | 06:55 PM
  #1  
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Default CCM codes help?!

My '94 LT1, 6SPD w/90K miles is showing codes:

C 31/33/35/37

When I clear the codes they come back, and, of course along with the history codes.

The User's Manual for the grounding plug diag kit I have states these indicate:
data circuit shorted to B pos or CCM drive open (C31)
data clock circuit shorted to B pos or CCM drive open (C33)
data strobe circuit shorted to B pos or CCM drive open (C35)
M clock circuit shorted to B pos or CCM drive open (C37).

So what does this mean to a knuckle dragger like me and what can I expect when I access the CCM, and how the heck do I fix it? Could this indicate a loose/bad connection where ever this B pos thingie is, CCM drive thingie, or does the CCM need to be replaced.

My Heims was pretty clear that the CCM itself rarely fails and that loose/bad connections are the usual suspects. I have had an occasional, sporadic flickering of the dash/speedo lights leading up to this and it's still there.

Thoughts, ideas, opinions? Help!

Thanks,
Carl
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 12:34 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by mffi115
My '94 LT1, 6SPD w/90K miles is showing codes:

C 31/33/35/37

When I clear the codes they come back, and, of course along with the history codes.

The User's Manual for the grounding plug diag kit I have states these indicate:
data circuit shorted to B pos or CCM drive open (C31)
data clock circuit shorted to B pos or CCM drive open (C33)
data strobe circuit shorted to B pos or CCM drive open (C35)
M clock circuit shorted to B pos or CCM drive open (C37).

So what does this mean to a knuckle dragger like me and what can I expect when I access the CCM, and how the heck do I fix it? Could this indicate a loose/bad connection where ever this B pos thingie is, CCM drive thingie, or does the CCM need to be replaced.

My Heims was pretty clear that the CCM itself rarely fails and that loose/bad connections are the usual suspects. I have had an occasional, sporadic flickering of the dash/speedo lights leading up to this and it's still there.

Thoughts, ideas, opinions? Help!

Thanks,
Carl

This is probably going to be a bitch to track down.

I'd start diagnosis from the cluster end rather than the CCM. Much easier to get to.

This "B pos thingy" is 12V.

[edit]Actually, I just checked this in the FSM, and the diagnostic charts for these DTCs tell you to diagnose from the cluster end. Just follow those charts.[/edit]
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Vis Croceus
This is probably going to be a bitch to track down.

I'd start diagnosis from the cluster end rather than the CCM. Much easier to get to.

This "B pos thingy" is 12V.

[edit]Actually, I just checked this in the FSM, and the diagnostic charts for these DTCs tell you to diagnose from the cluster end. Just follow those charts.[/edit]
Thanks. I assume by cluster end, you mean the instrument cluster (speedo, etc.)? I told you I'm a knuckle dragger. Is this a volt meter or visual type task?
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 12:30 PM
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From: Fairfield CT
Default Gremlins in CCM!!!!???

This problem seems to be intermitent I haven't been able to work on this problem due to my traveling. Yesterday, I checked for the codes, - none, took the car for a long ride and checked again - got the history codes, cleared them and got C12. What gives?

Does this sound like a loose connector or the CCM giving up the ghost?

We're moving and I will be taking it on a 2,500 mile trip. Can I let this go? I need to spend the time packing up our stuff and might be forced to take it our for service.
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 02:40 PM
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From: Greenwich, CT
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Sorry I can't answer your question directly, troop, 'cause I dunno.

FWIW, yes, IMO it sounds like a loose plug somewhere - finding it
will be a PITA - due to where GM chose to mount the components.

Can you drive it a long distance as is? If it were mine, I'd probably
go ahead and make the trip. Generally, GM builds-in a lot of safety
features when they design a car - if a non-citical component (like the
CCM) fails, it will NOT shut the car down. You might loose the display
in the dash, but the engine will still run.

That's my opinion, based on my ECM test bench - I have a couple of
older Corvette ECMs that run on my work bench without being
connected to a CCM - and they run happily all day without knowing
the difference. I use them to look at software projects before I try
them in the actual car...

Does that guarantee I'm right about your car? No, but if I'm wrong
your money will be cheerfully refunded .

Good luck with the trip. Heading back east?

DrJ
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 12:27 PM
  #6  
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From: Naples FL
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C12 is an All Clear
You should always get a C 12 when checking codes. If you dont get a C12 and dont get any other codes you have a major problem.
In Short C12 is good.
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 03:30 PM
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From: NS
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Get your battery load tested. I once had a weak battery that would still start the car. Occasionally it would throw a slew of CCM codes after cranking. I assume because the battery voltage is dropped fairly low when I was cranking. This was also an intermittant thing. Replaced the battery and have never seen a CCM code since.
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