So I went to start my car and it wont start it cranks fine but when I turn the key to the on position I am not hearing a fuel pump the car is an 86 with 180,000mi so if it wasent replaced it was definitly ready too go. If you can help me out that would be great Thanks, Ray

 

I just went through the pump. mine's an 86E with 131,000 I think it's not the mileage on these pumps, but the age.
Lately there have been about 5 or 6 86's with failed pumps.
It's easy to change, but you need a fuel pressure gauge before you buy a pump.
you need to know if it's fuel or spark before you throw money at it. Unless you are like me, and think your car deserves new parts cause it's carried you all those miles without a whimper.

 

A few things you could check first are: The Fuel Pump fuse, the fuel pump relay, and make sure you have enough gas in the car. As dumb as it sounds, I just worked on one that read over 1/2 a tank and the problem was it was out of gas.

 

...if, after checking with a fuel pressure gauge that you have NO fuel pressure, apply +12 volts to your fuel pump "pins" at your aldl (check your helms manual) and see if you have pressure. if you do, find the fuel pump relay and replace it.

 

When the key is turned "on" the ECM energizes the fuel pump relay (located on the firwall next to the windshield wiper motor) for 2 seconds. This should give the fuel rail enough fuel to start the engine. As soon as you start cranking, the oil pressure switch will close when 4 psi os oil pressure is made. It will run the pump and is a backup for the fuel pump relay.

Check the fuel pump fuse (probably says FR) in the pass side fuel panel. You can energize the fuel pump by using a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to terminal G (lower left pin) and the fuel pump will run until you remove the jumper. You will need a fuel pressure guage to verify if you have fuel pressure at the schrader valve and how much pressure is there. You can use a screwdriver to press the schrader valve to see if fuel comes out once the rail is pressurized. You can also do the terminal G "thing" and check for voltage at the fuel pump connector to ground to make sure you are getting 12v at the pump.

If you have done all these and you still have no pressure, pull the fuel pump and test it outside the tank with 12v and a ground. If the fuel pump does not run, replace it and smile because you did it right.

Oh, if your gas guage is reading incorrectly, you can clean the contact at the sender in the tank on the fuel pump assembley. There is a procedure in the Tech tips.

 

Pull the rubber neck around the gas hole, and unplug the fuel pump electrical harness. Check to see that you are getting voltage with key on. If you are, it's the pump. If no voltage, it's an electical issue. This will at least tell you which side the problem is in.

 

If you do this, you will have to be quick or have someone turn the key for you because if the fuel pump relay and fuel pump fuse is good, you will only get 12v for 2 seconds at the fuel pump connector.

 

Is this a manual car? If it is, just swap the fuel pump relay with the relay next to it, which is the overdrive relay. They are the same relay. This will test the fuel pump relay. Mounted on firewall near wiper motor. If automatic, you'll only have one and this won't apply. Check the wiring insulation on these. They shrink back at the connector, leaving bare wires right next to each other.




If the car pump primes, you need a new relay. If no change, the relay is fine.

 

Good point 86PACER. If the car is a auto, you can get a 4" jumper wire. Have both ends bare and make into the shape of a U. Disconnect the fuel pump relay and stick the jumper wire in the first and last terminal of the relay connector. This will bypass the relay and if it is bad it should prime the pump as soon as the key is turned "on".

So far you have received enough info, to test the out. Do the troubleshooting and let us know.

Also check for spark either with a timing light on the plug wires or by using a spare spark plug. With the spare plug, insert it into at least two different plug wires. Hold the plug ~ 1/2" away from the exhaust manifold and crank the engine or have someone crank it. DO NOT hold the plug while doing this or the experience will be shocking.

 

Thank you all for your help I am going to get started with the troubleshooting tommorrow I will keep you all posted if I run into any more problems Thanks, Ray

 

Let us know what you find out. If you are getting fuel pressure and spark, next would be to check the injector fuses and then the wiring with a noid light.

 

Heres a pic CC posted on a past thread that illustrates the insulation shrinkage I'm talking about. Mine looked similar before fixing it with heat shrink. Some of the wires were almost touching.

 

If you find this heat shrink condition, you can get a can of liquid electrick tape and coat the wiring (each wire) for a quick fix. Other than that you will have to take the wiring apart and fix.

 

This is the way I always do it as I find it easier. The thing is, the pump will run as soon as you touch the jumper to the first and last terminals. No need for key to be turned "on". Pin E, the last terminal of the connector is always hot.

 

Thank you Ray for correcting my statement. It's been almost 2 years since I did that on my 86. :o

 

Ok so i replaced the pump and now it goes on again and I have fuel pressure but now I have no spark I did not test for spark before I replaced the pump but the pump was defanantly bad and now no spark Im stumped