1990 383 superram system.
Doesnt seem to be working...

I had a Nitrous Works system professionally installed last year at a place located several hours away, but did not try using it until recently while i was waiting to break in the engine. After testing, etc. i still have 900 psi in the tank, and no leaks are noticable. 100 HP jets are currently installed. the system has a WOT switch on the accelerator pedal, an activation button in serial with that, and i have a set of buttons mounted on the plastic cover between the seat adjustment switches with 1. arming, 2. heating, and 3. purge. there is also ,a 30 psi Hobbes switch on the fuel line (system FP is set at 42 psi). Fuel solenoid is connected at the Schraeder valve, and then both have lines to a Plate mounted just after the throttle body. I tested the solenoids by supplying voltage from battery, and they click, click, click, (open and closed) which seems right--(Although I would think that they would just i hit the button, the solenoid goes on and stays on till i release it?) or does it go on and off repeatedly). A voltmeter also shows that they get power through the system.
The bottle heater works. The purge valve purges. I blew compressed air from the bottle line connector to the solenoid, so no blockage. I think I removed the nitrous line at the TB and could get NOS to that point.

We are sure that the WOT switch on the accelerator works.
It does purge. But when i try to use the system, i do not notice any sudden increase in HP or speed. The pressure gauge remains the same. I would expect to see a noticeable decline in pressure when i use it.

I read that one purges to get liquid NOS up closer to the engine. My first question is, how long does one purge? i usually hit it three short bursts, like whoosh, whoosh, whoosh...

secondly, how much pressure should drop on, let's say, a five second burst,ie, from 1200 psi to 900 psi on the gauge?

thirdly, assuming it might be working, shouldnt i feel it? I had always heard that one will certainly feel the kick of the nitrous coming on.

Any thoughts? thanks,

mark

 

sounds like a complex system..............I've never watched my bottle gauge to see if it's pressure is droping..........you will fill an increase in power..........no guessing if it's working.......turn the nos valve off...arm the system, press the pedel too the floor and lessen for the click ........engine off.......if the wot switch s working the system will stay on as long as pedel isFULLY depressed.........I don't know about the gas pressure system your using

 

Thanks! im just using a Nitrous Works 10 lb bottle and a heater. im not feeling a kick when its SUPPOSED to be working, so i think something is not right. 1. Solenoids stay on when armed, or click on and off...secondly, how do you know when your system is fully purged?

Mark

 

Ok get on your mark get set and gooooooooooooooo
Let's see you have a Barry Grant system right
The system is rated at the rear wheels so if you have a 100 hp shot that in right now when you hit it,not as you go down the road
For you new beee's I will try to help you, I suck at words .
Turn your nitrous bottle off,or disconect it.
When you are driving down the road you should have all systems on and floor the gas and the car should try to stall out or almost stall.
If it does not then your fuel noid is not working.If it falls on it's face that is what you want,now you need to hook up the nitrous and purge the nitrous 3 small hits ,should see white on the last hit.
This is all assuming that the nitrous and fuel jets are in place and didn't fall out when you had the nitrous line off at the throttle body.
Take the car and drive it up to 3000 rpm's and hit your button or what ever you use to engauge the nitrous.
Is your car an auto or 6 speed?
The bottle should be at 1100 psi barry grant system only.
If you still get nothing ,do you have a window switch?
Ok now lets try something else.With the hood open and systems on throttle the engine up to 3000 rpm's and click your WOT switch.The engine should take off so only do it for a second.
If all this results in nothing you have an electrical problem which most likely is a fuss or the relay.The 100 shot should knock you out of the drivers seat when you hit it, so get out your test light and it's time to see where the power went
I will be on the CF tomorrow after about 11 am which is after power block TV HST so I will check to see how you are doing

 

I can't help you with your problems but would like to know a couple things if you could please respond or PM me.

1. Do you have any pics of your set up with the SuperRam?
2. Is this a wet or dry system?
3. What did you pay for this professional install?
4. Did you know the shop that did the install, are they reputable? i.e. you have a buddy there?

I'm looking at getting nitrous for my 383 with a SuperRam but I'm very cautious about the whole ordeal. Doesn't seem like to many people are running nitrous with a SuperRam setup!

Good Luck and I hope you get it working properly!

 

ILL POST BACK AFTER ALL THE TESTING. THANKS VERY MUCH.

 

thanks much, i will report back. BTW skateparkdave helped me design this system a few years ago. he had a very nice set of photos and instructions back then, he may still.

 

When I did my system I forgot to set up a folder to hold all the info .
When Skatepark did his I told him to set up a link ,it should still be here on the form if you do a search.
I ran the barry grant system for a long time and it is equal to a 150 shot when using a 100 shot.
I have a dominator and the nos plate system on my 86 that I blew up a few years ago.
I run 9's with the 86 but it is hard to handle ,these cars are not made to go in a streight line.I forgot to ask do you have a retard box?
Some times if that is hooked up wrong it will not let the nitrous noid work.The barry system should be at 1000 psi for optimum performance and fuel presure is to be at 40 psi.
If the bottle is not at 1000 all it will do if to cold is pulsate when you hit the nitrous.If the fuel presure is to high the car will just go slower.
Instead of changing jets I richen or lean the fuel to get it to run faster.

 

again thanks, this weekend i will try the test that you recommend and report back.

 

The gen 7 system is a good computer but you need to watch you air fuel ratio.You also need to weigh the bottle and make sure the bottle has 10 lbs of nitrous in it.Bottle should weigh 15 lbs empty or 15.5 lbs.
With the bottle full it should weigh no less than 25.0 to 25.5 lbs.
Alot of shops that fill the bottle don't know what they are doing so they short you or just fill the bottle with alot of air and very little nitrous.80cf of air weighs alittle over 4 lbs.
The bottle should run to about 17.5 lbs or 18.5 lbs before it runs out of power or nitrous that is useable.
I put all the other shops out of business over here about 2 years ago.
I do pump medical nitrous so you can get a hit when your run is done
If the presure is low because the bottle is cold the engine will surge because of the lack of presure to force the nitrous into the motor.
Hope this helps
The easy way to check your bottle is ,get a bathroom scale and weigh yourself,now pick up the bottle and see what you weigh with the bottle in your hands,subtract the differance.

 

Wow!! How are you pumping medical nitrous?

 

In all things it's whoo you know not what you know

 

True enough... I used to know alot of people who would have gotten fills all the time... and they don't even have cars!!

 

Where is the hobbs switch located? In your description of the system you say it's on the NOS line, which is not correct.

The hobbs switch should be in the fuel line between the schrader and the fuel solenoid.

Regardless, of the thousands of nitrous kit problems I've tracked down over the years, about half of them were hobbs related, the other half were other electrical wiring mistakes. Try taking a set of alligator clips and clipping them from terminal to terminal on the hobbs switch. That will complete the circuit and bypass the hobbs switch.

3, one second bursts of the purge should be enough. The purge isn't 100% necessary so don't sweat too much about it.

I typically see a 3-400 PSI drop in the bottle when I make a full 1/4 mile pass on a 100 shot. The drop will be become more or less dramatic depending on how full the bottle is. A full bottle may only drop 100 PSI, a near empty bottle could go down 5 or 6 hundred. If you're PSI isn't changing at all, the kit is not coming on.

You should most definitely feel the nitrous hit. If your butt meter can't tell the nitrous is on, the system isn't working properly.

 

Thanks for pointing out that my description was innaccurate: the Hobbes switch responds to fuel pressure...if it falls below 30 psi, it will cut off the fuel. In this set up, a fuel line leads from the schraeder valve on the fuel rail to the fuel solenoid. The Hobbes switch is mounted just prior to and inline with the fuel solenoid.

thanks for the purge info. I had read somewhere that one wants liquid nos up the line, and im purging a white cloud of gas. i thought maybe i wasnt purging enough to get the nos up the line. I think i had been, based on what you say, like 3 one second bursts of visible gas.

Thanks also for the desc. of the pressure drop. I get pressure drop (of course) when purging, but not when im going WOT.

do the solenoids go on and stay on or click on and off every second or so when operating? click click click..i thought that they would be triggred on and off, not on/offf/on/off. cause i think that is what is happening.

 

If the noids are clicking you have an electrical problem .
Eather a relay hobbs or window switch not working .

 

If the noids are clicking you have an electrical problem .
Eather a relay hobbs or window switch not working .

 

The noids should stay open the whole time the system is spraying, unless you are using a progressive controller of some kind.

I have seen on more than one occasion where the fuel pressure is fine, the hobbs switch is completing the circuit, everything is fine. Then, you engage the system. The fuel pressure drops off a bit and the hobbs switch kills the system, then the fuel pressure comes back up and the kit comes back on, which causes a pressure drop and the cycle repeats.

It doesn't sound like that's what you've got going on because you don't have any pressure drop in the bottle at all, but I still would bypass the hobbs switch and see what happens.

Good luck!

 

I agree with you. i even checked that my fp was above the cut off. that is one of the first things im gonna do, eliminate the hobbes temporarily.