Differential Swap/U-joint Replacement Assistance
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 457
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From: He who laughs last didn't get it... Georgia
Differential Swap/U-joint Replacement Assistance
I'm getting ready for my differential swap and decided to replace the universal joints with Spicer's while I'm at it. I've read the FSM/CF threads but wanted to know from those who have already done this the easiest way. Would it be easier to drop the rear axle as a whole unit or perform on-vehicle service. 
Also add any additional "TIPS AND TRICKS" you might have besides these by C4boy and Scorp:
Also add any additional "TIPS AND TRICKS" you might have besides these by C4boy and Scorp:
Last edited by jsavoy; Sep 6, 2007 at 11:13 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: FL
John I would first remove the rear spring, disconnect the strut (camber) rod brackets from the diff and swing them down, unbolt drive shaft and axle u-joint straps at the pumpkin, bungee half shafts "up" then drop the batwing/pumpkin assembly.
Once it is out, removal of the driveshaft and axles is easy. The driveshaft slip yoke just slides out of the transmission tailshaft. With the batwing and pumpkin out, remove the outer u-joint straps attaching the half shafts to the wheel yokes, way easier than removing the complete rear suspension.
Once it is out, removal of the driveshaft and axles is easy. The driveshaft slip yoke just slides out of the transmission tailshaft. With the batwing and pumpkin out, remove the outer u-joint straps attaching the half shafts to the wheel yokes, way easier than removing the complete rear suspension.
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From: FL
Team Owner
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Yeah, I'd drop the diff down. Much easier that way if you're doing all 6.
BUT... I would try it without unbolting the Cbeam at all.
Just undo the rear spring bolts,
pull the entire exhaust in one piece,
undo the lower camber arms at the brackets (not at the cam bolt!)
put floor jack under the pumpkin,
remove both batwing bolts,
let the entire thing pivot down in one piece.
Now you can get the driveshaft out, and both halfshafts, and you don't have to touch the wheels or the C-beam.
BUT... I would try it without unbolting the Cbeam at all.
Just undo the rear spring bolts,
pull the entire exhaust in one piece,
undo the lower camber arms at the brackets (not at the cam bolt!)
put floor jack under the pumpkin,
remove both batwing bolts,
let the entire thing pivot down in one piece.
Now you can get the driveshaft out, and both halfshafts, and you don't have to touch the wheels or the C-beam.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
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From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Since he says he is doing a diff swap, the diff certainly has to come out if another one is going in, and whether or not the c-beam comes out, the transmission still needs to be supported, so for the simple sake of 2 bolts id take them out myself. I tried it once without unbolting the transmission end of the c-beam and not that i tried for long, but it takes around 45 seconds to undo the 2 bolts (assuming youre using power tools) and make the c-beam easy to move 
Thats just me though, Coaster do you do this up on a hoist or on jack stands??
Thats just me though, Coaster do you do this up on a hoist or on jack stands??
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
No need to remove the torque beam or distributor cap. In the gif I posted, I left it attached to the transmission, pivoted the engine/trans/beam assembly down slightly to pull the rear end off the end from it, and pulled the driveshaft out with it.
it's on page 1 here:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/405346
it's on page 1 here:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/405346
Last edited by CentralCoaster; Sep 6, 2007 at 05:57 PM.
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From: FL
Melting Slicks
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From: Lockport NY
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
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From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Which bit are ya missing?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
The engine has to drop wayyyy down before the L98 dist cap will come close.Even then, the wiring harness back there will hold it in place. I know this because I had a jack under the pan leak down, and it did no harm, the cap still had some clearance.
This of course is without all the extra weight of the trans hanging off of it.. that would probably do some damage if not supported.
