-89 auto coupe- so far i have changed ignition module in distributer, plugs and wires,distributer cap,rotor,coil. getting 16.9-17 ohms on injectors.Took injectors out and cleaned ultrasonically. engine will run if starter fluid is sprayed in T.B. (that is up until now). New fuel pump and sock,drained old fuel out fresh fuel added . New fuel filter.Getting 40+ lbs fuel pressure at fuel rail.bled off fuel rail to make sure i am getting fresh gas. Very weak light when checking injector harness. As soon as starter fluid is used up engine dies.
I think my problem is vats related.
I just got through trying to crank it and the starter shut off real fast like the engine locked down and it's acting like the battery is dead but i know it's not because i keep a battery charger-maintainer on it when not driving it and it shows it's fully charged. Then something under the dash on passenger side started making this loud grinding buzzing noise like a timer grinding . it was vibrating that side of the dash pretty good.It was loudest and i felt more vibration on the farthest side of dash like it was behind the fuse panel.it will do this for 25-30 minutes before it quits then when you put the key back in and turn to run the dash lights up nice and brite again but if you turn the key to start position it will repeat the buzzing and grinding sound and darken the dash lights like the battery is dead. I was trying to take the dash apart to find out what it was and it started to rain. Any Hints as how to get the lower dash and bread loaf off ? I have taken all the screws out that i could see and took the center trim of the dash but still cant find whats holding it in place.
Could it be the vats timer trying to freeze up on me? Or is it not a separate unit from vats?

 

If you can crank the engine, then VATS is not involved. A noid light or a low power 12v lamp like the 194 side marker lamp across one of the injector sockets should pulse during cranking showing that the ECM is pulsing the injectors. You clearly do not have fuel being sprayed into the cylinders and if you have continuous 40 psi fuel pressure, then the only thing left is injectors not being pulsed or every injector is defective. The starter stopping can be a poor connection to the battery or at the starter. I would recommend that you remove the battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, bolts , and the battery terminals and replace the cables (neg last). Proof the battery and connections are ok is to measure the battery voltage at the battery terminals during cranking. The battery voltage must not fall below 9.0 volts or the battery is discharged, cable or cable connections are defective, or the battery is defective (low amp-hour capacity, internal resistance, dead cell). The squeeling you hear on the right side of the dash is a relay cycling due to low battery voltage.

 

Thats just it .I cant crank the engine now.I get this click from the dash close to the location of the loud buzzing then the buzzing continues till it stops. then the dash has power again. And i don't have the ac or heater blower on while doing this.

 

Better explanations get better diagnosis instructions!
Unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector switch at the base of the gear lever if automatic) and jump the switch socket. Measure the voltage on the jumper when you hit crank position. It should be 12v and if it is and no cranking, then you have a starter problem. If not, you can jump 12v to the jumper and the starter should crank proving the starter is ok. If no 12v, then you have a VATS problem and you should remove the kick panel above the drivers feet and find the 2 wires from above the steering column going to a 2 pin plug and unplug it. Insert your ign key and measure the resistance across the 2 wires from the steering column. It should measure same as your pellet. If over 4% from the pellet, or over 13k ohms, then you need to replace the ign lock which will have new contacts that make connection to the pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS by connecting a resistor across the 2 pin socket from the wiring harness (goes to VATS module) the same value as your pellet. You can use a 1/4W 5% resistor from Radio Shack, but it must be within 4% of the assigned value for your particular pellet. Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.

 

Thanks, I have ruled out the vats.It was the neg. terminal,a little corrosion on these side post makes a big difference. Tried another test light on the fuel injector harness and it's blinking, so i guess i need new injectors.

 

Glad you found the bad battery connection. Check for how long fuel pressure stays after you turn the ign off. A leaky injector can prevent starting and fuel pressure should take a long time (1/2 hr) to leak down, not right away.

 

Yellow00: You mentioned that the injectors were removed and cleaned ultrasonically. Who ever did this for you, did they check for injector flow? Doing this would have found a leaky injector. Most reputable injector service shops will not service the stock Multec injectors as they have a high failure rate. Let me know if you replace the injectors as I can recommend a source for you.

 

a friend at a little local shop cleaned them for me for free so no flow check. He was just trying to save me some money.Anyway worth a shot.
I am going to have to buy new ones so if you have a good source lay it on me i am all ears.

 

Here is the info on replacement injectors for you L98 engine:

Multec Replacement Injectors - Installed the new injectors today. Nice smooth install took about 1 1/2 hours. The new injectors made a big difference both in starting, idle and general performance (nice little bite off the line and smooth acceleration). These FMS injects are a Denso (I'm told one of the most reliable, more so than Bosch (opinion of my son and colleagues, certified master techs for toyota and honda (I forgave him for not being a gm guy!). The nice thing is these injectors were tested/rated at 22.5 lbs @43PSI. The installation was purely plug and play, no AFPR, no ECM retune, just a nice injector for a bone stock L98. The only noticeable thing is the ford injectors are louder, if that's negative it's the only I have to say. For those of you that would like a quality replacement injector for a stock L98, the FMS number is F55E-A2D/E. I purchased a reconditioned set of 8 (flow matched) with a 1 yr warranty for $199.92 + $10.00 shipping. The business is www.injectors4u.com. The owner is Howard Haack (989-644-2695) from the great American motoring state of Michigan. I would highly recommend this vendor both in service, honesty and some of the best technical resources in the injector business.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1560357682

I have given you what I promised in my post and as you requested.

I would like to offer you some comments that may also be helpful to you. From reading your post, it sounds like you are trying to shoot a running deer in the dark with a shotgun in the hope of hitting something. This will eventually solve your problem. However, it will cost you some time and a lot of $$$. Replacing the injectors MAY not solve your problem.

Here are some other ideas for you try before you replace the injectors:

1. Check the fuses for each injector bank. There is a fuse for the left and right bank injectors. One or both fuses may be blown. If so, replace the fuses and you will then have to address the question of what blew the fuse. A blown fuse will not allow the injectors to fire and that bank will not get fuel.
2. Attach a fuel pressure gage and turn the key on and off a few times. This will pressureize the fuel lines and injectors. Watch the pressure gage and see how much time elapses before you see a pressure drop. Leaking injectors will not allow you to hold fuel pressure.

Let us know what you find before you ****** out the injectors.

Bob

 

The first problem i had was the fuel pump went out.replaced it and sock.
the old sock had a hole in it so it sent a lot of trash through the system and killed the pump. Drained old gas out of tank put in fresh gas.the tank looked in pretty good shape inside. replaced fuel filter.car would run barely. then it gave me a code for oxygen sensor changed it also.Checked fuel pressure and i am getting around 45 lbs. Sometimes it holds pressure for up to 30 min's. and sometimes drops as quick as it comes up.bled off old gas in line to make sure i am getting fresh gas. If i pulled number 5 or 4 spark plug wire the engine would quit running. If i pulled any other wire it did not make a difference in the running of the car. replaced plugs wires cap rotor and coil still no change.still ran like it was only hitting on two cylinders. changed IM in distributer along with noise capacitor. no change in running. both fuses are good. hooked up a test light to injector harness
and the light is blinking fine,so it's got to be the injectors or does it not?
since i have had the injectors cleaned it will not crank at all.

 

Yellow00: the first note you posted indicates that the car will run on the starter fluid without missing on the cylinders. Does this condition still hold true? If it does, it sure sounds like injectors may be your problem. I have a procedure for replacing the injectors without pulling the runners. Let me know if you want a copy of this.
Bob

 

yes it still runs with starter fluid.
How does one change the injectors without pulling the runners??
When i removed them last time i just took off center upper intake.
then the 4 bolts on the rails,then the 2 bolts at fuel coupling in front
of engine.then i had plenty of room to pull the injectors out. Is this the way you do it?

 

Yes.