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Is anyone using(more specifically the one piece seal version) this pan? For those that are are you having any leaking problems? I am on my 92 and was wondering if I need to use the gasket listed on Canton's site? Also what is the true capacity? Some places it's listed as 7 quarts while I've seen others where it's listed a 6; 7 with the filter.
I have had two Canton RR pans and the quality is poor. I never could get rid of the leaks nor could a Corvette shop. I am not the only one here that has complained about leak problems with these pans either. When I installed the factory pan I never had a leak.
You have to use their gasket and pan,but if the rear seal is leaking someone did not use the tool to set up the crank and rear seal at the same time
The aftermarket oil pan gasket is a close fit but around the rear seal and at the timing cover the aftermarket is just a little bit bigger and squeezes out the gasket on the inside of the oil pan.They also have a weld problem and cracks.
I used the felpro one piece blue (all rubber of some kind) gasket. It doesn't leak but the freakin pan has pin holes in the welds in a few places. I fixed the worst one already... having my own mig welder has its advantages. But for the price, I'm not all that satisfied. It does hold between 6 & 7 quarts while still keeping the oil level lower than the stock pan. This keeps oil away from the crank during "spirited" driving.
I've used two Cantons with no leaks or any issues. The first was replaced due to damage from road debris-no fault of manufacturer.
I run 7 quarts in the system...but some have better luck with 8 total if using race tires. I may end up trying that to avoid any oil pressure loss in the corners.
I use the Chevy OEM 1 piece oil pan gasket...similarly priced as Fel Pro.
The only advice I can say is to not use the stock pan rail reinforcement.
I haven't used on my Canton (as per TjWong suggeston) and it never leaks.
-Beppe-
By the way, is the L98 windage tray needed with the Canton road race oil pan?
No. In addition you'll need to replace the main cap bolts the tray bolts to or they'll interfere with the tray in the Canton pan. You'll also need the Canton oil pump pickup.
Do I definitely need the Canton Pickup or can I use the one that came with my HV pump?
You NEED the canton pickUp !
The correct distance from the bottom of the the pan it's critical.
From the pic it seems you have the new weak casting on the melling pump.
-Beppe-
Does anybody know what the correct pickup to pan distance is?
I'd like to mod the one I have but can't find a picture of the correct Canton Pickup on the internet.
Does anybody know what the correct pickup to pan distance is?
I'd like to mod the one I have but can't find a picture of the correct Canton Pickup on the internet.
I can't tell you how impressed I am that you got that pan out with the motor in place.
No problem if you remove the two struts and if you can keep the gasket where it should be. You don't even have to lift the engine.
Up to now I did this 4 times on C4 Vettes.
Does anybody know what the correct pickup to pan distance is?
I'd like to mod the one I have but can't find a picture of the correct Canton Pickup on the internet.
In the pic below of my engine you can see the Canton pickup in the top right. The pickup is significantly different than the stock assembly as you can see.
I find it highly unlikely that you can mod a stock pickup and get it to fit past the Canton windage tray. It's a PIA to get the Canton pickup past the windage tray when installing the pan with the engine still in the car, much less the large factory pickup.
Cutting corners over an inexpensive part such as an oil pump pickup is asking for trouble. JMO.