I just posted a message on the C5 tech performance forum...accidently. Anyone know how I can transfer it to C4 tech performance by copying it. Pretty long message, would rather not retype it.

 

Just do a cut and paste

 

Just hold down your left mouse button and drag it over the text to copy it then hit the CTRL key and the C key...... CRTL C that will copy it to the computer clipboard. Then go to the C4 page, and click on the area where you want the text and hit CRTL V to paste it into the text area.

 

Couldn't help you move it, but I did answer it.

 

I tried all that. Can't get it to move. I'll re post on c4.

 

Here is your post from the C5 Tech Board...

This missive will be in two parts:
1) I have a 92 with 102K on the clock. The opti, waterpump, wires, and plugs have NEVER been changed. I know this because I have all service records back to day one and every detail regarding maintenance and repair of been documented to the "t".

It runs real well, except under hard acceleration in ist (auto). It craps out at about 4800 rpm. I can't figure out if it has to do with spark (opti-plugs-wires) or if it's starving for fuel. As you all know, it will build rpms VERY rapidly in 1st.
This I know....it's not hitting the rev limiter before it begins to do this.

Now part two...
Optispark. I've read all the threads and how to's and I think I can do the job. I'm an ol hot rodder from way back (57yo). But I have a couple of questions.
a.) if you pull the old opti off as one unit, how do you know where the rotor is pointing so that you can put the new unit in the approximate position BEFORE you try to line it up...and if you put the new unit on as a complete unit...how do you know where the rotor is pointing?

Is this important?...does anyone give a damn? Or do you just keep rotating the opti until you reach the fabled sweet spot?

I know I'm going to replace the wires and plugs. They're on their way from SpeedDemon, but I have to admit...I'm a little intimidated by the opti...

One more thingy...is it difficult to get the harmonic balancer off. On mine, there is a cross brace for the frame that runs no more than 8-9" right smack in front of the balancer.

Thanks for any help and encouragement.

Dave

 

On the early style opti you won't have the 3 slots that it can fit like the newer models. Instead you have a knurled stud with one tooth being slightly larger than the others. You can look for the larger slot on your old opti and line your new one up as close as you can. It should go on fairly easily, it CAN BE FORCED ON WRONG, but it shouldn't just fall on wrong.

The balancer, or crank pulley, or whatever you care to call it can be removed, but it won't be very easy. It just depends on how firmly it is attached to the hub. It can be done without having to do anything with the cross bar. The hub it is mounted to however is a different story. Luckily that does not have to be removed to pull the opti. If anybody knows how to get that hub off without raising the engine, let me know. That'll make fixing my oil leak a lot faster.

When I did my cam I wasn't able to get that hub off without raising the motor, making me drop the tranny, etc. Made my one week project into a two week project.

 

Thanks for posting my message on C4

 

The new opti will only go on one way unless you force it. Look at the new one you will note the shaft has 1 flat spot on it which must line up pefore it will go on easy (it must go on easy) you could force it on but that would be a bad thing. Take care when you install the plug wires they must be routed exactly as they were. Mark your wires and be sure they are correct it is very difficult to correct once you're back together. Remeber to use anti sieze on the plug threads (this is important). the belt pulley/balancer is the fun part I found using a long drift pin and a hammer used to tap the back of the pulley ck (you have just enough room from under the car to be able to tap the pulley loose) use anti sieze to put it back. You will need a chain wrench to hold the pulley while you re-tighten the pulley bolts there are 3 of them it will go on only one way. Don't worrly about turning over the engine when you take them off and put them on. I've down this a couple of times it just takes time. I found the job is much easier if you remove the left inner wheel well plate that is above the left shock. I move the ASR module out of the way, take the AC compressor lose from its mounting brackets (four bolt) makes running the plug wires easier. Good luck.

 

I used a 7/8 inch diameter rod of steel 21 inches long and a heavy hammer and hit it off from the back side. Rotate the crank 120 degrees after each couple hits in one location. Only contact the inner ring. This way you won't hurt the rubber in the balancer. FrankLT4CE

 

Thanks Guys. All good advice that I'll use. This forum is great!!
Dave

 

replace the opti is a pain in the butt. Mainly because the space to work them so tight. ANd the hard part is to remove the crank pulley in a tight spot. Good luck

Bruce
93LT1 Conv w/Zf6
top end mods
150hp NX jetted 150