C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

OK, I'm starting the operation....

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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 08:44 PM
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Default OK, I'm starting the operation....

OK, since you guys have taken my $1000 easy job, and made it a $3000 hard job, I'll need more advice.

I am looking to get the radiator out tomorrow. Looks fairly straight forward.

However, I'm looking at the harmonic balancer. It has to come off to get the timing chain cover out to do the cam.

So tell me, does the puller fit in there or do I have to drop the steering to get in and get the balancer off.

Tell me I don't have to drop the steering, and mean it please.

Thanks.
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 09:13 PM
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Just pulled the one on my 89. I bought the harmonic balancer puller from advanced auto. I simply put the long stud of the puller through the loop of the steering tubing directly in front of the balancer. I was able to use a ratcheting box end to remove it. Some people simply loosen the line and move it out of the way. to remove it. Good luck Rich
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 09:14 PM
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So what is this? A cam change? What year? If it's an L98 it ought to be similar to mine. Save the damper to the last. You will have more room to maneuver the puller and your hands with all the accessories and water pump out of the way. The amount of interference with the steering rack is dependent on the puller you beg, borrow, or steal. On mine, I had to unhook one end of one of the steel lines to the rack. If the forcing screw of your puller is shorter than it is on mine you may not have to touch the rack.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jsup
Tell me I don't have to drop the steering, and mean it please. Thanks.
you don't have to drop the steering......if first tear down, you might want to get some zip locks and mark them for bolts removed to remember where they came from.
when you get those 6 stupid (7mm) screws out between the frame rail and the shroud, on re asssembly reverse the clip nuts to the oppositte side of the shroud so that on re-installl, those screws can be done from the under the front of the car.

Last edited by mseven; Sep 15, 2007 at 09:27 PM.
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
So what is this? A cam change? What year? If it's an L98 it ought to be similar to mine. Save the damper to the last. You will have more room to maneuver the puller and your hands with all the accessories and water pump out of the way. The amount of interference with the steering rack is dependent on the puller you beg, borrow, or steal. On mine, I had to unhook one end of one of the steel lines to the rack. If the forcing screw of your puller is shorter than it is on mine you may not have to touch the rack.

RACE ON!!!
It's a 1990 L98. Yes, this is a cam change.

I have a yoke style puller. Will that work, or do I need to get something else?

I am saving balancer until last.....I just started with the radiator. Then I'll do the AIR system, then the intake, then the H2O pump.

When it comes time to do the balancer my intent is to get it out, get the cam out, get the balancer put right back in. As fast as possible. Less parts laying around.

I'll even have the heads off before I do the cam...
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mseven
you don't have to drop the steering......if first tear down, you might want to get some zip locks and mark them for bolts removed to remember where they came from.
That's exactly how I'm doing it.

PLUS I'm putting the number of parts in the bag on there too. This way, if one gets lost I know. OR if I find a random part along the line, I look for the bag short a part.
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mseven
you don't have to drop the steering......if first tear down, you might want to get some zip locks and mark them for bolts removed to remember where they came from.

Take a lot of pics too.
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Spankyellow
Take a lot of pics too.
My dam digital camera broke. I'll go pick up a new one tomorrow as mine is out for repair.
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jsup
It's a 1990 L98. Yes, this is a cam change.

I have a yoke style puller. Will that work, or do I need to get something else?
Yoke puller??? Is that one that has two or three fingers or jaws that hook over the edge of the OD of the damper? If so...STOP! You risk pulling the outer damping ring off of the OD of the damper assembly. Use a puller that uses three bolts that screw into the three threaded pulley bolt holes. You can "rent" a puller at Auto Zone, Checker, and other shady parts stores all over for free. It only runs about $15.00 to have your own, forever.



Originally Posted by jsup
I'll even have the heads off before I do the cam...
You are pulling the heads to change a cam???

RACE ON!!!
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Old Sep 15, 2007 | 10:02 PM
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[QUOTE]
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Yoke puller??? Is that one that has two or three fingers or jaws that hook over the edge of the OD of the damper? If so...STOP! You risk pulling the outer damping ring off of the OD of the damper assembly. Use a puller that uses three bolts that screw into the three threaded pulley bolt holes. You can "rent" a puller at Auto Zone, Checker, and other shady parts stores all over for free. It only runs about $15.00 to have your own, forever.
Here's the puller I got, it was about $40.



You are pulling the heads to change a cam???
No, I'm pulling the heads because I'm nuts. I'm replacing them to match the cam, intake (super ram), and headers...

I'm looking at Trick Flow and Patriot heads.... what do you think?
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 12:27 AM
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[QUOTE=jsup;1561930451]

Here's the puller I got, it was about $40.





No, I'm pulling the heads because I'm nuts. I'm replacing them to match the cam, intake (super ram), and headers...

I'm looking at Trick Flow and Patriot heads.... what do you think?
I think there's alot of nuts here, and my wife thinks I'm one, just bought my 94 less than a year ago and as soon as the weather gets to the point of snow, salt, I'm ripping mine apart, no plan just want to see where it goes, I'm just not into the stock motor thing, headers, cam, heads, mybe a blower oh ya! also get a balancer puller it'll make life alot easier.
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 02:56 AM
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While we're on the subject of heads/cam swap, what is a good cam to run with the new AFR 195's, mini-ram, EM headers, true duals (if I can find a 2&1/2" setup for my 89 ragtop?) Am dumping the air pump, and maybe the AC. Haven't decided which mufflers yet, but I need to know where to get true duals from the EM header extension pipes back to the mufflers. I would like to put an x-pipe in there somewhere, but can't seem to find one, and don't know if I should run bullet cats or not either. Any help and pics of some setups appreciated.

Rich K
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jsup
Here's the puller I got, it was about $40.

You got raped on the price, but that is the type you need. Your's is probably a better quality than mine. Mine gets "once in a blue moon" usage and it seems to be holding up OK. That pic shows the bolts that thread into the tapped damper holes, like I described. You scared me when you said, "yoke style puller".



Originally Posted by jsup
No, I'm pulling the heads because I'm nuts. I'm replacing them to match the cam, intake (super ram), and headers...

I'm looking at Trick Flow and Patriot heads.... what do you think?
It seems you left quite a bit out of your opening post.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Sep 16, 2007 | 09:10 PM
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
You got raped on the price, but that is the type you need. Your's is probably a better quality than mine. Mine gets "once in a blue moon" usage and it seems to be holding up OK. That pic shows the bolts that thread into the tapped damper holes, like I described. You scared me when you said, "yoke style puller".
I paid $20. I screwed up on the price. I needed it to pull a flywheel on a boat motor.

It seems you left quite a bit out of your opening post.
Sorry!
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