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Hi, can anyone please tell me (pics would be fantastic), where the pipework goes for the license plate air intakes I've seen.
I have the SLP claw on my '94 and wanted to increase the airflow to it, but I've taken the front number plate off and crawled around the engine bay, and can't for the life of me see how you would get the air ducting from the front plate to the claw???
Hi, can anyone please tell me (pics would be fantastic), where the pipework goes for the license plate air intakes I've seen.
I have the SLP claw on my '94 and wanted to increase the airflow to it, but I've taken the front number plate off and crawled around the engine bay, and can't for the life of me see how you would get the air ducting from the front plate to the claw???
Thanks
..if you do a SEARCH on the internet under such companies as mid america, ecklers, etc., i think that they would have associated picts for actual or similar products.....
I posted a thread about this and got alot of good ideas and feedback. what i did was take off the plate. and behind the plate ull find white s&it just cut that out. and then behind that ull find a black wall. just take a battery drill with a bit on it and go to town, cut a big whole in the middle. and ull see a direct path where the ar goes. BUT before u do that, id check into something i saw and liked AFTER i did all the work. its a box that u put over another type of air filter. and under the filter they cut a aquare whole UNDER the filter so the air comming under the car gets pullled up into the filter...i like that air track better. thats my next project
i didnt see any gains due to the slp claw already been installed before i did it. but i did notice 2-7 degrees cooler..and knowing clean air gets in there
I posted a thread about this and got alot of good ideas and feedback. what i did was take off the plate. and behind the plate ull find white s&it just cut that out. and then behind that ull find a black wall. just take a battery drill with a bit on it and go to town, cut a big whole in the middle. and ull see a direct path where the ar goes. BUT before u do that, id check into something i saw and liked AFTER i did all the work. its a box that u put over another type of air filter. and under the filter they cut a aquare whole UNDER the filter so the air comming under the car gets pullled up into the filter...i like that air track better. thats my next project
Several companies are producing something like that. TPIS has version of it. Mid-America was selling one under the name of Vortex I believe, a lot of Forum members think that the Vortex is a piece of junk so be careful and look before you leep.
I have pictures of my Ram Air install in this thread. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...&highlight=air I did have to cut a good bit more than what the first pic shows. I'm not sure how you would make it work with the tripple intake. I'll leave that part up to you to figure out.
someone did this mod not too long ago, saved the origional front plate and made a mold of it with wax paper and fiberglass, it was the most horrific looking thing i have ever seen! it was funny as s%$#! did it work? yep! just go the xtra mile and make it look decent...
I have pictures of my Ram Air install in this thread. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...&highlight=air I did have to cut a good bit more than what the first pic shows. I'm not sure how you would make it work with the tripple intake. I'll leave that part up to you to figure out.
Good Luck
What is the ID of the hsoe on this setup?
I just bought the Plate/Scoop but I dont have the hose and lid
yeah that was me who did that, it was funny huh...well i tired hard to do it, my fiberglass skills might not be as nice as urs but i did try it. my new plate is the original and i cut a NICE whole and it looks sharp..but thanks for not being a jerk about it...theres many thigns u can do to make a nice set-up. anything u try i bet is worth it more than paying 400-600 for one
yeah that was me who did that, it was funny huh...well i tired hard to do it, my fiberglass skills might not be as nice as urs but i did try it. my new plate is the original and i cut a NICE whole and it looks sharp..but thanks for not being a jerk about it...theres many thigns u can do to make a nice set-up. anything u try i bet is worth it more than paying 400-600 for one
NOOOOOOOOO! im not talking about yours...believe it or not, he is actually my friend, I'm not naming names though.......(mike)! not sure if i saw yours though...i am doing something like that with my hood/scoop, and i know my fiberglass skills stink, so i know there will be a TON of sanding....but it will be worth it, cold outside air is always better than hot inside air! and i can put that x-tra money to something else instead of handing it over to some custom guy. LOL
I think aardwolf has the whole system.Basically you have the inlet you plumb into the number plate and then having cut out a chunk of the wall behind there you have a pipe that couples up to a new base that fits on the air filter housing.Yes you have ambient air coming in but so does the stock system.All the stupid "claw" things are sucking hot air from the engine compartement apart from which you can put a hundred intakes on there and the air still has to pass through the two holes in the throttle body which are designed to pass the optimum amount.Also forget about the"ram" effect.An engine sucks in all the air it can use.As for the venturi effect any slight increase in pressure isn't going to up your HP much and if it does it will be at high speed when you don't need it rather than from a start when you do.My .02's worth.While I'm at it here's Lingenfelters answer to intakes.
I thought the whole system was to expensive and not really needed. I do have the scoop. I opened the area up behind the scoop then bent my cut lid down into a scoop for the incoming air. My thoughts in using this were for more cool intake air and air that would flow along the engine and intake, cooling it. If you wanted to it would be easy to make the rest of the system once you have a scoop. It's just a covered air filter housing with a tube going to the scoop. It could be fabbed up pretty easy.
I believe the diameter is approximately 5". I seem to remember that it required a 5.5" hole saw. I think I could not located one that size, for a reasonable price anyway. I ended up using an inexpensive 5" hole saw from Harbor freight and using the dremel to clear the rest out. I can verify the size this weekend if you like.
I believe the diameter is approximately 5". I seem to remember that it required a 5.5" hole saw. I think I could not located one that size, for a reasonable price anyway. I ended up using an inexpensive 5" hole saw from Harbor freight and using the dremel to clear the rest out. I can verify the size this weekend if you like.
Thanks, I am trying ot buy the flexible tubing and needed to knwo that diameter of the fitting at the back of the Scoop is.
I run the "Forced Air" brand system shown in the post by Ramrod92 above on my '95 Vette Coupe. I saw about 0.15 improvement at the track in the quarter using this system. For routing the tubing, you cut through the styrofoam cushion behind the license plate cover and then drill a hole through the crash bumper steel bar. I believe the drill hole size is 5 1/2". You must be very careful when drilling through the steel brace as you drill from the front of the car and go right through the brace and can hit the hood as the hole saw breaks through. Drilling from the engine compartment outward is really difficult but can be done.
An alternative would be to simply mark where you want the air to pass through the steel brace and drill smaller holes or cut a square opening for the air to pass through. The incoming cooler air blows right across the air filter since there is only a couple of inches between the back of the steel brace and the air filter housing. Not "forced induction" that way but it certainly gets much cooler air flowing to the air filter.
I run the "Forced Air" brand system shown in the post by Ramrod92 above on my '95 Vette Coupe. I saw about 0.15 improvement at the track in the quarter using this system. For routing the tubing, you cut through the styrofoam cushion behind the license plate cover and then drill a hole through the crash bumper steel bar. I believe the drill hole size is 5 1/2". You must be very careful when drilling through the steel brace as you drill from the front of the car and go right through the brace and can hit the hood as the hole saw breaks through. Drilling from the engine compartment outward is really difficult but can be done.
An alternative would be to simply mark where you want the air to pass through the steel brace and drill smaller holes or cut a square opening for the air to pass through. The incoming cooler air blows right across the air filter since there is only a couple of inches between the back of the steel brace and the air filter housing. Not "forced induction" that way but it certainly gets much cooler air flowing to the air filter.
Later ... Larry S.
I drilled through the brace. Make sure to do all this with the hood closed because it does stick down enough you may hit it. I didn't think the whole air box was worth it because for forced induction you need a super charger or turbo. I am not sure how much ram air effect there would be with the filter slowing the air down. I would guess the K&N type filter would be much better for this then a lower flowing paper filter.
Nice to see some data on an increase at the track!