ruizsand1

I need opinions on the performance gained when installing the "Claw" (three tubes with one filter each) on a 1992 Corvete (LT1)
Really found improvement? Any drawbacks?
I would really apreciate if any of you reading this has it installed and can send me feedback

Thanks in advance

ruizsand1

ruizsand1@hotmail.com

LT4BUD

Nice quality...looks nice..

Zip on any performance gain.....in fact my experience has been it sucks hot air out of the engine compartment...IAT about 20 degrees above ambient...hot air doesn't equal performance

total filter surface area of 3 cones is identical to OEM panel filter..

Cross section of tubes is essentially equal to that of the OEM housing

Real answer is ask SLP for dyno test result.....hint: you won't get any

Buy for looks!!!

Aardwolf

Nicely done! The stock system is pretty good. A ram air system may show some gains but could take away aero.

aminnich

The claw is for looks, and you do hear it sucking the air in at WOT, but no discernible hp variance either way. I just like the looks myself.

biggrizzly

I have one too, and I have never really noticed any difference, but I think the surface area is actually a little larger than the OEM filter. Whatever, it's a close ball game, and it is primarily for looks. It would be interesting if someone could dyno it with and without, but I don't think there would be any real gains until you had heads, cam and exhaust to actually benefit from the increased air flow.
My 2 cents

Road Agent

Stock is fine.

RainJ

Ive got that intake sitting in my garage - haven't even unpacked it and installed it.. (Susan started talking about selling the 96 right after I got it.. )

LT4BUD

Then again you can do what I have done....

Cut out under the snorkle to provide nice cold air......build an air box to block out hot engine air..

http://images.kodakgallery.com/servl...5_0_BG.jpg?a=0

RandyJ75

Link no work

Basstages

biggrizzly

Here, I fixed it I think

biggrizzly

Did you notice any increase in engine temps? Any feeling of level of improvement?
I had thought about doing this as well last year but never got off my butt to do it.

runner140*

Totally...I have one.

RAGOVET

I got it mainly for looks..... but with my other mods, it works nicely....

94 whezzer

Just put one on mine for one reason only, I think it seals better than oem, oem filter housing warps letting in all sorts of dirt , noticed bits of junk stuck to screen on mas air sensor, just my 2 cents! It also looks great.

rickneworleansla

Last Paragraph.

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_06...engine_buildup

Aurora40

I have one. It looks nice, so I'm happy. It does block the opening from the radiator area less than the air box, but who knows if that really matters.

I did do some tests measuring the MAP pressure at WOT at low rpm vs peak rpm with the stock box, paper filter, and cut lid vs the claw. I don't remember anymore the exact number but it was right around 2kPa less pressure drop for the claw. That may be good for a couple of horsepower, who knows.

Aurora40

Man, mine had a huge gnarly weld along the bottom where the duct sits over it. The accordion duct wouldn't seal to it well at all, I had to dremel the weld down for a good seal.

LT4BUD

1.) Look at IAT to compare temperatures of OEM vs claw......I only measured with the claw and IAT was 15-20 degrees above ambient once the engine was warm..

2.) Would sure like to know more about your MAP logging......any drop in MAP indicates a restriction and the possibility of improvement. MAP in my opinion is the best way to evaluate things like filters, intake systems, the old throttle body size debates...etc.

A small drop in MAP is very significant!!!!

NEVRL8T

Not working still.

Aurora40

Certainly IAT could be useful. But I find in my car it gets heatsoaked too easily and is too slow to recover for any sort of clear picture to emerge.

For the MAP logging, what I did was several 3rd gear pulls from low rpm (1000-1500) up to redline (7,100). I then look at the MAP readings on the low end, once they have sort of stabilized from the initial opening of the throttle. I view the low rpm fully open throttle as the ambient baseline. Just about any filter should flow enough at 1,000 rpm. It would be more accurate to get an ambient reading instead, but I had to work with what I have.

I took the first 5 readings once they were fairly stable. Then I took the last 5 stable readings at ~7,000 rpm before I let off. I did this for about 3-4 runs with each air filter setup. Then I averaged the low end and high end for each run, and took the difference.

That gave me 3-4 data points on pressure drop for the stock cutlid setup and for the SLP claw setup. On average, the SLP one had less pressure drop by something close to 2kPa. Neither one had a huge pressure drop, I think the Claw still dropped 2-3kPa and the stock box was like 4-5 or thereabouts. I imagine even with no filter there will always be some pressure drop.

Edit: FWIW, my car has a ported intake, and dual 63mm throttle bodies.