Service Selective Ride Control Light
) when the light came on. I have done some searching on the forums and understand the most common problem is a broken actuator. My question is, is the brief flash of the light and indication of things to come? The manual referenced the dial being out of position would cause the light to come on, but I dont think it was.

To clear FX3 codes, turn the ignition to Run but don't start the engine. With a small paperclip, jump pins A and C on the ALDL (in the upper left corner of the driver' side knee bolster). These pins are on the upper row and are lettered in this fashion as you look at them: E D C B A
To clear the codes, you must jump the pins for two seconds doing it for a total of three times.
To display the codes (which is simply a series of flashes of the SRC message) jump the pins and turn the ignition to Run and watch the SRC message lamp.
Codes are two digit values and the sequence always begins and ends with a code "12". The SRC light flashes based on each integer of the code and the code repeats three times with a couple of seconds between each code value. For example a Code 12 flashes like this:
12= blink, blink blink / blink, blink blink / blink, blink blink
(there is a about a half second "/" pause between each of the three code integers)
A code 32 is:
32= blink blink blink, blink blink (and repeats twice more)
After all of the codes have been displayed there is a final code 12 and the sequence repeats until you either pull the jumper or turn the ignition off
Here is the code meanings:
Code 12 = Start of sequence
Code 13 = Left Rear Time Out (possible broken gear on shock rod)
Code 14 = Right Front Time Out (same)
Code 21 = Left Front Time Out (same)
Code 22 = Right Rear Time Out (same)
Code 23 = Loss of vehicle speed signal (this code will appear if the ignition switch is cycled On/OFF three times without the vehicle moving. Once the vehicle moves and there are no other codes the SRC light will go OFF but this code remains in history)
Code 31 = Left Front Out of Position (possible bad actuator)
Code 32 = Right Front Out of Position (same)
Code 33 = Left Rear Out of Position (same)
Code 34 = Right Rear Out of position (same)
Code 41 = SRC Switch short to Voltage
Code 42 = SRC Switch open contacts (console switch not positioned at one of the three detents
Code 43 = SRC switch circuit open.
Give this a try and report what codes you get. Remember, a Code 12 starts the sequence and also ends it. Any other codes are repeated three times before the next code is displayed.
Sorry I had to go out of town for a few days, but I did try and pull the codes and came up with only one code H60. Then I got to thinking, I have an LT4 with ODB-II, can I pull the codes on an ODB-II or do I have to run it through a scanner?
If I did it right, no codes came back but H60.
I didn't catch the avatar either but there are times when somebody asks about a problem with his car without posting the year or options in spite of an avatar that points to a particular year. It has happened where somebody was actually asking about an different year Vette.
As to your code, what you need now is for somebody to chime in with a 96 FSM that can give you specifics about the "paper-clip" procedure for pulling FX3 codes on OBD-II cars or at least tell you what Code H60 means for the FX3 system. The OBD-I ALDL has fewer pins than the OBD-II ALDL so the two pins to connect may not be A and C.
A scan tool will display the proper codes for diagnostics but the paper-clip trick requires that you count the "blinks" from the SRC light and determine the two-digit values so that it can be found in the FSM.
In any event, an intermittent SRC light can be hard to figure out. A component that has gone bad (be it an actuator or gear on the shock rod) will usually cause the SRC light to come on and stay on.
It's possible that an actuator may be loose or the wire connector could be loose so check for the metal C-clip that hold the actuator to the top of the shock and that the wire connector is tight.
That's easy to do for the front shocks, but for the rears, you will have to raise the rear of the car and remove the rear shocks. The actuator is hidden up in the frame rail and the only way to get to is is to remove the shock.
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Normally I do post my year and model, but overlooked it in this case...
I will look at the actuators and see if there is a loose wire...I notice I get the light at higher speeds, but there really is no pattern to it...plus I have another problem now...noticed tranmission slipping in 5th and 6th gear going up inclines on way to work today...









