One of my spindle nuts was removed by hand the other need very little to remove. You will need new flat washers between the hub and spindle.
'86 rear hub play?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 139
From: Vail AZ
'86 rear hub play?
I'm assuming I'm not supposed to have ANY play in my rear wheels, right? I just noticed an intermittent noise this evening coming from the right rear of my car. I jacked it up and was able to wiggle the R-R wheel a little bit. I checked the L-R and it had movement, but not as much as the R-R. So I'm assuming I need new hubs. (?) I've found prices from $80.00 to $160.00 and all are advertised as new U.S. made.
So #1. Do I need new hubs, as I suspect?
#2. Any reason not to buy the cheapest U.S. made hubs and save some $$$? If not, any brand I want to avoid?
Thanks,
Tom
So #1. Do I need new hubs, as I suspect?
#2. Any reason not to buy the cheapest U.S. made hubs and save some $$$? If not, any brand I want to avoid?
Thanks,
Tom
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 139
From: Vail AZ
I'm an impatient one. I had read everything I could find using the search function and had already figured the worst. After reading 50 pages of postings I ordered the "HP" hubs from a non-supporting vendor that supposedly have the tapered bearings. We'll see if the $296.87/Pr. delivered price is worth it soon enough. Luckily my tool collection already has the T-55 and 36mm sockets so I'm good there. Has anyone had any luck removing the center nut with an impact wrench, or am I destined to use the breaker-bar method?
One more question: I saw references in the threads I searched to a shim, but not much detail on it. Is that something I will encounter between the hub and the splined shaft?
One more question: I saw references in the threads I searched to a shim, but not much detail on it. Is that something I will encounter between the hub and the splined shaft?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,625
Likes: 4
From: Director of Bands
St. Jude Donor '08
I'm an impatient one. I had read everything I could find using the search function and had already figured the worst. After reading 50 pages of postings I ordered the "HP" hubs from a non-supporting vendor that supposedly have the tapered bearings. We'll see if the $296.87/Pr. delivered price is worth it soon enough. Luckily my tool collection already has the T-55 and 36mm sockets so I'm good there. Has anyone had any luck removing the center nut with an impact wrench, or am I destined to use the breaker-bar method?
One more question: I saw references in the threads I searched to a shim, but not much detail on it. Is that something I will encounter between the hub and the splined shaft?
One more question: I saw references in the threads I searched to a shim, but not much detail on it. Is that something I will encounter between the hub and the splined shaft?
Okay... here's another dose of reality: I had a little play in my rear wheel hubs, so I replaced them with USA made units. Even the new ones had a tiny bit of play in them. I'll worry about it if one of the wheels falls off.....
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 139
From: Vail AZ
Yeah. Definitely play in the hubs themselves. I figure that once I get the hubs out I'll check out the U-joints and replace them too if they show any play. The car has 101k miles on it. I drive it pretty gently, but the more I read, the more I see these rear hubs aren't built to last that long.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 506
Likes: 12
From: Savannah GA
Just a word of caution. The shake test takes up play in the suspension. The shop manual wants the wheel off and a dial indicator to check end play in the bearing.
If I remember it should be less than .006 in Mine were almost .02 inch out back and I couldn't figure out why the car was all over the road on ruttted up pavement.
I got bearings from Pep Boys years ago and they have held up under street driving. From what I read only a few companies make the bearings and everyone else just reboxes them including GM.
If you are going to the trouble to change the wheel bearings take the cap off a u-joint and take a look. For the time and effort I would change the j-joints while I had it apart; especially if I didn't know the history of the u-joints.
JS
If I remember it should be less than .006 in Mine were almost .02 inch out back and I couldn't figure out why the car was all over the road on ruttted up pavement.
I got bearings from Pep Boys years ago and they have held up under street driving. From what I read only a few companies make the bearings and everyone else just reboxes them including GM.
If you are going to the trouble to change the wheel bearings take the cap off a u-joint and take a look. For the time and effort I would change the j-joints while I had it apart; especially if I didn't know the history of the u-joints.
JS
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,963
Likes: 709
From: WI
I recently put the $80 WBI bearing on mine and it is working well so far. No play! I broke the spindle nut loose before jacking up the car. No trouble with a breaker bar, this is a simple job but it can take awhile without a lift. Kind of hard to see the torx bolts.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 139
From: Vail AZ
Hoooo Leeeee CRAAAAAAPPPP! So when I first posted this I had parked the car after hearing a slight clicking for the first time EVER. I bought new hubs, but have been waiting for the new Teflon coated washers from my local Chev. dealer and haven't driven the car since. So this evening I decide to take it out and am only on a leisurely cruise. About a mile from the house the R-R starts making a GRINDING noise every time power is applied at any level other than traffic-impeding rates. Not only could I HEAR it, but I could FEEL it! Boy was THAT quick; Drove fine... Made slight noise on one drive... Grinding parts on the next! I'm parked now 'til the washers come in.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 139
From: Vail AZ
Well I was right. And I was wrong. I finally hit the garage yesterday to R&R the hubs. I figured that with 100k miles on it, I'd be well served to go ahead and replace the 4 U-joints as long as I was taking things apart.
Good thing. Of the four U-joints, one was in a condition that I'd describe as "okay." Two had at least one bearing that was gritty. And the R-outer had one bearing that was completely destroyed. That was my grinding noise.
Once I got everything apart the hubs really didn't feel bad at all. They both turned smoothly and the resistance felt right, but I noticed that they both had their inner seals going. Once I got the new hubs on and all reassembled I did the wiggle test again. There is now NO play in the hubs. So even though the old ones had noticeable play and were obviously in need of replacement, there was no bearing grinding or danger in them.
So there's my short story. From now on as long as I own a C4 and I drive as easy as I do, I will still consider all 6 U-joints as a 50-k mile service item and the rear hubs as probably a 100k service item.
Good thing. Of the four U-joints, one was in a condition that I'd describe as "okay." Two had at least one bearing that was gritty. And the R-outer had one bearing that was completely destroyed. That was my grinding noise.
Once I got everything apart the hubs really didn't feel bad at all. They both turned smoothly and the resistance felt right, but I noticed that they both had their inner seals going. Once I got the new hubs on and all reassembled I did the wiggle test again. There is now NO play in the hubs. So even though the old ones had noticeable play and were obviously in need of replacement, there was no bearing grinding or danger in them.
So there's my short story. From now on as long as I own a C4 and I drive as easy as I do, I will still consider all 6 U-joints as a 50-k mile service item and the rear hubs as probably a 100k service item.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
Sorry to be a day late.....
See this thread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1846086
and especially this thread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1841697
These discuss the intricacies your dealing with......not so much the u-joint issue but the rest of it.
These multipage threads on the subject may be why not many posted replies in your thread....
See this thread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1846086
and especially this thread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1841697
These discuss the intricacies your dealing with......not so much the u-joint issue but the rest of it.
These multipage threads on the subject may be why not many posted replies in your thread....
Last edited by jhammons01; Nov 11, 2007 at 02:00 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 139
From: Vail AZ
Sorry to be a day late.....
See this thread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1846086
and especially this thread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1841697
These discuss the intricacies your dealing with......not so much the u-joint issue but the rest of it.
These multipage threads on the subject may be why not many posted replies in your thread....
See this thread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1846086
and especially this thread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1841697
These discuss the intricacies your dealing with......not so much the u-joint issue but the rest of it.
These multipage threads on the subject may be why not many posted replies in your thread....
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 139
From: Vail AZ
I used my hydraulic press to replace the first U-joint. After it went in very easily I used a plastic hammer the replace the other three.
