C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

4L60E wont shift at WOT

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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 12:27 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by sothpaw2
I thought these went for well over 100k. mi.

And it did, 124,000, to be exact. Only about 200 of that is actually my mileage though.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 12:31 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by black_771
Well,...I have the desire to learn. I actually ordered a trans rebuild DVD almost 2 weeks ago just in case, but the stupid thing has been on backorder since then. Once I see the video 50 or so times, I'll decide what level of confidence I have.

I can't seem to find it again, but to tell you the truth, one of the first threads I read here was about you helping a fellow member rebuild his transmission. It was probably the most informative thread I've ever read on any forum. That really gave me the idea that I could possibly do it myself. Like I said though, I'd have to see someone else do it first just to know what it should look like along the way.

My entire career is based on stuff I learned myself so I'm pretty sure I could learn how, but to actually turn that into a working transmission is a completely different thing. Trust me, you will be involved in some form if I do.

Thanks again!
The important thing to remember is to build the trans in sub assemblies. It makes it less overwhelming. Because I do it in my spare time, I usually to the following:
Day 1
Tear down the guts to the bare case. Clean it, replace the case bushing and paint it.
Day 2
Build up the output side
Day 3
Build the input drum and reverse drum
Day 4
Rebuild the pump and load the input side
Day 5
Go thru the valve body and anything that resides in the pan.
also install the servo, pan and tailshaft housing.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 12:44 PM
  #23  
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Also,
Resist the urge to throw every possible aftermarket part at it(regardless of who does overhaul it).
The aftermarket is loaded with sub standard "performance upgrades"
They cause more problems than they solve, and are actually weaker than stock.
Most who throw the "full monty" of parts in it, have unusual problems.
At least based on my experiences.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 12:46 PM
  #24  
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From: Mount Vernon Indiana
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Well, here is super basic question #1, when I changed the fluid, I ended up breaking off 2 pan bolts. Both bolts go all the why threw the case. Would use some type of thread repair insert or just drill it out and tap for a larger screw?

I'm somewhat of a perfectionist and knowing that I have 2 broken bolts in there just gives me a weird uncomfortable feeling.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 12:51 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by black_771
Well, here is super basic question #1, when I changed the fluid, I ended up breaking off 2 pan bolts. Both bolts go all the why threw the case. Would use some type of thread repair insert or just drill it out and tap for a larger screw?

I'm somewhat of a perfectionist and knowing that I have 2 broken bolts in there just gives me a weird uncomfortable feeling.
I would drill through it and try to extract it. If it gives you too much chit, drill and tapping for an oversize bolt will not hurt anything. Because I build them and sell them, I choose to install a helicoil. Looks more professional when it arrives at a customers place. Either way is fine though.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 05:32 PM
  #26  
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I'd also get the Automatic Transmission Service Guide for the 4L60e in case the video you ordered doesn't have everything. A good friend does all my rebuilds but if I was gonna do one I'd definately use this book.

Interesting to see the Z-pack reccomended. I went through several different clutch packs in a LT1 Z28 and used this in one of the builds. It was never a source of problems for me like the cheapo verter I bought was. Oh well, you live and you learn. Pete, what's your opinion on fuddle converters?
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 12:18 PM
  #27  
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Well, I'm back with some interesting news. I haven't been able to drive the 'vette in a little over a week so I got it out yesterday just to "look at it" which usually means a quick trip into town before putting it away.

I had some extra trans fluid left over in a gallon jug so I took it with me just in case. This new fluid is bright red when it goes in, but on the stick it's almost completely clear. Long story short, it's always been a little inconclusive when I checked the fluid level so I just kept adding more fluid. I added a tad more then an entire quart of fluid to get it solidly up the dipstick. Now, believe it or not, when I gas it it will actually shift at WOT about 50% of the time, although most of the time it is slow and loud like a bear is in the transmission trying to come out. I know thats a stupid thing to say, but that's what it reminds me of. I can actually get some pretty decent performance out of it now without the slipping at half throttle. That may be enough for me to be able to get through the summer before I rebuild it. Not sure what is up with the dipstick though. I wish it would be a little darker and consistent so I knew exactly where the fluid level was. Oh well, it's a small thing, but it's at least semi-positive. Haven't had too many of those with this car yet.
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