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Warping or excessive runout shouldn't really happen unless the brakes were subjected to extreme heat (track use) and then cooled quickly like water being sprayed n them.
C4 rotors have cooling fins/slots so that makes them somewhat thicker and less prone to warping compared to rotors that are just a single solid disc. Depending on the source for replacement rotors, it's simply more economical to toss old rotors and install replacements.
The Service Manual for my 92 stated to not even bother with turning rotors as there really is not a lot of extra material on the new rotor to remove before you get to the minimum thickness value that's cast into the inside of the hat. If there is any appreciable runout, it's pretty hard to machine it out and stay under that value.
The scenario of pad material being deposited on the rotor makes complete sense to me, as my rotors started vibrating after coming down from the mountains on I-70 in stop & go traffic.
In most cases is one able to change rotors and pads and be done like most vehicles?
Yes, assuming that "most" does not include the purchase of bad replacement rotors. I had a bad experience when my new ones failed to solve the problem. A second set of new rotors eventually was the fix. I learned the hard way not to assume the new parts are OK when troubleshooting.