I checked out the archieve and it looks like a lot of people have had this problem. I get a 32 after about 20 minutes of driving around 70-80mph. I replaced the sensor switch going into the pipe already and that didn't help. The car runs fine otherwize except after a full cool down in the morning during startup it idles very low and stalls, then restart normal no problems. The only time the code comes on is after sustained above 2000 rpm driving. Even then it doesn't run bad. To get the light to go off I have to shut off the motor and restart. The code stays in the computer. I've reset it several times and it keeps coming back. Could this be the EGR valve diaphram bleeding off at cruising rpm. I checked the lines going to around the plenum and they all seem ok. I've only had the car a few months and it was doing this when I bought it. If I have to replace the EGR, how hard is it to get the plenum off and do I need any special tools for the valve? The car is a late 86 with Al heads.
Thanks

 

I cannot answer specifically for an 86, but will try to give you a couple of points. Double check all the hoses, as they will split and seperate with age. If you need to replace the EGR, I do not believe you need any special tools other than a good set of Torx sockets.

It can be a PITA to remove the plenum. Make sure you have a new set of gaskets for the plenum to the runners available. After you remove the linkage, TB, runner torx bolts, misc vacuum lines, power brake feed, etc. the plenum may be stuck on. I found that I did have to loosen the lower runner bolts and gently pursuad the plenum with a rubber mallet to wiggle it off. Take your time, it will come. When you put the plenum back, make sure that every thing lines up perfectly or you can strip the upper bolts, have vacuum leaks, etc.

One other thing I should mention. Are you sure that the previous owner did not gut the cats? Gutted cats are a frequent cause of the dreaded code 32.

 

mine did it until i tightened the gas cap a few clicks. In the exact same situation you have.

 

I called a dealer today about it and he quoted $450 including EGR. Guess I'm diggin in. Anyone suggest only AC/Delco parts. Seems like everyone cares the EGR but my dealer. They have to order almost everything.

 

Curtis I don't have my trouble shooting books with me at work, but low idle and stalling is indicating that the sylinoid (front of intake) is allowing EGR gas to flow when it shouldn't or could be stuck EGR. There should be no EGR gas at idle or WOT (check vacuum gauge).

 

Curtis,

I replaced my EGR when I replaced my injectors. Pulling the plenum is not that bad at all. Everything is on top of the engine so you don't have to jack it up or crawl under. It just requires that you take your time and be careful. As already suggested, have a new set of gaskets and a rubber hammer ready before starting. On your 86 be sure that you check for any connections at the rear of the plenum on both the driver and passenger side. DON'T over torque the steel bolts putting them back in the aluminum plenum. The GM Manual says 25ftlb in some places and 19ftlb in others. Use 19ftlb or you will strip the aluminum threads.

Generally I am not overly biased in favor of factory parts, but after doing this to my car and helping with some others, I would suggest that you use ONLY an AC/Delco EGR for the replacement. Every aftermarket EGR I have looked at (from 6 different auto parts places) was slightly different than the AC/Delco. All would have worked, but.. Most require a slight modification of the small vacuum hose to the EGR itself. Some don't mount exactly the same. You are saving a couple of hundred $ by doing it yourself, save some grief and effort by getting the factory part for this operation. The GM part # for an 86 EGR is 17111665. This is the same number for 1986 - 89 vettes. Order it from a Forum supporting GM Dealer or from Jeff (18carfan). Jeff is great to do business with. Figure about 2~3 hours depending on how much you clean while in there.

 

LOL! :lol: Heavy on the cleaning part. ;) I took mine apart last weekend and have yet to get it back together. It was suggested to me that I get an "S" wrench to get at the aft EGR valve bolt. BTW, you can bench test the valve. If you put a vacuum pump to it, it should hold a vacuum. The new GM one did, but the old one when you pump the vac, the diaphragm didn't go down and stay there till vacuum was released. Make sure you get a gasket for under the EGR valve. The GM one I purchased came with the gasket in the box. Also you'll need to take th TB off to get the plenum off. There's a gasket between the TB and plenum. I'm going to replace that one, though if you're careful you might not have to replace it. There are also 2 gaskets between the runners and plenum. While I had the TB off I decided to clean (diasassemble that). There's a "kit" with the 3 gaskets inside the TB, and between the TB & TPS. Also be careful getting the vac lines off the rear pass side of the plenum. Mine were bubba'd in place and I broke one. I never did find that in the GM parts catalog, but Tonys' Corvette was able to put one together for me (hopefully I'll get it tomorrow) from some other part. I'm being **** purist about mine and want it exactly like the factory setup - but a standard 8" hose from Pep Boys would have worked too. :bb Be sure to stuff rags in the runners & EGR opening when you're working / cleaning in the area. Wouldn't want to accidentally drop anything in the engine. :jester

 

{qoute} Generally I am not overly biased in favor of factory parts, but after doing this to my car and helping with some others, I would suggest that you use ONLY an AC/Delco EGR for the replacement. Every aftermarket EGR I have looked at (from 6 different auto parts places) was slightly different than the AC/Delco. [qoute]

YES!!!! I purchased one from Autozone and w/ no other changes made, it overheated my engine to 264* :eek: No damage.....caught it in time and saved it. Get the GM one. Mine was very easy. I don't know why others are so difficult. 3/8 " nuts. Good luck.