C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Another Alternator. Anyone know there electrical stuff?

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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 08:46 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by RWDsmoke
I did the cs -144 conversion 2 years ago and no more problems. The mounting ear on top is a little thicker so you have to grind off a little on the alternator ear or on the brakcet. That's it, the wiring harness is the same. A cs-144 is a monster compared to the original but there is plenty of room for it.
Could you take a picture for me, or do you have one handy?
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 09:07 AM
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there are folks who disagreee with me, but......

i believe in the endless rotation of the reman route w/lifetime warranty.......duralast gold from autozone......when my acdelco craps out, i have a duralast gold on the shelf (i think it was about $80) and will play the lifetime warranty game --- from then on they're free......after all, the alternator is easy to remove & replace which is why i believe in this strategy.

so that is my "solution".
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 10:05 AM
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I did the CS-144 upgrade.. going on 5 years.. NO Issues

CS-130 comapred to CS-144(installed)


CS-144 Installed






I understand it fits with a little bit of clearancing to the Stock bracket, I already had the AIR pump Eliminator so I cannot comment on the stock fit.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
ONE very important issue that no one here has yet observed. Those cars that are driven daily, seem to fewer electrical problems and work just fine. That is to say, very few battery or alternator problems. Those cars that are driven on weekends, appear to have battery problems once a year with corresponding alternator failures.

The common thread to most of these problems is the state of charge on the battery as the car sits between drives. So here is the answer; buy a battery tender! And keep the battery plugged in when ever your not driving. The battery will be charged and ready for the next weekend drive. And the alternator will not be laboring/overheating trying to charge a half dead battery.

At a cost of $35 bucks its cheaper than an alternator and battery every year.

THIS IS YOUR SOLUTION...BEFORE OR AFTER YOU GET A GEE WHIZ ALTERNATOR
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 10:27 AM
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Jeff, how much $$ did that CS-144 cost?
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod 90
Jeff, how much $$ did that CS-144 cost?
Check out Motor City Reman. When I was looking the new CS-144 was three times as much as stock. You should also upgrade your cables to carry the higher output. Not worth it to me.

Last edited by BADDUCK; Jul 20, 2007 at 10:53 AM.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 10:37 AM
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ahh, no game for me then -- way too much $$ and no real payback. $239.99, screw that.

i like paying $80 up front, and then just replacing them forever for free. cheap and easy.

Last edited by Red Tornado; Jul 20, 2007 at 10:39 AM.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod 90
ahh, no game for me then -- way too much $$ and no real payback. $239.99, screw that.

i like paying $80 up front, and then just replacing them forever for free. cheap and easy.
Yeah, I kept my original which still works as a back-up if I have to mail mine back in for repair.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by flynams
THIS IS YOUR SOLUTION...BEFORE OR AFTER YOU GET A GEE WHIZ ALTERNATOR
OEM style alt using a local (mom & pop) rebuild shop....
And a Diehard battery....



The theroy of your cars electrical system is that the alt powers the car. Not to simply charge the batt. Driving around one day a week weakens a cheap overhauled alt. Upgrading to a 144 amp alt is a successful mod. And you now have the power to carry those 500 watt stereo amps and concert speakers.

Last edited by JrRifleCoach; Jul 20, 2007 at 11:01 AM.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod 90
ahh, no game for me then -- way too much $$ and no real payback. $239.99, screw that.

i like paying $80 up front, and then just replacing them forever for free. cheap and easy.
I used to think this way as well...then four rebuilt alt's in one month stranding me on the road 3 times which cost me 3 nights in motels and the labor to change the alt since I did not have tools with me = a CS 144 upgrade...this was over 4 years ago and not one problem since...lifetime warranty does not help you at 2 AM on an I-road in the middle of nowhere...

If you only drive your car during the hours that the parts store is open and keep all the tools you need in the car and keep an extra batttery if you kill your new one with that bad rebuilt alt and you make sure you only drive on roads where you can safely pull over to change the part, then rebuilt alt's are a no brainer...
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 01:02 PM
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No-one took a look at my link?

The link I posted earlier was tech tip of how to upgrade from CS130 to CS144 using original brackets, take a look. Easy job. I spent $500 for CS130 rebuilds and Iceberg upgrade before I was fed up and upgraded to CS144.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod 90
Jeff, how much $$ did that CS-144 cost?
I don't remember, I got it from Jeff Kopp at Superiro Chevy,, before Chris May took his place

Rockauto has a Reman ACDELCO for $137.xx (that includes the $15 core charge you would have to pay)

so around $140 is what I paid years ago.. but I needed an Alt. and the last CS-130 I bought at Trak Auto, which had gone out of business before my alt died.
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-
I did the CS-144 upgrade.. going on 5 years.. NO Issues

CS-130 comapred to CS-144(installed)


CS-144 Installed






I understand it fits with a little bit of clearancing to the Stock bracket, I already had the AIR pump Eliminator so I cannot comment on the stock fit.

Thanks man!
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 07:05 PM
  #34  
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I purchased a Pep Boys Lifetime rebuilt for my 1st 88 and it's still going strong 9 years later.
The Delco rebuild on my 2nd 88 just went and I put a Pep Boys rebuild on it and still ok after 3 months...wooohooo!!! It gets hot as snot almost as soon as the car is running though so something is obviously wrong...time to start the troubleshooting. Looks like some good starting points on this thread. Probably start with cleaning terminals and battery.
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Old Jun 21, 2008 | 09:55 PM
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It looks like the alternator went again today. Does anyone have any idea what the issue could be?

The battery light came on, loss of power, volts at 11.6. This is the 3rd time this has happened.


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Old Jun 21, 2008 | 10:01 PM
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Does anyone know what causes the regulator to go in the alternator?
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Old Jun 21, 2008 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Aggravated4life
Most rebuilds get fixed what only went bad,then you dont even know what the rebuilder is using,if hes using the cheapest chit he can get and charge premium for it.

If the same part they replaced fails,its a good bet the replacement parts are simply cheap inferior quality..especially after a few times!

Im also urge most L98 C4 owners,if they want peace of mind,to do the CS144 upgrade found on later models.Its way better in design.

Sure some people with the older units got some life out of theirs...it happens,but the rebuild/replacement and majority of failure in replacement parts have been very high.

Myself included..the Vette was the ONLY car I had constant alternator failures with,and I did replace the battery and made sure the charge was healthy and excellent before doing a new one.

this gets my vote ! also, in my area i have found rebuilt L98 alternators with slightly smaller than stock pullies. this is great for low rpm charging but causes them to fly apart with rpm since you are now spinning the case faster than it was designed. do make sure you get a stock size pully or larger if you have a high rpm modified motor.
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To Another Alternator. Anyone know there electrical stuff?

Old Jun 21, 2008 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ToniH
No-one took a look at my link?
The CS144 is certainly "the fix" or the more desirable option. Unless you really need the amperage the 124 is likely plenty!
Here's your link again!:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=189&TopicID=2

That and the "ground confirmation" should be all that's needed!
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Old Jun 22, 2008 | 12:36 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 88BlackZ-51
Does anyone know what causes the regulator to go in the alternator?

As an EE, and your getting the same regulator all the time, I would suspect the regulator is poorly designed. I'd call some other auto electrical shops and describe your problem and see if there are other sources for replacement voltage regulators. I drive my 87 every day and I have replaced 3 alternators, they seem to last me about 6 years and I have always bought rebuilt AC Delco OEM alternators. Find out from the nearest Chevy parts department if the voltage regulator can be bought. I'd try that next.

Last edited by jfb; Jun 22, 2008 at 12:39 AM.
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Old Jun 22, 2008 | 03:28 AM
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Heck,Ive got to chime in!
Your shop is using cheap parts. (my opinion)
Heat is what is killing you alternator. Auto electric people told me long ago 3 or 4 year was good for a GM front driver, or vette because they don't have engine driven fans to cool things down.
Along with the weak battery you are providing by letting the car sit so much.
I went with the Pep Boys lifetime. They are new aftermarket alternators. I've smoked 2 of them in the last 10 years from weak batteries when my vette was sitting most of the time.
If your vette is weekender get a battery tender. It will take the load off the marginal alternator and the battery will last longer to. (Ask me how I know)
Another small help is a new boost fan switch if your vette has the fan out front. The stock switch doesn't turn the fan on until about 225 degrees. I got one to turn it on at 200.
If you got to get a new alternator I'd look into the CS144. Couldn't be much more. I think Pep Boys want $130 ish for a new one of theirs.

JS
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