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Hello I am new to this forum and I have a few questions. I imagine that these have been asked before so sorry to rehash old issues.
First off I have read about many who have installed 1.6:1 roller rockers with a new cam but what about the rockers alone with the stock cam? Will it do me much good? or am I waisting my money ( I already have the rockers hanging around the shop). What problems will I run into? Will the stock heads accomodate that much lift?
Also I am looking for some long tube headers and dont know which ones would be the best for the money or just the best for that matter. Also where is the best place to purchase them?
I have a all stock 1995 c4 LT1 and plan for many modifications. It has low miles on it so I dont want to realy break into the block but would like to do some things to it, Im not interested in changing out the cam at this time ,dave
The stock valve springs are very close to coil bind using 1.6 ratio rockers, an inexpensive solution is to use LT4 springs, no other changes should be necessary except for removing the drip tabs from the valve covers. Changing valve seals is a good idea while you are in there. Can't advise you on the headers, but I'm sure someone else will be able to.
Hi I have proform alum 1:6 roller rockers left over from anther project. will they fit under the plastic valve covers of a 93 vette? I know on the other car they rubbed and you had to bend or grind on valve cover to keep from hitting. Thanks
The stock valve springs are very close to coil bind using 1.6 ratio rockers, an inexpensive solution is to use LT4 springs, no other changes should be necessary except for removing the drip tabs from the valve covers. Changing valve seals is a good idea while you are in there. Can't advise you on the headers, but I'm sure someone else will be able to.
Agree w/toptechx6 above. Use the LT-4 springs (about $40 SDPC). Pushrod length (7.200 inch) remains the same. You will (again as noted by top tech) have to remove the drip tabs from the underside of the valve covers - they WILL hit.
I am really happy with my Exotic Muscle ceramic coated long tube headers. They go on sale about every 6 months with a group purchase. Some other options that I am aware of are Melrose, Stainless Works, and TPiS headers.
So is that all there is to the Roller rocker thing? doesnt sound too difficult to me. How about the headers? are the long tube that much better than the shorty headers? do the shorties do any thing at all compared to the stock manifolds?
So is that all there is to the Roller rocker thing? doesnt sound too difficult to me.
Make sure that the rockers you have laying around are self-aligning. If not, you'll need guideplates and hardened pushrods to run them.
Rockers (and headers) produce more noise, which the LT1's computer has a tendency to interpret as knock, and pull timing. The LT4 has better knock-detection logic, so you'll want to consider an LT4 knock module...runs about $30-35.
Last edited by 95PoloVert; Sep 22, 2007 at 11:47 PM.
How about the headers? are the long tube that much better than the shorty headers? do the shorties do any thing at all compared to the stock manifolds?
On the LT1, most report ~15hp gain on the LTs vs. 3-5 for the shorties.
Also, I wanted to add Hooker 2151's to the list of LTs available for the LT1.
Last edited by 95PoloVert; Sep 22, 2007 at 11:50 PM.
Ok speaking of the knock sensor and the computor. At what point or stage of modifications would one want to reprogram the computor to make all this work. I dont plan on doing any major modifications beyond exhaust and intake mods
Ok speaking of the knock sensor and the computor. At what point or stage of modifications would one want to reprogram the computor to make all this work. I dont plan on doing any major modifications beyond exhaust and intake mods
I had PCMFORLESS re-program the PCM on my 96 LT1 when the engine was bone stock. Made a very noticable difference. $$ well spent.
I also installed the LT4 knock "module", not the knock sensors.
Make sure that the rockers you have laying around are self-aligning. If not, you'll need guideplates and hardened pushrods to run them.
Rockers (and headers) produce more noise, which the LT1's computer has a tendency to interpret as knock, and pull timing. The LT4 has better knock-detection logic, so you'll want to consider an LT4 knock module...runs about $30-35.
You are correct that guideplates and pushrods are necessary if the rockers are not self-aligning, but I thought the LT4 knock module would only work on 96 cars?
The LT4 knock module did nothing for my '95. Actually made it count false knocks like crazy. I went back to the LT1 module to solve the problem. Some others have experienced the same thing. If you search my posts you should find lots of discussion.
You are correct that guideplates and pushrods are necessary if the rockers are not self-aligning, but I thought the LT4 knock module would only work on 96 cars?
'96 was the only year that the LT4 was available in a C4, but the LT4 KM will definitely work in a '95.
2151's are LTs. They're listed as L98 headers, but fit both.
oh, I was going by this site here on the numbers. http://speeddemonmotorsports.com/catalog/exhaustC4.html I didn't notice that they were not the long tubes. Are there any modifications needed to get the 2151's to work on a later C4? All the websites only list them up to 91. Thanks for the correction. Good to know.
I have a the LT4 knock module in my 1995 also. The knock count seems to be ok with my headers and open exhaust but I don't have RR's or a cam installed yet.
[QUOTE=rickreeves1;1562037623]oh, I was going by this site here on the numbers. http://speeddemonmotorsports.com/catalog/exhaustC4.html I didn't notice that they were not the long tubes. Are there any modifications needed to get the 2151's to work on a later C4? All the websites only list them up to 91. Thanks for the correction. Good to know.
[/quotes]
Well, the 2151's don't have any provisions for emissions, and you have to have a $7 O2 bung welded in. (The 2149's do...but I don't recall whether they will work with the LT1's emissions systems or not.)
The only other issue I recall are that the motor mount bolts needed to be reversed for clearance (5 mins each).