When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well, the worst part of installing a cam is removing the radiator.
Since I'm getting a ration of crap (not really) about not putting in a cam, tell me, How difficult is it to remove the radiator? 1990 L98
Thanks....
Radiator is not bad on my 87, don't see why a 90 would be hard. The hard part is putting back the AC, smog pump/hoses & stuff, PS pump. Every bolt has to go in a certain hole , some metric, some 3/8. All different.
To remove the radiator, I took out air filter assy, the top radiator shroud, disconnected the coolant hoses, disconnected the ATF lines from the rad and the radiator was free. Its like a one hour job.
If you have an automatic, you will loose a very small amount of tranny fluid, but don't worry about it. Soak the tranny line connections for 24 hours. While the radiator is out now is a good time to clean the outside ofit with some Simple Green to get road debris, small pebbles, etc. You can also clean the surrounding area as well as the a/c condensor. You will be suprised at what you will see.
Radiator is not bad on my 87, don't see why a 90 would be hard. The hard part is putting back the AC, smog pump/hoses & stuff, PS pump. Every bolt has to go in a certain hole , some metric, some 3/8. All different.
How long should it take a Vette Mechanic/shop to change the cam? How much do they typically charge?
Most shops around town charge about $600-$800 for a cam swap. For most people, its a full day job. I've have to check ALLDATA to confirm how many hours it takes with a typical shop rate of $60/hr. But still, I'd save my money and do it myself!
I changed my radiator. I installed a new Dewitt's. It was simple and easy. Tell my how the cam goes. I'm looking at the Lingenfelter 211. I might tackle it myself. Never did one before.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by Kool88vette
I changed my radiator. I installed a new Dewitt's. It was simple and easy. Tell my how the cam goes. I'm looking at the Lingenfelter 211. I might tackle it myself. Never did one before.
I'm still debating the cam. The radiator is 1/2 the equation. Then I have to drop the front oil pan, the timing cover, etc....etc....etc..... Looking for trouble IMO.
Real PIA which is why I wasn't going to do it.
If I wait, and save my nickles, I can pay someone to do the **** work for me.......
Just sayin....
The cam part itself is easy, it's GETTING to it that's hard. If the motor is out of the car, it's a peice of cake. If I'm going to go that far, WTF, I'll do the whole dam thing.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by onedef92
Take care you don't break your A/C lines or fittings. I did that on my '92 and had to sub it out to a shop to repair the broken line.
AHHHH, the high cost of being cheap. Been there, done that. Education costs....that's why I'm asking all these stupid questions here before I turn wrench 1.
Most shops around town charge about $600-$800 for a cam swap. For most people, its a full day job. I've have to check ALLDATA to confirm how many hours it takes with a typical shop rate of $60/hr. But still, I'd save my money and do it myself!
Originally Posted by Kool88vette
I changed my radiator. I installed a new Dewitt's. It was simple and easy. Tell my how the cam goes. I'm looking at the Lingenfelter 211. I might tackle it myself. Never did one before.
I'm also considering doing this myself. I did my Dewitt swap too. If I swap my own cam, I would probably do my Opti, EWP, Timing chain, and Balancer while in there. Getting the front area/radiator cleared out doesn't bother me. I'm guessing that's where a good part of the labor hours are at. What concerns me is getting the cam and all the extras installed correctly.
Last edited by rickneworleansla; Aug 22, 2007 at 01:31 PM.
The top auto trans cooler line is easy, the bottom on mine had some rust. I sprayed it then tried to loosen it, the metal tube of the line wanted to turn with the fitting. I stopped, and over a week kept spraying it, then it turned OK. I have a trans cooler on there now so I don't have to worry about it again. If I did, I would highly polish the line, removing some dia, and keep some grease in there or paint it.
OK, if I get up the stones to do the cam, are you all going to tell me that I really have to do the heads too, or it's a waste of time?
never a waste of time ....you don't have too, but if you're that far w/intaket cover etc. why not at least have them gone through, that doesn't mean while you're in there put in a 383
BTW, what no-one mentioned was the 3 sh**ty screws on each side of that shroud that you can barely remove (1990)....once removed take the clip style nuts from the bottom part of the shroud and put them on the top part of the shroud instead. This will allow easy reassembly through the front air dam opening.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Originally Posted by mseven
never a waste of time ....you don't have too, but if you're that far w/intaket cover etc. why not at least have them gone through, that doesn't mean while you're in there put in a 383
BTW, what no-one mentioned was the 3 sh**ty screws on each side of that shroud that you can barely remove (1990)....once removed take the clip style nuts from the bottom part of the shroud and put them on the top part of the shroud instead. This will allow easy reassembly through the front air dam opening.
Next thread:
So I have the engine, trans, and suspension out I was thinking.........