Replacing water pump
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,117
Likes: 1
From: Central NJ
Replacing water pump
Well I know this has been gone over many times, I recently mistaken the leak in my engine bay for my power steering rack, although I smelt some antifreeze.
I have a 96 lt4 and today I looked at the weep hole again and it is wet, so my question is how long will the water pump last as it is for right now?, sometimes it gets underside of the hood somewhat wet from the belt throwing the coolant.
I understand that I dont need a service manual, but I bought the red covered one (book 2), im hoping that is the correct one because I got it for $60 shipped.
Now I do have somewhat of a budget with college in mind, dont get me wrong Im not looking to take the cheap way out.
I was looking around and saw I should replace the waterpump, upper and lower rad. hoses, thermostadt and also flush the dexcool out and throw the green stuff in there, any thing else I should look at?
Should I get non oem rad hoses and thermostadt?
I seen some guys about the electric water pumps, but they said something about removing the oil pan for some reason, and my car being a collectors edition I think it is just best to stick with oem, even though it only lasted 45k miles
.
I have a 96 lt4 and today I looked at the weep hole again and it is wet, so my question is how long will the water pump last as it is for right now?, sometimes it gets underside of the hood somewhat wet from the belt throwing the coolant.
I understand that I dont need a service manual, but I bought the red covered one (book 2), im hoping that is the correct one because I got it for $60 shipped.
Now I do have somewhat of a budget with college in mind, dont get me wrong Im not looking to take the cheap way out.
I was looking around and saw I should replace the waterpump, upper and lower rad. hoses, thermostadt and also flush the dexcool out and throw the green stuff in there, any thing else I should look at?
Should I get non oem rad hoses and thermostadt?
I seen some guys about the electric water pumps, but they said something about removing the oil pan for some reason, and my car being a collectors edition I think it is just best to stick with oem, even though it only lasted 45k miles
.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,884
Likes: 3
From: Magnolia Mississippi
St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07
The top question is: How long before your WP leak damages your Opti, then you'll have double the fun and expense... But on general principles:
WP
Hoses
Thermo's are cheap (but test before install - pan of water and see if opens at temp stated)
Def flush and go green
ACDelo parts are fine.
Yea Opti and wires while your down there.
WP
Hoses
Thermo's are cheap (but test before install - pan of water and see if opens at temp stated)
Def flush and go green
ACDelo parts are fine.
Yea Opti and wires while your down there.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,117
Likes: 1
From: Central NJ
The top question is: How long before your WP leak damages your Opti, then you'll have double the fun and expense... But on general principles:
WP
Hoses
Thermo's are cheap (but test before install - pan of water and see if opens at temp stated)
Def flush and go green
ACDelo parts are fine.
Yea Opti and wires while your down there.
WP
Hoses
Thermo's are cheap (but test before install - pan of water and see if opens at temp stated)
Def flush and go green
ACDelo parts are fine.
Yea Opti and wires while your down there.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,147
Likes: 452
From: Port St. Lucie West Florida
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,383
Likes: 4
Thermostats are cheap and the lifetime warranty pumps are less than $150. So it could be the last pump you buy and you will save enough to buy a drawer full of thremostats. Lifetime warranty Stant thermostat $20.
Last edited by 94z07fx3; Jul 26, 2007 at 02:19 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,147
Likes: 452
From: Port St. Lucie West Florida
IMO I would change everything (vinnies87) but considering you have 45k miles if you dont have the money then dont.You should do this asap.If the opti goes at 60k miles you would have to redo the waterpump.I had my opti till 75k and then because of leaks,replaced every gasket,wp,opti and wires and hub.(95LT1)some people have opti's till over 100k but you never know and alot of labor is involved
good luck
good luck
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
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From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,117
Likes: 1
From: Central NJ
Well thats not so good news, doesnt book 2 include engine & transmission? And I figured waterpump would be with the engine..
Well im out looking for book 1 I guess.
Well im out looking for book 1 I guess.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
From: Churchville 18966 Pennsylvania
From Who??
alan
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2006
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Part No. WP9001 lifetime warranty 142.88
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
If you're on a budget, do keep in mind that opti's are expensive unless you can get them wholesale. I guess what I am saying is at least fix the waterpump so you don't destroy your distributor and HAVE to spend the money on it. I just replaced mine after I hit 100k but had replaced the waterpump at about 60k after mine did the same thing yours is doing.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 298
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From: Churchville 18966 Pennsylvania
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 65
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
No, "j 38185 spring hose clamp pliers" are not needed, and no, J39089 Coolant pump shaft o-ring protector is not included.
You shouldve got them both to begin with, cause there is information in both that you can and will use if you have them there.
You shouldve got them both to begin with, cause there is information in both that you can and will use if you have them there.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,971
Likes: 9
From: The reason time exists is so everything doesn't happen at once
A few things to keep in mind.
The opti does not have to be removed to change the waterpump, but the wp has to be removed to change the opti. This is why most guys do both at the same time.
If your opti isn't giving you any trouble (and at 45k miles it should be ok) leave it alone to save money. But don't ignore the leaking waterpump. It might seem like a small leak but it can let go without further warning and take out the opti.
Even though you think you've totally drained the cooling system, cover the opti with plastic wrap and shop rags. There may be some coolant left in the wp when you unbolt it from the block and it will get the opti.
If you're going to switch from dexcool to green make sue you get every drop of the old coolant out of the system. The two don't mix and the result is a jelly-like goo that will completely screw up the engine.
Where in NJ are you located? Maybe a member nearby can loan you FSM book 1 or lend a hand.
The opti does not have to be removed to change the waterpump, but the wp has to be removed to change the opti. This is why most guys do both at the same time.
If your opti isn't giving you any trouble (and at 45k miles it should be ok) leave it alone to save money. But don't ignore the leaking waterpump. It might seem like a small leak but it can let go without further warning and take out the opti.
Even though you think you've totally drained the cooling system, cover the opti with plastic wrap and shop rags. There may be some coolant left in the wp when you unbolt it from the block and it will get the opti.
If you're going to switch from dexcool to green make sue you get every drop of the old coolant out of the system. The two don't mix and the result is a jelly-like goo that will completely screw up the engine.
Where in NJ are you located? Maybe a member nearby can loan you FSM book 1 or lend a hand.
Last edited by jrzvette; Jul 26, 2007 at 11:12 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,117
Likes: 1
From: Central NJ
does the "J39089 Coolant pump shaft o-ring protector" need to be replaced, idk why its mentioned in the manual.
Im near clinton, I think I can tackle the task myself, it seems straightfoward. Ive pulled honda heads, water pumps, timing belts and replaced everything with no problems, so I think this should go the same way.
A very nice forum member sent me scans, 4 pages, from book 1 which include details on it.
Would you recommend me draining all the coolant out prior to wp removal and filling with regular water then run, let cool drain, then repeating the process 2 more times? I think that should drain/clean out the dexcool in the system.
Will 2 premixed gallons be plenty you guys think?
A few things to keep in mind.
The opti does not have to be removed to change the waterpump, but the wp has to be removed to change the opti. This is why most guys do both at the same time.
If your opti isn't giving you any trouble (and at 45k miles it should be ok) leave it alone to save money. But don't ignore the leaking waterpump. It might seem like a small leak but it can let go without further warning and take out the opti.
Even though you think you've totally drained the cooling system, cover the opti with plastic wrap and shop rags. There may be some coolant left in the wp when you unbolt it from the block and it will get the opti.
If you're going to switch from dexcool to green make sue you get every drop of the old coolant out of the system. The two don't mix and the result is a jelly-like goo that will completely screw up the engine.
Where in NJ are you located? Maybe a member nearby can loan you FSM book 1 or lend a hand.
The opti does not have to be removed to change the waterpump, but the wp has to be removed to change the opti. This is why most guys do both at the same time.
If your opti isn't giving you any trouble (and at 45k miles it should be ok) leave it alone to save money. But don't ignore the leaking waterpump. It might seem like a small leak but it can let go without further warning and take out the opti.
Even though you think you've totally drained the cooling system, cover the opti with plastic wrap and shop rags. There may be some coolant left in the wp when you unbolt it from the block and it will get the opti.
If you're going to switch from dexcool to green make sue you get every drop of the old coolant out of the system. The two don't mix and the result is a jelly-like goo that will completely screw up the engine.
Where in NJ are you located? Maybe a member nearby can loan you FSM book 1 or lend a hand.
A very nice forum member sent me scans, 4 pages, from book 1 which include details on it.
Would you recommend me draining all the coolant out prior to wp removal and filling with regular water then run, let cool drain, then repeating the process 2 more times? I think that should drain/clean out the dexcool in the system.
Will 2 premixed gallons be plenty you guys think?