I am wondering what you highly modded guys have done for fuel systems?
I have a 90 L-98(or what was an L-98)
I am looking into a fuel system for the twin turbos I have to work on installing.

What do you guys have from the tank (internal/ external pumps/lines) to the the rails (aftermarket or modded stock rails)?

Are you guys running boost referenced regulators?
what size injectors are you running and what HP are you at or around?

Have any other fancy tricks?

 

This is what I did.

http://www.joby.se/corvette/mods/200...8_fuel_supply/

The stock L98 regulator IS boost referenced and works just fine.

 

I sumped my stock tank in two places, ran -10 s from each into a Y connector at the back of the car. One pump (both upgraded Aeromotive A1000s) runs all of the time through a Aeromomotive controller. One -10 runs to the front of the car where another y-block separates into two -8 which go to the -8 fuel rails. I have -6 lines going to my fuel regulator (an Aeromotive R2D2 unit), with a -10 going back to the tank. The secondary A1000 is activated by a microswitch and solenoid the instant the motor senses boost.... This set up is good for about 1700-1800 crank horsepower.

 

I'm running dual walbro in tank pumps. They go through two 6an lines up to the front and into a 'H' connector to help equalize the pressure and then into two seperate custom fuel rails. Then daul 6an lines into the Aeromotive FPR and a single 6an return line.

It seems to be doing just fine for me. It may be over kill for my hp level, but that's typically not a problem with our cars. I'm not sure of my hp level but I'm trapping 128mph in the quarter with a full weight daily driving car.

 

Internal sump on the factory tank. -12AN line from the sump through a 7" 20um Weldon filter direct connected to a Weldon pump. The Weldon pump necks to a -10AN with a check valve to the front of the car. It goes through a 12" Aeromotive 5um filter to a -10AN, that "Y"s to (2) -8AN feeds for the front of the fuel rails. 83 lb/hr injectors. The rear of the fuel rails feed to twin -6AN lines that connect to an Aeromotive boost referenced regulator that feeds a single -8AN line to the rear of the car over the top of the tank to return in the R front corner of the tank.

Totally seperate system for the N2O.

I hope this helps,
Aaron

 

Thanks for all the replys.

Would any of you done anything different now that you have a system running?

I was thinking about having a sump added on to a spare gas tank I have. this would force me to go external on the pumps.... is this just making more work for myself of would 2 intank pumps work out better?

After having this car modded for years, I am more concerned about reliability at this point. I am sick of throwing money at problems and would rather not deal with extra headaches.

 

External pumps here. Advice? Go bigger than you think you need, so you have head room to grow.
Aaron

 

Are you sure you want to replace your existing tank? Have you seen what it takes to even get to the tank? Not fun. I went external because they're simply easier tp get to, plus the pumps do not waste precious room within the tank. I need all of the fuel capacity I can get.

 

Bill did you ever decide on a system? I"m currently trying to figure out what I need to do to get enough flow for my hp level desired. I just bought some 60's but I may have to run them at a pretty good pressure level to get them to flow enough to feed the beast.

Also guys, do I need to do anything about the cross over tube on my car? I have the setup that has two crossover tubes toward the firewall and doesn't use the one near the throttle body in the front(I'm using a modified lt1 intake from what I understand).

 

qwikets,

for a non crossover car, you will want to "Y" the main feed line (-8an main, split to -6an to each rail is plenty sufficient for 1000+hp) right before the back of the rails and enter the backs of each fuel rail end where you'll put -6an male aluminum weld on bungs found from summit racing. then drill and weld on -6an male fittings on the fronts of the fuel rail, most do this on top due to space constraints between the end of rails and the back of the throttle body. I used 90* -6an fittings here to keep the lines close to the intake height as possible. then run them back to the firewal where you will mount an Aeromotive A1000 fuel injection bypass regulator. I run a single -6an return line to the stock feed barb on the sending unit tank top and find this is plenty for my single A1000 fuel pump, and pressure can be lowered without any problem at idle which is where the return line sizing is most critical (you use more fuel when making power so return line flow demand is lower).

for the back of the car, I drilled and put a bulkhead fitting -10an in the back lowest point of my fuel tank and sealed with "seal all" which is gasoline and oil resistant along with the nylon washers recommended by the fitting suppliers. from there a 100micron stainless steel element is used pre-pump. note, I connected the prefilter directly to the pump as well as the finer 10 micron post pump filter so they were one long unit to reduce the need for extra fittings and hoses and short runs which can be leak problematic.

then from there on the outlet side of the 10 micron filter runs your main -8an feed line to the front.

not sure if you're running aftermarket ECU but if you are go minimum 83lber's... I wish I had gone with 96ers myself.. peak and hold are more responsive then saturated injectors so trimming and tuning fuel at idle and part throttle iusn't quite as tricky as it is with larger slower high impedence injectors. for the minimum cost difference in the larger low Z units I say go big and buy them once rather then have to upgrade and deal with selling mid sized injectors a month or two down the road when you realize you want more power!

hope this helps!

Chris

 

Got 2 walbro's on a ZR-1 sender over here. Both runn fulltime.
Stock regulator w/accel adjustable upperhousing.
Moto-tron 65's. Stock lines,no issues so far- 710whp.

 

so you guys are running the pumps all the time with no problems? I've heard of a lot of guys using the hobbs switch to flip on the second pump under boost. This sounds pretty easy. I'll have to dig up the thread in the archives.