C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

What Nitrous System?

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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 01:48 AM
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Default What Nitrous System?

I have a 1990 with 60k miles in just amazing shape. The previous owner put on a Borla Exhaust and a installed a Hypertech chip. Now to be honest im a complete Nitrous newb who has about as much knowledge as a Fast/Furious junkie. I read the Nitrous 101 posted by jkvette (i think?) which was really helpful. I know everything bout packing air in and all that i just didnt understand the details that make nitrous work. So to get to my question, i'm 16 and on my second vette sold my first, didnt crash it! O and i bought my cars with all my own money, my parents werent gonna buy my car so i decided to buy something im not gonna loose money on and a car that know parent would buy there child. I'm not a tard driver i get passed by everybody on the freeway who can speed and get away with it, but i dont want to get beat out by some pocket rocket either when the time comes so cheap solution, Nos it up. So what im wondering is what in your guy's oppinions is the best beginner nitrous kit to get? I'd like to stay in the lower 600's and dont want anything more then 100 hp. What kit would give me that and come with the more important and neccessary safeguard like WOT switch, Fuel press saftey switch, and rpm window switch. Oh and one more question in one of the posts i was reading about how in order to not snap your drivetrain to do two hits of nitrous at like 75 horse each so would that be like u would have two different arming buttons hit one wait a couple secs and then hit the other one or is that done electronically and u only have to arm the system once? I guess that is sort of a Fast/Furious based queston cause most of those rice burners have twin nos switchs, but i'm just curious. Thanks
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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 03:03 PM
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1) YOU MUST PULL THE HYPERTECK CHIP!!!! the chip retards the spark and that will not be good if you throw nirtous into the equation.

2) I am in the same boat you are (im 19) and i am still shopping for my no2 kit. barry grant, nos, zex seem to be the popular kits. barry grant and nos have a plate system which is good for wet... i guess. zex has a good safe system... again this is what i have heard. If i was going to get a dry system it would be a zex. but a wet system seems to be the more used system. I am shopping, and have been for a while. I dont want to rush into anything and get the wrong system.
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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 06:47 PM
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I wrote the nitrous 101 thing that you read. My website is www.jkvette.cz28.com

Anyway, there are lots of options out there for a kit. I honestly think you can build a kit out of separate components cheaper than you can buy a complete system, but you'll kinda have to hunt on E-bay and stuff.

Just about any of the kits you see advertised will work fine for what you are wanting to do. I like the kits from TNT:

http://texasnitroustechnology.com/st...a25ecc5c6f835e

NOS-05151 doesn't come with any safety devices, all you get is a WOT switch and an arming switch. Other than those 2 things, it's a complete kit though.

I don't have any experience with the ZEX kits or the Barry Grant system, but any of them that come with a window switch and fuel pressure safety switch could be considered basically complete.

Good luck!
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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 07:24 PM
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After a lot of research i got a Barry Grant--Nitrous kit for my 90, L98. it is a wet system that comes with a plate you insert between the plenum and the throttle body. One solenoid is connected to the nos tank, the other to the schrader port on the fuel rail.
The kit does not come with any safety features, like the Hobbes, or rpm window. in addition to the basic kit and whatever safety features, you will prolly want to get a gauge, a line and connector for the gauge, and heater, and a blanket and connections for all those things, both for the lines and for the electrical: ie, relays and switches. And dont forget purge. another thing not in the kit.
u can prolly save money by looking for a used set up on ebay. for a hundred shot, you wont need to worry about controllers for dual activation, etc.
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 01:57 AM
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Thanks for the replys! Alright one more question, how much nitrous does it take per hit. Lets say in a 1/4 mile race how much nitrous would you use? And if all you want it for is for short everynow and then races do you need the bottle warmer, blanket, purger, gauge, and all the more detailed things? Thanks
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 02:16 AM
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You should use about 1 lb. of nitrous per 100 HP per 10-12 seconds. I get about 10 passes at the drag strip out of my 10 lb. bottle on a 100 shot.

The heater is probably the most critical of the add ons you listed. If you live somewhere that isn't 80+ degrees year round, keeping the bottle pressure up is pretty tough. Especially if the bottle isn't 100% full. Without 800+ PSI in the bottle, the nitrous really won't perform like it should.

A bottle heater is just what it sounds like, a device that heats the bottle. It's a small rubber mat with some velcro straps that will allow you to wrap it around the bottle. There are a couple wires coming out of the rubber mat that are attached to a heating element hidden within the mat. Once wired up and turned on, the rubber mat gets hot. Adding heat to the bottle makes the pressure go up.

Without a pressure gauge you'll be shooting in the dark, but I think most kits come with a bottle mounted gauge now so you should be good to go there.

So, one cool day in the Fall you look at the gauge and it only reads 400 PSI. You turn on your bottle heater, and in about 20 minutes the gauge reads 800 PSI. Now your nitrous system will work as intended, with only 400 PSI in the bottle, you'd probably go slower if you engaged the kit.

If you're rolling down the freeway and Joe Ricer catches you with only 400 PSI in the tank, there's really not much you can do. The heater will take time to bring the pressure up, and usually the spontaneous freeway encounters I've had don't involve a lot of prep time. I turn my heater on every time I get in the car. It's a habit now, like putting on my seatbelt.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 07:54 AM
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I'm running a Zex 125 kit, now with 150 jets. No controller. I bought the kit without bottle for less than $500 new on Ebay. I bought a 15lb bottle from Michigan Cylinder, with gauge and fittings, for $175. I bought the racer's tuning kit (purge, heater, blowdown tube) for less than $300. My bottle keeps around 750 to 800 psi unheated. The Zex kit adds fuel according to bottle pressure. If my pressure is lower than 950 I get less hp, so at 700 psi I probably get 100hp from the 150 jets. Works nice on the street when no time to heat bottle. Other kits add the same amount of fuel no matter what the bottle pressure is, so if your pressure is down you will be pig rich and not go faster at all. Zex is the way to go for any street use in my opinion. I made a little plastic L-shaped piece and mounted above my knee when in the driver's seat for the purge button, activation switch, and heater switch. Can't be seen without leaning down and looking. I purge a little bit right before I take off, then I just floor it, then hit the activation switch when the tach hits 2500 or so RPM's, which is more like 2800 since the digital tach lags behind when accelerating hard. If you are careful not to activate too early and blow your piston rings into the oil pan then you don't really need a window switch. Need one for manuals in case you miss a gear, tho. I had to eliminate the pcv valve from one valve cover and the tube from the other valve cover and put open breathers on both and plug the ports on the intake that the hoses went to. When I ran with the pcv system and hit the nitrous it blew oil up and out the dipstick tube. With open breathers that problem is gone.

Last edited by dan0617; Aug 24, 2007 at 07:57 AM.
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 01:22 PM
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dan how much of your motor is stock??? i have heard the 100 hp is the max on stock motor.
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 01:54 PM
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100 HP is pretty safe on the stock motor. 150 seems to be upper limit for stock stuff. I've hit my car with close to 200 a few times and it has survived thus far.
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by rube1975
dan how much of your motor is stock??? i have heard the 100 hp is the max on stock motor.
My motor is bone stock. 1.6RR's and headers. With a 75 shot I can use the pcv system. Any more than that and I have to use breathers. I don't know if anyone else has this problem or not. I am currently in the process of modifying my stock air pump to use for crankcase evac. If you are going to use it on a regular basis I would stay with a 100 or maybe 125 shot. If used once or twice a month, I feel safe with a 150 shot. I feel if I were to hit it all the time I'd be needing a new bottom end (pistons, rings).

200 Neat?? I'll bet your a**hole was puckered up waiting for the BANG!!
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 05:50 PM
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+1 for the Zex kit.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 02:55 AM
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Default Nitrous

NOS nitrous kit off 85 Corvette

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1809831

Thanks
Jerry
Corvettejer@mchsi.com
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