C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Removing rubberized coating on plastic

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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 03:48 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by pr0zac
what if you clear coated a brand new one with the rubber still on it??? how do you think that would work.. mine is 2 years old and looks worse now then the one i replaced. i drive my car almost everyday.. so having that part out for a few days would drive me nuts..
I'm not sure how the rubber coating would react to it. Probably not well. Maybe someone who hasn't stripped theirs yet could try. I have driven without the console for a while. It looks but it's still functional. Something else I haven't heard anyone mention but I was tempted to try was light media blasting to remove the rubber. There are many types of media for removing different substances. I guess there is the possibility of it heating up too much or warping the plastic. I am media blasting my other car right now and may decide to experiment with it.


Last edited by rickneworleansla; Nov 5, 2007 at 03:50 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 04:48 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by pr0zac
what if you clear coated a brand new one with the rubber still on it??? how do you think that would work.. mine is 2 years old and looks worse now then the one i replaced. i drive my car almost everyday.. so having that part out for a few days would drive me nuts..
No, no, no. The whole point is that the rubber gets nicked up irreparably as the car gets used; clearcoat will not protect the rubber from getting chipped off, and will most likely not adhere to rubber at all. At best it would make a once stock-looking brand new part unnaturally shiny. You would already have the pieces off to treat them, why not just do it the right way? Chemically stripping your old pieces and doing the procedure as above takes about an hour if you have the paint, clearcoat, gasket remover, garden hose, and sandpaper ready and on hand. There would be no reason for that part to be off of your car for a few days as you feared, provided that you know how to remove and re-install the parts and don't waste a ton of time figuring that step out.

Last edited by LouisvilleLT4; Nov 5, 2007 at 04:53 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 05:17 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Red Dwarf
This is from Tech Tips. https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=114&TopicID=2

In the future you may save some time & money by searching thru the Tips section.
You think so, huh???

That shoppin' list at the beginning looks like $75 - $90. My soapy water is about $1.15.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 09:03 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by schrade
You think so, huh???

That shoppin' list at the beginning looks like $75 - $90. My soapy water is about $1.15.
Yeah the tech tips section in general sucks pretty bad, and I hate it when people like this guy pompously assume that what's in tech tips is better than what you wrote. I highly doubt he even read it before he linked to it.

edit: sorry, I was pissed off at something else when I typed this.

Last edited by LouisvilleLT4; Nov 6, 2007 at 02:35 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 11:01 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by LouisvilleLT4
Yeah the tech tips section in general sucks pretty bad, and I hate it when people like this guy pompously assume that what's in tech tips is better than what you wrote. I highly doubt he even read it before he linked to it.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 12:25 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by LouisvilleLT4
Yeah the tech tips section in general sucks pretty bad, and I hate it when people like this guy pompously assume that what's in tech tips is better than what you wrote. I highly doubt he even read it before he linked to it.
He meant well, just didn't do a very good job.

I washed most of it off with soap and water, then put a lint roller to the rest. Clogged up the lint roller with each pass.

Still got one spot (left, below radio) playin' hard to get. It don't look good, but it's clean, and I'll get over it.

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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 02:17 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by black_771
I tried other stuff like acetone and mineral spirits but it really softened the plastic too much. If you scrape on it you ended up gouging it badly.

A small wirewheel on my dremel didn't do much either.

Sanding didn't work for me at all. The rubber ended up gunking up the paper and never took the rubber all the way off anyway.

Soapy water takes forever, but it worked the best and left everything nice and smooth for painting.
When I repainted my console bezel, I was able to peel the rubber coating by rubbing the part with a rag soaked in Acetone. I then peeled it off using my fingers and dry rags.I did sand it also to remove some of the surface defects from the molding process.
It is still a lot of work.
93cruiser
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 05:00 PM
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I did my interior...here are a couple of pics...sorry I though I had some better ones, I'll take a few when I'm home in a couple of weeks.

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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 05:16 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by fc_soldier
Im def. going to do this cause I ended up somehow getting a nick in the coating. I might send mine to a paint shop to get a professional to paint it and clear coat it a couple of layers. We'll see if the price is right.
If you paint it with flat paint, it's almost impossible to mess up unless you get a run. Flat paint goes on nice and even.
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 05:38 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JA94vette
I did my interior...here are a couple of pics...sorry I though I had some better ones, I'll take a few when I'm home in a couple of weeks.
Looks awesome
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 07:10 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by black_771
If you paint it with flat paint, it's almost impossible to mess up unless you get a run. Flat paint goes on nice and even.


So ja40, did they spray the trim when you got the car sprayed? How did they hold the parts there?
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