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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
go to Summit Racing.com, they have like 10 different brands and prices
I'm not shopping price for the sake of price.
The question is, do I need Crane golds at $300 or can I get away with "other" for less than $200?
If I NEED the Cranes I'll get the Cranes. I just don't think with the way I'm putting this together I NEED them, and I'm looking for validation on that point.
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
Originally Posted by jsup
OK, here we go.
I just picked up a Super Ram and some Valve covers from forum members. It is my intent to get them powder coated before installation.
Since I already have the intake and VCs off, I figure the easiest thing to do is replace the rockers with rollers.
I am looking at 1.6 rollers for the stock heads, perhaps the Crane Gold.
Here's my questions.
1. The stock springs, any problem going to 1.6 ratio with those springs?
2. Do I need to spend $300 on Cranes? Is there a less expensive, just as good alternitive?
3. I assume the stock heads have 3/8s studs. Should I, and can I, put in 7/16ths studs?
TIA.
LT4's use 1.6 Cranes. You can use the GMPP 101# LT4 springs. They are under $35 for a set of 16 from several suppliers. You can go to 7/16's studs but there is no need. There is a recent RR thread with links to supplers. BTW many report Crane Golds to be noisy.
I used the LT4 springs when I switched to the Crane Gold Roller rockers. Can't comment on other brands, but there is no noise and quality components. I did install new pushrods at the same time.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by BADDUCK
LT4's use 1.6 Cranes. You can use the GMPP 101# LT4 springs. They are under $35 for a set of 16 from several suppliers. You can go to 7/16's studs but there is no need. There is a recent RR thread with links to supplers. BTW many report Crane Golds to be noisy.
This may be a stupid question......I'm not taking the heads off, can valve springs be changed without removing the heads.......
This may be a stupid question......I'm not taking the heads off, can valve springs be changed without removing the heads.......
I know, stupid question....
No need to remove the heads. You may want to change the seals while your there to if mileage is high. You can use just about any rocker you would like. If you do not use a narrow body rocker then you may have to trim the valve covers. You mentioned getting different covers so I am not sure fitment issues with what you got.
Bigger studs are nice as is a full roller, but they would help the most at higher RPM. I would recomend the larger stud and a full roller for going more RPM then stock but becareful of to much with the stock short block.
If you get the LT4 springs I think they handle lift to .525 so if you want to do a large cam in the future make sure that lift is enough for you or you will be buying springs twice.
As mentioned no need to remove the heads, some guys like the "rope trick" to prevent the valves from dropping if you don't have access to an air compressor. Details should be easy to find with the search function.
Like others I used the LT4 springs with Crane Gold rockers, great buy and work well.
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
Originally Posted by jsup
This may be a stupid question......I'm not taking the heads off, can valve springs be changed without removing the heads.......
I know, stupid question....
You don't need anything but full RR's, new springs, and keepers. Get narrow self aligning aluminum full RR's. Your stock rods, guideplates, etc. can be reused.
All you have to do is pull the plugs and VC's. A spring compressor can be rented. No reason to change things that are good.
I guess the Crane Gold are the best RR. I have the Comp Pro Magnums. I got the kit that came with new pushrods. I have no complaints and they are a little cheaper. I would upgrade the springs at the same time.
Yes you need new springs as the LT1 springs are very close to binding. LT4 springs are cheap and will do the job. I'd get new retainers, keys, and shims too. Nothing else needs to be changed out but you will probably want new oil seals as this is the time to do it and they are worn out. Whatever the rockers, make sure they are self-aligning.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by Hotred94
Yes you need new springs as the LT1 springs are very close to binding. LT4 springs are cheap and will do the job. I'd get new retainers, keys, and shims too. Nothing else needs to be changed out but you will probably want new oil seals as this is the time to do it and they are worn out. Whatever the rockers, make sure they are self-aligning.
Thanks, it's a 90 so it's an L98, which is why I'm going super ram. I took for granted that was a given.
Anyway, thanks guys, I think I have enough to go on.
The car has 30K miles and isn't burning a drop of oil, so I'm not going to mess with the seals.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
So is it consensus that I can't go wrong with Comp Pro Magnums or CC Pro Mags? Or are those one in the same? I don't want to be chep, I want to do it right, but not throw money away on brand name, Crane, if there's no reason to.
Here's are links to compare. I got the roller tips and they work great and are quiet. They give additional lift and about 15 more chp on a
L98. I'm not sure if the full rollers are much better. I was told that the stock push rods are short and flex. That's why I got the Comp Pro Magnum kit, it comes with better pushrods.