I'm looking at Felpro 1144s. Any reasons I shouldn't use those?

 

Go with Felpro 1010 head gasket.

 

Don't you need all the compression you can get? Use a thinner head gasket. Here is the 1094:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku

 

You should use the same gaskets you have now to prevent bore distortion. If you are honing the block for a rebuild you can use anything you want but use torque plates with the same gaskets you will build the engine with so stress loads reproduce straight round bores with the heads and gaskets clamped down afterwards.

 

A thinner head gasket, in theory, would be more likely to "blow" or "distort" on an aluminum headed iron block because of the tendency for the aluminum head to expand at a much quicker rate than iron. The thinner head gasket would also encourage galvanic corrosion because the two disimilar metals are at a much closer distance than what a thicker head gasket would put them. The higher static compression and dynamic compression ratio, especially when unnecessary would also become more susceptible to pinging and possibly detonation.

 

Quick! Tell us everthing you know about quench. More hooblyboobly.

RACE ON!!!

 

awwww CFI shhhhhhh he was just getting to the good part

 

Quench? Oh I know all about that. So I'm out in the hot humid Florida summer doing some yard work suddenly I get unbearably thirsty. I'm rapidly becoming dehydrated. I quench my thirst with Gatorade! Or I obey it when I down a Sprite or two. Like the commercial ad on TV says, OBEY YOUR THIRST!

But the "quench" you are looking for is defined here:

Quench, or squish area is typically the flat area on the top of the piston that's almost level with the top of the block deck. It must have a corresponding flat area on the deck surface of the head to qualify as quench. If you look at a combustion chamber, you will usually see these flat areas, and they will have the volume of the actual combustion chamber between them. When the piston is compressing the mixture, as the piston nears the head, the flat areas on the head and piston come together and force the mixture from those areas to "squish" into the chamber, where the spark plug and burning mixture reside, so you achieve a more complete burn. The quench area also runs cooler than the rest of the chamber / piston. These lower temperatures are where the "quench" comes from.
When properly designed, the quench areas can have a tremendous effect on the quality of combustion, and allow higher compression ratios, and due to this they are considered "artificial octane" by scientific types. Bottom line is "properly designed, quench is good".

Yes, I plagiarized from online somewhere without the proper citation (s), Mr. CFI-EFI aka Professor of gasoline engine science. I think I deserve an F-

 

You cannot successfully switch headgasket design on a smallblock that has been run in with something else or you run the risk of pulling the tops of the bores out of round by .0015 which will disturb the top ring seal. The only way this can be done is to rehone the block with torque plates using gaskets that will be used for final assembly. Buy four head gaskets and use two for honing.

 

While your plagiarism has many correct points, it is flawed. Regardless, tell us how that definition relates to the hooblyboobly in your last post. Why do you insist on spouting that GARBAGE, that demonstrates how little you know, where some of the lesser informed, who read these threads to learn, can be misinformed and misled.

RACE ON!!!

 

So are we still talking about head gaskets or about quench? I'm sorry, but you were the one who got this thread off the original topic when you were telling me to explain what quench meant. So what I say is garbage, eh? No comment on that one.

Its just common sense that a thinner head gasket would be more suspect to becoming distorted by a sudden rise in engine temps and cylinder pressures, hence the name "blown head gasket." Because aluminum is also a dissimilar metal with a different expansion rate, along with more electrical negativity than iron, that can also exacerbate the problem due to corrosion. So essentially, a thin head gasket does 2 bad things for an aluminum headed iron block engine.

 

I cannot believe what Im reading, someone here is on crack

 

never heard of these problems using a thinner gasket...hhmmm

 

Ok, so what Felpro head gasket for an 89?

 

I went with Felpro 1010 on my '89 a few years back and I've never had an issue.

 

Umm.... I thought the 1010 was the one so notorious for failing prematurely? And the one's that come tn the PT-9 Head set were the ones to run.

 

Well, I've been running these for several years now and I haven't had an issue. And I use the car almost daily during summer months too.

If the head gaskets that come with the PT-9 set are the 7733, then I'd steer clear of 'em.

 

 

I'd like to come to more of a consensus as to what Felpro head gaskets most are going with for the 89 year engine.

Thanks.

 

I'm going to be a little rusty on FelPro now as it's been many years since I have used their products but as I recall some of the popular versions included a wire combustion seal. Some gaskets featured a round stainless steel wire, some a copper wire and others a "pre-flattened" stainless steel wire and some were composition gaskets with stainless steel armor and no wire. Other choices would include the thin stamped stainless steel shim type gasket and the now popular multi-layer steel gasket. All of these gasket designs will pull the tops of the bores of a smallblock a little differently. Smallblocks are sensitive to this due to having 5 bolts per cylinder in the decks very close to the cylinder walls. Better job will simulate these stress loads during the honing operation.