Had a problem starting my 89 6 speed yesterday. The key wouldn't turn and it appears the cylinder is moving out (to the right) 1/8th inch. It's physically loose. After moving it around and gorilla'ing it a bit I got it to start. I'm guessing I'll be replacing the cylinder lock via http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...5&dept_id=1722 and http://www.clksupplies.com/shop/inde...cPath=24_26_66 has keys.

Looking for feedback from anyone who's done this before. Do I need the Lock Plate Compressor the shop manual refers to, (page 3F3-9)? Any other gotchas?

Thanks,
Jeff

 

You can pick up a replacement cyl at any parts store for $20-25. Or you can pay your local locksmith $125 to do the job for you.

My roommate is a locksmith. He helped me to do mine.

You will need the special tool to do the job. You will also need to find out what frequency your key is set at so that the new key can be cut. You local bog box retailer can not cut the key for you.

The money for a locksmith is worth it. Takes them about an hour to hour and a half. The key cutting is part of the money. Job is done right, your turn signal is not messed up, the security stuff is hooked up right, and best part is you only cussed about the money.

 

I couldn't find a less expensive lock than the one from Ecklers and both a local GM dealer and a locksmith quoted almost $300 installed with 2 keys. I found a local guy who'll loan me the tool so I'm going to try it myself.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

I replaced mine along with a few other things in the column, making sure the wheels are straight, disconnect the battery, pull the airbag fuse and wait 10min. 30 is better 2 tork screws hold the airbag module to the wheel, remove them and the module, unplug and store face up in a safe location. loosen the nut that holds the wheel on but do not remove, use a wheel puller to break the wheel loose, remove the nut and the steering wheel. Now using a snapring plyer remove the ring holding the airbag coil and gently pull it out and let it hang, don't rotate the center use the lockplate tool to compress the plate and remove the wave washer and lockring. That ring was a pain, i bent a hook in the end of a mini screwdriver to help remove it. you'll see what i mean. Now hold on, you're almost there, Remove the 2 screws that hold the metal wishbone looking piece to the left side of the turn signal switch and remove that piece. Push the hazzard button in, remove the button and the 3 screws that hold the turn signal switch to the column housing and pull the switch out to gain access to the ignition lock cyl.
you will have to activate the turn signal switch to gain access to one of the screws. Now pull out the buzzer switch, it just pushes in a square slot. take out the ignition cyl. locking screw. you can now pull it from the housing. Find the connector toward the bottom of the column,unplug, and fasten a piece of wire to it so you can pull the new one back down the column. Now just put everything back together in reverse order. Good Luck

 

A few thing's i left out, remove the carpeted hush panel under the column and the plastic wire protector at the base where the wires come out, just squeez the end and wiggle it as you pull down on it.

 

While not something I'd want to do everyday, it wasn't too bad. Having a steering wheel puller, the plate compressor tool and a FSM sure made life easier. No air bag to worry about on my 89. The ign cylinder has a ramp that pushes a piston/spring back as you turn on the car. This ramp on my old one had a nice divot in it after 18 yrs and wouldn't allow me to turn it on. The new one is silky smooth.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

Glad it worked out for you