Low Coolant?

Your fans should be coming on about 225 +/- a couple.
Check you may need to clean up in front of the radiator, fill and burp the system. Search function will get you the info. Also check C4 tips there a tech tip there on cleaning in front of the rad and burping the system.
Oh, now that's a different story. 250-260 is TOO HOT!!
You may be experiencing the same problem I had a couple of weeks ago. My thermostat stuck closed position causing over-heating.
So that's something to check too. Remove your stat and place it in a pot of boiling water and see if it opens. If it doesn't open buy the Fail-Safe type that, should it fail, will fail in the OPEN position.
Jake
with Vinnies 87.It sounds like the system has to be burped, which is fairly easy to do. Open the radiator cap, turn the heater to full hot and start the car. The coolant leve shoud be full. After several minutes, the thermostat should open, and you will see the coolant in the radiator move. Rev the engine to approx 1600-2000 rpm and the coolant level may drop. While the engine is at approx. 2000 rpm add coolant to full, put the radiator cap back on, then bring the engine back to idle. This should take care of burping the system, which basically removing the air.
This should take care of the temp and low coolant issues. Normal operating temps on these cars are higher than average. The fan goes on at 226-228, and the aux (if you have one) goes on at approx 235. Also make sure your air intake for the radiator is clean and not blocked wit leaves, dirt, coffee cups, plastic bags, etc. you would be suprised at what you would find up there.
Best to remove the cap before starting a cold engine. That way you won't get sprayed with hot coolant.
Jake
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
i guess next I'll have to check to see if there crap blocking the way.
Buy or scrounge a 3 ft. length of 3/4" PVC pipe and a 90 degree elbow to fit.

slip the elbow on, it will be snug no need to even glue it, then saw off one leg so the resulting combination is almost the same size as the pipe.

The resulting piece will look like this.

You now have a vacuum wand that will easily fit through the elongated opening on the right side of the shroud usually used to inspect for crap, it will reach almost the entire radiator core.

Take the backyard technicians best friend (duct tape) and tape it into the hose of a shop vac, the stronger the better.

Insert through the opening previously mentioned and go to town, a Maglight flashlight will be a big help.

You will be surprised how well it works!
Last edited by toptechx6; Nov 4, 2007 at 05:43 PM.
If so, have you checked the thermostat yet?
When you have the radiator cap removed, can you actually see the coolant flowing through the radiator tubes?
It's gotta flow through the radiator or your engine won't cool.
Jake
How do I check the thermostat?
And yes I can see the coolant going thru the radiator.
On the highway at about 50mph the oil temps didnt go over 240*(pretty much stayed about 238-240) and the cooland seemed to be cooling down more as it wasnt over 230. But riding around town the oil temps were around 240-260*. When I shut the car off am I supposed to let it idle for a few minutes to let it cool down or does it matter if I just turn the engine off right away?





Your water temp sounds ok. I don't know about L-98s, but on LT-1s there are air-bleeds on the upper water lines.
I would still put a new thermostat in if you have any doubts about it.
Have you checked the oil-cooler to see if a line is kinked or maybe something looks damaged?
Last edited by johnnymo63; Nov 6, 2007 at 05:18 PM.










