C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

rearend swap

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Old Nov 5, 2001 | 04:42 PM
  #1  
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Default rearend swap

i need to know if a dana 36 out of a 91 will fit in a 86 with a dana 36 in it no mods.?
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Old Nov 5, 2001 | 05:15 PM
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Default Re: rearend swap (choda)

It should be a totally straightforward 1 for 1 swap. Have fun with that Torque-Arm. I HATE that thing!!
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Old Nov 5, 2001 | 06:19 PM
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Default Re: rearend swap (BobMachus)

IS THE TOURCH ARM THAT HARD ? HOW?
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Old Nov 5, 2001 | 06:36 PM
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Default Re: rearend swap (choda)

IS THE TOURCH ARM THAT HARD ? HOW?
It is just a PITA to get a wrench up to the nuts on top of the thing. you have to remove the exhaust, then get a wrench (7/8 or 17mm, I think, I don't remember right now) on the nuts on top of the torque-arm to remove the bolts.

Once those are off (two at tranny and two at diff) the rest is pretty easy. I just skinned my knuckles alot and got lots of wierd arm/hand cramps from trying to hold a wrench up there, that's all.

Oh yeah, and a pretty good wound on my forehead from the time the wrench slipped out of my hands and fell onto my face. Funny now, just added to my frustration-turning-to-rage at the time. :)


[Modified by BobMachus, 3:47 PM 11/5/2001]
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Old Nov 5, 2001 | 06:46 PM
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Default Re: rearend swap (BobMachus)

so its not as easy as it sounds. but is it worth the change 2.73 to 3.75?
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Old Nov 5, 2001 | 06:51 PM
  #6  
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Default Re: rearend swap (choda)

I have every intention of doing it again when I find a Dana 44 3.07. now that I have done it once, I can do it again faster. I ended up making some custom tools (went to the Pawn shop, bought box end wrenches the right size, cut, bent and welded them to reach the nuts and lock against the torque-arm, that way they stayed in place and I didn't have to hold them. I am sure if you do it, you will think I was exxagerating. I was just so frustrated and PO'ed at the time, it seemed like hell. Don't be afraid of the job, just be ready to be patient. I am sure it will make a huge difference in SOTP performance. Those 3.73's will feel fast!
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Old Nov 5, 2001 | 08:22 PM
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Default Re: rearend swap (choda)

Just swapped my rear 2 weeks ago. You don't have to remove the exhaust. I have a vert and I was worried about removing the cross brace while it was on jack stands so I left it on. You can't get the exhaust off with the x-brace on. Here's a couple of tips.

1. disconnect the rear exhaust hangers and the ones the connect to the diff.

2. remove the lower rear control arms before the half shafts. this alows easier acces to the u joint bolts.

3. Go buy an air rachet!! Saves tons of time. Especially on the u joint bolts.

4. a chunk of 2x4 comes in handy to nudge the exhuast. :smash: when it's a little in the way. :)

5. To remove the torque arm, Get either an adjustable wrench or a open end wrench. Start with the bolt towards the front of the car. Put the wrench on the top bolt with those extra eyeballs on your finger tips. :lol: When you turn the bottom bolt the wrench will turn and stop on the tunnel. Then remove. An impact wrench did make it nice and easy. Getting the bolt out with the exhaust in the way was tricky, but that 2x4 adjusted the exhasut just enough to slid them out.

6. remove the tie rods from the diff and from 1 of the spindles. This will allow you to swing it out of the way.

7. leave the 2 bolts that hold the rear in for last.

8. A jack under the exhaust pipes where they cross under the diff will hold everything up to drop the rear onto the pipes.

9. Lower jack some and move diff around and thread it out the back. Not as difficult as it sounds. The exhaust will drop a good 3"-4".

10. Install in reverse order. I was worried about getting the diff back in by myself but it wasn't bad at all.

Have fun

Jim
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Old Nov 5, 2001 | 08:23 PM
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Default Re: rearend swap (choda)

Piece of cake. I got that swap down to 2 hours.
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