I have a 91 convertible that's throwing a code 34 for the ride control. Is there a way to access the actuator w/o removing the shock? Don't want to take a chance on damaging it. I'd appreciate any feedback.

 

There should be a wire clip that holds it on. Dont lose it, they are hard to find.


FX3 Diagnostics

To clear FX3 codes, turn the ignition to Run but don't start the car. With a small paperclip, jump pins A and C on the ALDL (in the upper left corner of the driver' side knee bolster). These pins are on the upper row and are lettered in this fashion as you look at them: E D C B A

To clear the codes, you must jump the pins for two seconds doing it for a total of three times.

To display the codes (which is simply a series of flashes of the SRC message) jump the pins and turn the ignition to Run and watch the SRC message lamp.

Codes are two digit values and the sequence always begins and ends with a code "12". The SRC light flashes based on each integer of the code and the code repeats three times with a couple of seconds between each code value. For example a Code 12 flashes like this:
12= blink, blink blink / blink, blink blink / blink, blink blink
(there is a about a half second "/" pause between each of the three code intergers)

A code 32 is:
32= blink blink blink, blink blink (and repeats twice more)

After all of the codes have been displayed there is a final code 12 and the sequence repeats until you either pull the jumper or turn the ignition off

Heres the code meanings:
Code 12 = Start of sequence
Code 13 = Left Rear Time Out (possible bad actuator)
Code 14 = Right Front Time Out (same)
Code 21 = Left Front Time Out (same)
Code 22 = Right Rear Time Out (same)

Code 23 = Loss of vehicle speed signal (this code will appear if the ignition switch is cycled On/OFF three times without the vehicle moving. Once the vehicle moves and there are no other codes the SRC light will go OFF but this code remains in history)

Code 31 = Left Front Out of Position (maybe broken gear on shock rod)
Code 32 = Right Front Out of Position (same)
Code 33 = Left Rear Out of Position (same)
Code 34 = Right Rear Out of position (same)

Code 41 = SRC Switch short to Voltage
Code 42 = SRC SWitch open contacts (console switch not positioned at one of the three detents
Code 43 = SRC switch citrcuit open.

Give this a try and report what codes you get. Remember, a Code 12 sarts the sequence and also ends it. Any other codes are repeated three times before the next code is displayed.

Last edited by c4cruiser : 11-30-2005 at 05:35 PM.

To clear FX3 codes, turn the ignition to Run but don't start the car. With a small paperclip, jump pins A and C on the ALDL (in the upper left corner of the driver' side knee bolster). These pins are on the upper row and are lettered in this fashion as you look at them: E D C B A

To clear the codes, you must jump the pins for two seconds doing it for a total of three times.

To display the codes (which is simply a series of flashes of the SRC message) jump the pins and turn the ignition to Run and watch the SRC message lamp.

Codes are two digit values and the sequence always begins and ends with a code "12". The SRC light flashes based on each integer of the code and the code repeats three times with a couple of seconds between each code value. For example a Code 12 flashes like this:
12= blink, blink blink / blink, blink blink / blink, blink blink
(there is a about a half second "/" pause between each of the three code intergers)

A code 32 is:
32= blink blink blink, blink blink (and repeats twice more)

After all of the codes have been displayed there is a final code 12 and the sequence repeats until you either pull the jumper or turn the ignition off

Heres the code meanings:
Code 12 = Start of sequence
Code 13 = Left Rear Time Out (possible bad actuator)
Code 14 = Right Front Time Out (same)
Code 21 = Left Front Time Out (same)
Code 22 = Right Rear Time Out (same)

Code 23 = Loss of vehicle speed signal (this code will appear if the ignition switch is cycled On/OFF three times without the vehicle moving. Once the vehicle moves and there are no other codes the SRC light will go OFF but this code remains in history)

Code 31 = Left Front Out of Position (maybe broken gear on shock rod)
Code 32 = Right Front Out of Position (same)
Code 33 = Left Rear Out of Position (same)
Code 34 = Right Rear Out of position (same)

Code 41 = SRC Switch short to Voltage
Code 42 = SRC SWitch open contacts (console switch not positioned at one of the three detents
Code 43 = SRC switch citrcuit open.

Give this a try and report what codes you get. Remember, a Code 12 sarts the sequence and also ends it. Any other codes are repeated three times before the next code is displayed

 

Do you have to remove the shock to access it?

 

Dont think so on the fronts, on the rears, yes. Remove the two bolts where it goes into the body and the one on the bottom mount...Once off the shock will drop down (dont let it drop on its own) and you can access it. Easy job.

 

I agree, it is an easy job. One the rear, there is a wide collar at the upper end of the shock which is what bolts the shock assembly to the body and also seals the actuator inside the frame. As mentioned, just don't let the shock drop free when it is ready to be removed, as the wires to the actuator are not very long. If you remove the wires from the actuator, be careful not to loose them back into the frame, as they can be a royal pain to fish back forward. What I do is attach a long plastic zip tie to the wire right at the connector. Then if you need to remount the shock without the actuator (for example, if you are sending it off for repair to Captain ZNC), you can leave a bit of the zip tie hand you when you remount the shock collar to the frame. That will leave the wire easily accessible when you go back.

 

Thanks for the info, I removed the shock and sure enough both the gear and the actuator are broken. I plan to send the actuator to Capt Z, haven't had many leads on getting a gear. I did get a lead from Aaron at Capt Z, will follow up on that tomorrow.
Thanks again

 

Thanks for the info, I removed the shock and sure enough both the gear and the actuator are broken. I plan to send the actuator to Capt Z, haven't had many leads on getting a gear. I did get a lead from Aaron at Capt Z, will follow up on that tomorrow.
Thanks again