A different lowering question....
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
From: NYC....In the Place to be!
A different lowering question....
....at least I hope so.
I just want to state that I searched the archives for this answer and could not locate it....so here goes.
Is it possible to lower the rear of my CE vert using the existing factory bolts/nuts? and is it safe?
I really just want to lower her about 1/2 inch. nothing crazy.....if this is not possible, then what size bolt should I go with to obtain 1/2 inch drop?
thank you in advance!
I just want to state that I searched the archives for this answer and could not locate it....so here goes.
Is it possible to lower the rear of my CE vert using the existing factory bolts/nuts? and is it safe?
I really just want to lower her about 1/2 inch. nothing crazy.....if this is not possible, then what size bolt should I go with to obtain 1/2 inch drop?
thank you in advance!
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,966
Likes: 710
From: WI
....at least I hope so.
I just want to state that I searched the archives for this answer and could not locate it....so here goes.
Is it possible to lower the rear of my CE vert using the existing factory bolts/nuts? and is it safe?
I really just want to lower her about 1/2 inch. nothing crazy.....if this is not possible, then what size bolt should I go with to obtain 1/2 inch drop?
thank you in advance!
I just want to state that I searched the archives for this answer and could not locate it....so here goes.
Is it possible to lower the rear of my CE vert using the existing factory bolts/nuts? and is it safe?
I really just want to lower her about 1/2 inch. nothing crazy.....if this is not possible, then what size bolt should I go with to obtain 1/2 inch drop?
thank you in advance!
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,773
Likes: 179
From: Rolla Missouri
2021 C4 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10 thru '25
In most cases, from the factory the nut is already as low on the bolt as it can go.
As Aarwold said, there is a cotter pin going through the factory bolt. DO NOT take that cotter pin out and move the nut any lower. If you can't move the nut lower and still leave the cotter pin in place, then you will need to get longer bolts.
As Aarwold said, there is a cotter pin going through the factory bolt. DO NOT take that cotter pin out and move the nut any lower. If you can't move the nut lower and still leave the cotter pin in place, then you will need to get longer bolts.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,409
Likes: 400
From: Lakeville MI
You can relocate the shims where the spring mounts to the batwing.
Placing all the shims below the spring, raises the spring relative to the rest of the car which will have a slight lowering effect.
You may get up to 1/2" depending upon where the shims are now.
Placing all the shims below the spring, raises the spring relative to the rest of the car which will have a slight lowering effect.
You may get up to 1/2" depending upon where the shims are now.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
From: NYC....In the Place to be!
The data is there but the search does not always work that well. You can lower the car with the stock bolts but if you go past the hole in the bolt from the cotter key, you risk snapping the bolt off. You will not get much drop without new bolts. Unless you have a good supplier local, it might be better to just buy the kit. There was a recent topic over in gen about the bolts being on Ebay. I picked up new bolts when I got poly cushions. The rubber cushions were pretty bad.
Thanks guys.
I saw that thread....it was quite informative. I'm not too worried about the price since if it gets me where I want to be. but then again $15 vs $40 is a nice savings that can go towards gas!
So it looks like I should go with the 8 inch bolt. I'm just worried that it will drop an inch or more. If i recall correctly I can control the drop by counting the number of threads. I'll eventually figure it out.
Now POLY vs. Rubber bushings. is there any advantage in going with the POLY's if lowering? My experience in the past with poly bushings is that they can be noisy. Is that true with some of you folks?
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,966
Likes: 710
From: WI
Thanks guys.
I saw that thread....it was quite informative. I'm not too worried about the price since if it gets me where I want to be. but then again $15 vs $40 is a nice savings that can go towards gas!
So it looks like I should go with the 8 inch bolt. I'm just worried that it will drop an inch or more. If i recall correctly I can control the drop by counting the number of threads. I'll eventually figure it out.
Now POLY vs. Rubber bushings. is there any advantage in going with the POLY's if lowering? My experience in the past with poly bushings is that they can be noisy. Is that true with some of you folks?
I saw that thread....it was quite informative. I'm not too worried about the price since if it gets me where I want to be. but then again $15 vs $40 is a nice savings that can go towards gas!
So it looks like I should go with the 8 inch bolt. I'm just worried that it will drop an inch or more. If i recall correctly I can control the drop by counting the number of threads. I'll eventually figure it out.
Now POLY vs. Rubber bushings. is there any advantage in going with the POLY's if lowering? My experience in the past with poly bushings is that they can be noisy. Is that true with some of you folks?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
Likes: 4,009
From: Texas
...and if you were going to change bolts, you're 5 minutes away from having this done.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 2
From: port charlotte fl
Just did mine and here's the results. I had the stock 8" bolt with castelated nut and pin.I bought some 10" high tensile bolts with nylock nuts and found that a two and a half inch increase in the bolt length gave me about an inch and a half drop in the rear. Bear in mind the factory nut sits about an inch or so up from the end of the bolt.Now I have to get some twelve inch to achieve the drop that I want. I can't see moving shims around could achieve anything but maybe other peoples cars are different.
Last edited by staugur; Aug 21, 2007 at 02:19 PM.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
From: NYC....In the Place to be!
Just did mine and here's the results. I had the stock 8" bolt with castelated nut and pin.I bought some 10" high tensile bolts with nylock nuts and found that a two and a half inch increase in the bolt length gave me about an inch and a half drop in the rear. Bear in mind the factory nut sits about an inch or so up from the end of the bolt.Now I have to get some twelve inch to achieve the drop that I want. I can't see moving shims around could achieve anything but maybe other peoples cars are different.